After running orange and chrome boxes with various coils for decades, I decided to try this weird Ford TFI coil+HEI module+MP distributor setup on my mule 440 in the C body (474 purple shaft, performer, 3310, hp manifolds).

The mule 440 is a re-ring, cheap std bore thing...I haven't driven it 50 miles on the new rings... I usually use old spark plugs for break in....true to form, The spark plugs in it are nasty old ones from circa 1999.

Prior ignition was a chrome box with a blaster 2, which I know is not an optimum combo, but long lived for sure. I've put alot of miles on it with other engines, and even in one other car (my beloved 78 fury sport suburban, may she RIP).

I kind of sloppily threw it together last night, and fired it up this morning.

First impressions:
It seems to work surprisingly great...fires up quicker than the other ignition, and throttle response seems better. It almost acts torquier if that is even a word.

I'm going to test drive it tonight and if I like it, new plugs with a slightly wider gap, and prettier looking wiring instead of the rats nest of tie wraps I've got currently.

Just wondered if anyone else here has given it a shot, what your impressions are, etc etc........

I am glad you are trying out some new ignition systems rather than just sticking with the old Mopar transistor systems....I have used them, too both the Orange and Chrome boxes with OK results, but I know there are better options.

I used a Mallory dual point in my 440 race car...30+ years ago. I used a CD system 45 years ago in my '71 Valiant Scamp with the /6 and had good results and I used a Mallory CD system in my '87 Ram 318 and it is still running great. My newest race toy is using the GM HEI system mounted to the bottom of the OEM 440 distributor and I am using a Pertronix coil that I got from Summit. Most of my racing friends are using MSD stuff and I have too, but I like to experiment and I am cheap.

I like the MSD in my B body, and will be working on that more soon.

The MSD is really what started this.

To my way of thinking, the ballast is a crutch to prevent the oil filled canister coil and the ecu from overheating, because the components can't take 13+ volts....If we use more robust components, we get around that issue.

Even the chrysler igniton always seems to run better with the ballast resistor bypassed....temporarily... Might not be noticeable in terms of dragstrip performance, but very noticeable in starting/normal driving.

I think Dog recommended a coil (E coil?) to me from a 1990 furd Taurus, said it was a real good one & is dirt cheap in the yards. I would use it with an HEI module/std 70's Mopar electronic dist.

I put one on my 67 Coronet (using the MP distributor) I had and it was an improvement over the orange box, especially hot starts. I used a coil off of a mid 90's 4.3 Astro van (nice flat mount). Use junkyard coils and HEI modules if you can, the parts store stuff is junk and doesn't last. I think DUI makes a good HEI module if you want to buy a new one, but for coils, I'd stick to the junkyards

'91 Ford F150 302 V8 coil has worked great on last 3 builds using MSD 6 boxes; fires off immediately, runs cleanly, and you can mount it in any orientation you need. I also use the matching pigtail. Autozone sells both. Bypassed ballast resistor on all 3 cars as MSD recommends, using a jumper wire. Distributors were either MP (re-curved) or FBO with their advance plate, which I now prefer.

The coil I'm using is a 9 dollar special, the cheapest one rockauto sells for a '90 F150 with a 351. For the module I paid 20 instead of 8, and got a standard motor products one. I haven't got the coil connector yet, but if this continues, that's next. I just have spade terminals crammed on there.

Can't believe how much quicker it starts.

Changed spark plugs last night but haven't fired it again yet. From the short drive I took yesterday it seems to want something different for idle mixture now. Will mess with it and see.

Zippy is that an E coil?

Yep it is. A big heavy epoxy impregnated black plastic thing.

thank you!

recurving is worth the time & the FBO $22 plate is a part of that & the best deal going by far (to limit your total).

Yup, Robert. In my case the good re-curving guy is a 3-hour round trip, twice. The FBO plate is brilliant.
The guy who put me onto the F150 coil was TechWest, when they rebuilt an MSD6 for me. Highly recommended outfit, very reasonable.

You can recurve it yourself & do a much better job than he (or anyone else) can if they are just setting the curve to a set curve for your eng specs (they can get close but not near spot on). set your initial with the "vac gauge method" then set the total to a total for your eng with the plate (initial+slots) SB is 35, then toss the heavy spring & sub in a mr gasket/transdapt/mopar light spring in its place for a start & mix/match so you are just under the pinging point @ WOT up thru the gears on your hottest/driest day then plug in the can to ported & adj it with a 3/32 allen wrench also staying just under the pinging point in everyday driving conditions under varying load/RPM conditions. check rotor phasing/reduce rotor clearance to .015"/reduce lower shaft axial play to .005. EDIT I ordered that coil (CFD478) last night, not sure how much is there for $16.xx to my door but I will see & if it worked for you it will work for me.

I used a GM coil and module from an early 90's truck. I gutted an old Mopar ECU and put the GM module inside it and kept the wiring to it. It looks all stock except for the coil. I widened the gap on the plugs to .045. It starts WAAY easier after its sat for months..

Was able to lean the idle mixture a bit.

It's no MSD, but noticeably better.

Hers what the spark looks like:
https://youtu.be/3iYv4H26SRs

that does look healthy, I have an OE black '75 chebby HEI module that I will use with the std 70's electronic dist

Speaking of that the Jacobs ign bible (you'd think they would know their stuff) says a smaller (than the .035 std) can give more power (& mileage iirc) but I would surely think a larger gap producing a larger spark kernel would light it off easier/let it reach full combustion sooner, (requiring less timing). it is a good manual but is about 80% on points as opposed to electronic igns.

how is this hei module wired into a stock mopar electronic dist wiring?

the (B) & (C) terminals on one end, the (B) goes to switched 12V. the (C) goes to coil neg primary. The (w) & (G) on the other end go to dist pickup, I forget which polarity. At the ballast, tie the blue and brown (switched 12V) together & run it also to the coil positive primary terminal. Module quality varies greatly, an OE one is good & MAYBE an aftermarket one (no exp there).

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/hei-in-mopar-ecu-casing.252705/

Here is where i learned how to do it. I used the newer 7 pin module on mine..