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#2272034 - 03/18/17 08:28 PM Can some one verify original finish on 68 B'cuda front end?
mopar346 Offline
Let me tell ya about fat chicks!

Registered: 07/05/07
Posts: 11671
Loc: Florida
Upper control arms black dipped
Lower control arms bare cosmoline dipped
Torsion bars black dipped
Adjuster bolt and bridge black phosphate
Upper control arm eccentric bolts and washers black phosphate
Spindles bare cast
Disc backing plates galvanized
Disc bare cast
Calipers bare cast
Sway bar and brackets black
Links natural
Drag link bare cast
Tie rod ends bare
Tie rod sleeves black (not sure paint or phosphate)
Pitman & idler bare cast
Strut rods bare steel
Strut rod washers galvanized
Strut rod, lower control arm bushing pin and tie rod nuts black phosphate
Power steering gear box black


What did I forget and what did I get wrong, Hamtramck car.

Thanks in advance, Kevin
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#2272134 - 03/19/17 12:15 AM Re: Can some one verify original finish on 68 B'cuda front end? [Re: mopar346]
kentj340 Offline
pro stock

Registered: 03/04/11
Posts: 1253
Loc: Houston
I have a one owner '69.

My upper control arms were bare. I cleaned with Evapo-Rust. For high humidity like here and FL, brush on Rust Cure or similar phosphoric acid solution, scrub with green Scotch Brite to remove black rust and other discoloration left by Evapo-Rust. Wipe off within minutes after scrubbing. Dry 1-2 days. The appearance should be very close to original stamped HRPO sheet steel. Apply RPM.

After awhile, if any rust re-appears re-apply phosphoric acid, scrub and re-wax.

Lower control arms: you can use Resto-Rick's cosmoline in a rattle can. Be sure to catch all drips - you can combine leftovers 50-50, more or less, with mineral spirits until the color doesn't show much and apply to UCAs and other bare stuff about once/year, but not on fresh wax.

Torsion bar adjusting bolt is clear zinc plated. Its swivel is phosphated.

Spindles, drag link, tie rod ends, Pitman and idler, and strut rods were drop forged, not cast. Forgings are hot worked in dies while red or yellow hot and end up with dark mill scale, a non-red iron oxide, which gives a blue-black color when new. Check out the color of fresh forgings on new suspension parts. You can get close to this color with gun bluing. Or if you are using new parts on your car, leave them as is. Parts of forgings were machined, and those parts should be bare metal. Use the Google custom search feature at the top of this page to find discussions on using gun bluing on restoration parts. After bluing, use RPM. I don't think every forging was the exact same color, so variation would be a good thing. Follow up with RPM or dilute cosmoline.

Sway bar links and washers were phosphated.

Sway bar and brackets were either dipped or sprayed with black enamel. The flexing of the bar in normal use causes the paint adhesion to fail, so a remedy might be to spray with plastic bumper additive to make the paint flex too.

Strut rod large front washers were clear zinc plated.

I too am not sure about whether original black tie rod sleeves were painted or phosphated. Anyone know?



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#2272811 - 03/20/17 05:56 AM Re: Can some one verify original finish on 68 B'cuda front end? [Re: mopar346]
mopar346 Offline
Let me tell ya about fat chicks!

Registered: 07/05/07
Posts: 11671
Loc: Florida
Thank you, good info, never thought of the gun blueing.
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#2273436 - 03/20/17 11:11 PM Re: Can some one verify original finish on 68 B'cuda front end? [Re: mopar346]
Crycho Offline
super stock

Registered: 10/07/03
Posts: 1002
Loc: klienburg, ONT
shoot me your email I can send you some pics
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#2273512 - 03/21/17 05:48 AM Re: Can some one verify original finish on 68 B'cuda front end? [Re: mopar346]
mopar346 Offline
Let me tell ya about fat chicks!

Registered: 07/05/07
Posts: 11671
Loc: Florida
I sent you a PM.

Thanks
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