What curve kit/springs are you running to get full advance early by 2500/3000 or so? I just have the small factory spring left in there and I suspect its not strong enough.

It does have the fbo limiter plate.

In the past I think we used a kit from Mopar which I don't think they sell anymore.

I run these now:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-925b

They are from Mr. Gasket.

I use both of the Mr. Gasket 925 B springs on all my Mopar motors, street or strip
I weld up the advance slots to limit the total amount of mechanical advance on the early non adjustable distributors so I can have between 14 to 18 BTDC at idle and no more than 34 to 36 total timing revved up above 2500 RPM on the B/RB and street Hemi motors

super lite springs just make a mess the only way to fly is use the FBO slotted plate which is IMO the BEST Mopar part on the market--you drop it in --on the right set of slots and BINGO you get that 15-18 degrees at idle so cool happy engine no matter the cam and it limits the mechanical advance just like welding up the slots--crazy lite springs are often overcome by idle RPM and thus the idle will "HUNT" around up and down RPM - wise causing a big PIA
Nobody on earth understands stock distributors better than Rick Erenburg--his written "teachings" are your path to happiness but not without that cheapo DREAM part the FBO plate
Look it up--buy one--live in happiness with a stock junk distributor
anybody still welding slots is just uninformed and needs some of those plates--I sleep with one under my pillow LOL

you dont have to weld up the plate anymore...Just use this...

http://www.4secondsflat.com/Mopar%20Mechanical%20timing%20limiter%20plate.htm

Instructions..

http://www.4secondsflat.com/J685S%20instructions.htm

thanks

Gents, per my first post I already have the fbo plate. I need springs to control the advance RATE. My single small spring isn't strong enough to pull the weights back in after revving.

here's a chart that may help. the crane spring kit is no longer available but no big deal. EDIT the weight holes/pins are cleaned, no sticking?

After seeing Don screw a local nice guy racer over severely through his own incompetence I won't buy anything from him, unless there are no other choices and I'm dying
BTW, using a set of springs that has the advance all in by 600 RPM prevents hunting
Better than locking in the advance on the distributors

This may be obvious, but the instructions show installation on a vacuum distributor. I have a tach drive unit with no vacuum. They are the same, right?

Thanks!

But that will require a very light spring and I can see a problem with the weights sticking in the advanced position.

I would lean toward yes since the FBO plate sits on the weight pins/under the cam plate & I would think both types would have similar weight advance systems there. if you have a "regular" dist handy you could eyeball that area & likely confirm it.

I have never been able to get the advance to return with springs that light. Personally, I like to have the advance all in as soon as I can while maintaining stable idle timing. Usually all-in around 1,600 or so. Some hardware stores have a selection of micro springs. I use those in combo with a stretched (weakened) stock small spring.

And you can also drill holes in the weights to lighten them if the advance comes in a little earlier than desired. Trial and error and testing, testing, testing.

I Always used the stock dist, one light spring to bring it back to zero for easy starting. Once started it goes full advance ( timing light on balancer at 36) engine response is great when full advanced at 650 rpm. Ran stock factory dist to 7500 never one problem, at no cost. Ain't as pretty as an MSD but I didn't run show cars.

Get that heavy grease out the factory uses inside the rotor stem

Do you drive on the street with full advance, or strip-only? What's the rest of your combo?

Six different cars and seven different engines, from max wedge to Hemi, all race cars, I don't have a race engine on the street, haven't had one on the street since 1974. Street "driving" needs a whole different setup, basicly because of the lack of decent fuel. If there was still 260 gas I'd run full advance

I do the same. I clean up a stock electronic distributor and use white lithium grease on the weights and 925-B springs. It starts easy yet acts like a locked out distributor at 36° total when running. The distributor triggers a hidden MSD 6AL with an adjustable rev limit. Usually set it at 6400 rpm. Runs and drives great with this setup! I do use 91 octane no ethanol but it will run on E-10 lower octane with this same setup. I have to pull a couple of degrees for crappy gas.

I had 2 factory light springs from a basic elec dizzy. All in by 2300 IIRC...the Mr. G springs were WAY too light. all in by 1500...

my next step was going to be drilling out the weights