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Re: 37 Dodge PU - Change in Direction [Re: Mike P] #2088887
06/09/16 09:11 AM
06/09/16 09:11 AM
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moparx Offline
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good progress to be sure mike ! when you first mentioned your radiator, the first thing that popped into my mind was a mustang unit. i think you will be good with the open hood sides provided you use an OEM electric unit that will pull a ton of air, such as a taurus or t-bird setup with a 3.8[?] engine or similar. make sure your electrical system is really up to the task, as these fans take a huge amperage at startup. above all, don't use a generic aftermarket fan. these things don't pull anywhere close to the advertised cfm of air they claim, and i have seen almost all in use at one time or other. the problem with using a mechanical fan is usually, the engine is mounted low in the chassis, which makes the pump driven fan also low, positioning it low on the incoming water from the top neck not cooling until the water is halfway through the core. you may not have this problem depending on the way the mustang radiator is mounted. if a guy runs a big diameter fan, it's possible to have interference with the radiator support or the front crossmember, depending where the engine is positioned. i like the heater choice ! what core application did you end up using ? and finally, the dodge pickups in the 60-80 time frame used the type heater valve you were seeking. i still see these occasionally at the swaps new, and pick 'em up for only a couple bucks. sometimes you can find the "fitzall" brand of controls as well for a buck or two.
beer

Re: 37 Dodge PU - Change in Direction [Re: Mike P] #2088912
06/09/16 10:27 AM
06/09/16 10:27 AM
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I know what you mean about the difference in air flow between t5he aftermarket electric fans and the factory units (although I’ve gotten by with the aftermarket ones in the past). The biggest potential issue with the factory units is how thick they are and I’m a bit limited on the room between the engine and radiator.

Now that I have the radiator in hand I’ve been able to take a few more measurements and it looks like I’ll be able to go with my first choice which will be a mechanical (flex) fan. My engine sits relatively high and there room for vertical movement to center the radiator on the fan. One nice thing about using the Mustang radiator is that is set up for the factory fan shroud which are available new and relatively inexpensive (I’ll be ordering one later this morning). I really like going this route if I can as it is a bit more 60s era correct. I figure that a light coat of black paint on the engine side on the radiator and at a glance even the aluminum radiator won’t be to noticeable.

The heater core turns out to be from a KIA Sportage. The valves are available new from a couple of companies and my cost on it was well under $10.

Now that I’m going to be waiting on the fan shroud for a couple of days, I guess I’ll get started on doing the wiring on the nose.


1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold
1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold
1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears)
Re: 37 Dodge PU - Change in Direction [Re: Mike P] #2089836
06/10/16 10:16 PM
06/10/16 10:16 PM
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I got the shroud ordered, and while I was waiting on that to get here I went ahead and got the grill shell wired. I’ve always enjoyed building my own harness. It’s probably not a whole lot cheaper than buying a ready made harness but like I said I enjoy doing it. Of course when I checked my box of terminals I needed to restock that and I only had about half of the colors and gauges of wire I needed.

I was actually planning on using the headlights that were on the truck but my luck was holding true and it turns out they were 6 volt. Knowing that the truck is going to be taken apart for paint and body at some point I decided to go ahead and use plugs for everything so the harness won’t have to be cut and spliced back together to get the lights out.



The harness itself was fairly simple (headlight, turn signals, parking lights and horn) and really didn’t take that long to build. I terminated the harness with a 6 circuit plug just a little bit past the grill shell so that if I ever need to take the grill shell out it’s just unplug the one plug.



1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold
1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold
1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears)
Re: 37 Dodge PU - Change in Direction [Re: Mike P] #2095234
06/20/16 09:24 PM
06/20/16 09:24 PM
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The radiator and fan shroud got in so I spent the last few days getting the cooling system done.







I was pleasantly surprised when the shroud came in to find out it was metal (I was pretty much expecting fiberglass). It fit the radiator well and except for having about a 1 ½” gap at the top (which was easily remedied) couldn’t have been better for the project.




I got the grill out and was working at a pretty good clip on Saturday afternoon.




Then the electrical substation up the road decided to go out. It was 103 degrees outside when the lights and coolers went down. Fortunately the last time the power went out for any length of time a couple of years ago I got around and wired my generators in. This time it was just hook up a battery to the generator throw a couple of switches and I had power again. My generator is enough to power the house, but a too light for the welder and compressor, so I just kicked back in the house for the next 14 hours until the power came back on.

The radiator and shroud is a tight fit in the grill shell, but it does fit, along with the transmission cooler.






It would have gone a bit easier and (and would be a bit easy to service if I have to in the future) if I had set the engine back a couple of inches further or used the short BB Chevy water pump instead of the long one, but it is what it is. I’ve got enough room to get to everything and I’m very happy with the depth of the fan in the shroud.




There is a lot of room between the top of the radiator and the grill shell (that I wish I could have found a taller radiator to fill). When I get some time I will probably find or build an overflow tank to fit up there.




I’ll probably get around and order the controller for the transmission later this week so I can go ahead and do the wiring next.


1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold
1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold
1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears)
Re: 37 Dodge PU - Change in Direction [Re: Mike P] #2095507
06/21/16 09:49 AM
06/21/16 09:49 AM
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moparx Offline
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nice job on the radiator install ! up you may want to consider a way to panel off the area above the radiator to the top of the grille shell similar to the way the bottom of the shell meets the bottom of the radiator. this way, a lot more air flow will be forced through the radiator core instead of being "washed over" and bypassing the radiator altogether. i believe this would help cooling immensely, and be a big assist to the small confines of the grille shell width wise.
beer

Re: 37 Dodge PU - Change in Direction [Re: Mike P] #2095510
06/21/16 09:54 AM
06/21/16 09:54 AM
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I agree Moparx, I've been kind of thinking on how that could be incorporated into the overflow tank.


1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold
1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold
1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears)
Re: 37 Dodge PU - Change in Direction [Re: Mike P] #2095519
06/21/16 10:10 AM
06/21/16 10:10 AM
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mike, you said it was "only" 103* when you lost electricity. i thought you guys were supposed to get around 120 ? keep cool for sure ! my problems dictate i work early in the morning or stay up all night, and my shop only has a couple of box fans. it has been around 80-85 here lately, and i'm just about dying. what you guys are going through now would be the end of me for sure ! what makes me mad is i really like the heat. i'm not sure what i'm going to do this year for carlisle. the docs say i'm getting a little worse. and to think i worked 42 years in a machine shop that hit 110 regularly during the summer months.
beer

Re: 37 Dodge PU - Change in Direction [Re: Mike P] #2095638
06/21/16 02:06 PM
06/21/16 02:06 PM
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"...... "only" 103*....."

It's early in the year yet grin

Actually I south of both Phoenix and Tucson and at 4500 ft so it's usually a bit cooler down here (although it's not all that unusual to see 110 here on occasion). This old 37 Dodge will be the first one I've built for myself in the last 30 years that won't have AC in it.

Every time I start thinking I have it bad, I just remember growing up in an old farm house with no AC and then baling hay in the summertime when it was in the high 90s with humidity in the 80% range.


1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold
1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold
1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears)
Re: 37 Dodge PU - Change in Direction [Re: Mike P] #2097629
06/24/16 11:02 PM
06/24/16 11:02 PM
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With the cooling system done, I got started on my electrical a couple of days ago. I'm going to be controlling the 46RH with a Compushift mini and pretty quickly figured out that that I needed to have the unit on hand so I could incorporate that wiring into the harness I’m building and figure out exactly where to mount the controller. I got that ordered yesterday and it should be here next week.

I also pulled the trigger on an Autometer electronic speedometer as long as I had the card out. When I initially set the dash up a few years ago I bought a mechanical speedometer……I could still run a cable and use that, but I was running into problems finding the recommend driven gear for the 4.56s (and knowing that the recommended one would probably still be a tooth or two off to actually get the speedometer to read correctly). The electronic speedometer I put in the ram 50 kind of spoiled as far as the ease of calibrating it by just pushing a button.

I’ve got the components outside the cab installed (lights, horn, senders, relays etc). With that done and waiting on the rest speedometer and controller to come in, I’ve been plugging away at some of the wiring. The work bench currently looks like a bomb went off, but I got a couple of minor changes made to the fuse box to make it compatible with the Chevy turn signal switch in the steering column and all the wires labeled. I also got some of the wiring on the turn signal plug done.



I decided a while back that I would mount the fuse box, ignition box and transmission controller inside the glove box to make it more convenient. There was no glove box liner in the 37 when I bought it but surprisingly they are being reproduced. The original style glove box liners are extremely deep however and they wouldn’t clear the heater I installed. My solution is to make a liner out of some old stainless I had left over from doing the floor.



Hopefully I’ll have the liner built this weekend and at least some more of the wiring done.


1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold
1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold
1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears)
Re: 37 Dodge PU - Change in Direction [Re: Mike P] #2103937
07/04/16 10:14 PM
07/04/16 10:14 PM
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I've got to go in for some surgery on my arm this week so I spent the last couple of days getting most of the wiring taken care. Knowing that I’ll be taking the truck completely apart at some point I made it so the wiring looms could be unplugged for easy removal and reinstall. Having just 2 plugs to undo to get the gauge cluster out will be especially nice.




I ordered the Compushift mini to control the lockup and overdrive on the 46RH. The electronic speedometer also came in……cause you know what’s a few more wires. rolleyes




Actually the hookup on the Compushift was pretty straight forward. The only minor issue I had was getting the three pin plug that goes into transmission to go in. When I contacted the company I was told the correct plug is no longer available and they supply a GM plug (I did some checking for the correct plug and couldn’t find a source either…… and my buddy at the tranny shop didn’t have one and couldn’t source one for me either). Anyway I finally wiggled it just right and it did go in.

The Compushift also uses a throttle position sensor (in my case cable operated). I was able to find room under the dash to mount that and connect the cable to the gas pedal instead if adding one more thing to the carburetor linkage.

In the back of my mind I figured this one would be pretty simple to wire (and relatively speaking I guess it was). Jut the handful of circuits I needed to run still ending up being a pretty good size pile of wires by the time I got everything pulled into the cab.




The glove box I built turned out to be quite bit shallower that I had planned in order to clear the heater. There was still enough room to mount the ignition control box in it but I elected to mount that on the inside of the firewall up under the dash (it’s still relatively easy to get to). At least getting to the fuses and the control box for the Compushift will be a snap.




I’ve still got to get the fuel pumps mounted (the wiring is already there and switch installed) and hook up the alternator and ignition but that’s pretty much just 4 or 5 wires that are already run.


.


1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold
1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold
1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears)
Re: 37 Dodge PU - Change in Direction [Re: Mike P] #2120406
07/29/16 08:38 AM
07/29/16 08:38 AM
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My arm is healing but not quite to the point where I can crawl under the truck to run the cooler, fuel and brake lines so I’m getting some of the other things taken care of. I did find a source for headliner and interior panels and I’ll be ordering those in the near future. In the mean time I figured I’d at least get the stereo mounted. There is not any real good place to mount the unit in the dash (a previous owner had mounted one in the glove box door at some point…..at least he didn’t butcher the dash but I still need to find a new door). Anyway in keeping with the late 60s early70s build theme I found a shaft mount AM/FM/Cassette player with analog tuning. I had bought some overhead consoles 25 years ago when I was going thru my Ford Truck phase and had one left over so I used that to mount the radio in the roof. It’s not my first choice, but it shouldn’t look too bad once I get the headliner in it. While finding a place to hang the radio was a bit of a challenge, finding places for speakers was pretty easy and when all was said and done I installed a total of 6 throughout the cab. It doesn’t have the sound of some of the higher end systems I’ve installed in my other vehicles but at least I’ll be able to hear it over the exhaust.





I also finished up getting the keg gas tank ready to install. I had already built the cradle for it and installed the fitting for lines and gas cap but still needed to make hold down straps and get a sender for it. Rather than use a sender with a swing arm (that would have put the float directly under fill hole) I ordered a vertical float sender.



Everything was pretty straight forward. Once I get it back in the bed of the truck I’ll drill holes thru the cradle and bed and run the bolts thru the bed cross-members. When I take the truck apart for paint and body I’ll purge the tank and send it and cradle out for powder coating but for now this is good enough.




It also gives me an excuse to use an old decal I had. smile




.


1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold
1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold
1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears)
Re: 37 Dodge PU [Re: Mike P] #2137697
08/21/16 09:28 AM
08/21/16 09:28 AM
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In spite of having a bit of down time due to some stuff I had done at the VA hospital I got a couple more things checked off the to do list.

The cooler lines for the transmission lines were run and I went thru the rear brakes and got the emergency brakes figured out and hooked up.

I wanted to get the transmission and cooling system filled along with checking the power steering so I hooked up some temporary battery cables and fuel lines and fired it off. Every thing functions as it should and no leaks up





I still have the the front suspensions, service brakes and fuel system done but it's getting closer.


1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold
1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold
1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears)
Re: 37 Dodge PU [Re: Mike P] #2239677
01/23/17 09:25 AM
01/23/17 09:25 AM
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Not a lot going on with the 37 right now. I got the parts in to redo the front suspension and upgrade to bigger front disc brakes, but then had to go back to the mid west to take care of mom for a bit.

One of the projects I work on when I’m back there is going thru the old family pictures. This trip I came across this one which I had never seen before…….it's my Granddads truck that he used for his barber supply company (the picture is from around 1940).



I can’t see enough detail in the grill to know specifically what year it is but it is definitely a 36-38 Dodge Humpback. With the route he serviced he would have put a ton of miles on this old girl.


1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold
1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold
1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears)
Re: 37 Dodge PU - Change in Direction [Re: Mike P] #2263582
03/05/17 10:43 AM
03/05/17 10:43 AM
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Now that it’s warming up a bit I’m back on the 37 again. The Mustang II front end was already installed when I bought the 37. The previous owner had used a burned up Mustang II as a donor and transferred the suspension components….. worn out ball joints, bushings, calipers, springs and all to the truck.



I kept putting off rebuilding the front suspension using the excuse that I wanted the full weight (engine, transmission etc ) on the front end so I could get the correct front springs in it. Anyway I’ve run out of excuses so it’s time to rebuild the suspension. Rebuilding control arms is not my favorite job by any stretch of the imagination but being basically cheap and having the time and tools I ordered bushings and ball joints rather than a new set of control arms.

My luck held true to form. One of the upper control turned out to be bent. Of course I didn’t pick up on that until after I had spent an hour knocking the ball joint and bushings out of it.



I had another set of used control arms so other than wasting time on the junk one I'm not out anything and the arms are ready to go back on.




Today will probably be spent getting the holes cut in the upper spring pockets so I can get the ride height adjusters installed.



Once that’s all done I’ll be able to get it back together and do the brake conversion. I’m going from the 9” rotors to 11” which should finish up what I need to do on the front suspension.



1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold
1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold
1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears)
Re: 37 Dodge PU - Change in Direction [Re: Mike P] #2267600
03/11/17 07:40 PM
03/11/17 07:40 PM
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I worked on the front suspension on and off this week. Installing the ride height adjusters was pretty straight forward. My hole saws center with a ¼” drill bit so the original hole for the shock stud was too big.




The simple fix for that was to tack weld an appropriate size washer to the hole.




Then cut the hole for the adjuster.






Drill the holes for the mounting screws and bolt the adjusters in.




I put the new caliper brackets on while the spindles were off then bolted everything together, put the rotors on and checked ride height.





Then it was take it back apart and cut a coil off the new springs and put it back together again and recheck the ride height. Removing the one coil seemed to do the trick so everything was tightened down and the alignment was roughed in (it will be going to a friend’s alignment shop after the fuel and brake lines are run).







I really figured I’d get started on the brake lines next so I could at least move the truck around under its own power but I think that will be moved down one place on the to do list. A couple of weeks ago I ordered the interior panels for the truck figuring that I’d get around to installing them at some point after the truck was drivable. The kit includes the headliner, back panels, door and kick panels and are ABS plastic reproductions of the original cardboard pieces. The problem is they take up so much room I don’t have a place to store them.






I guess I’ll spend next week getting them installed just to get them out of the way. I’m even debating sending the seat out now to get it upholstered (problem is I can’t decide what color so it may wait).


1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold
1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold
1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears)
Re: 37 Dodge PU - Change in Direction [Re: Mike P] #2267735
03/11/17 11:24 PM
03/11/17 11:24 PM
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Mesa, Arizona
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Cool build. You live out in AJ?


“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”

Abe Lincoln
Re: 37 Dodge PU - Change in Direction [Re: Mike P] #2267762
03/12/17 12:04 AM
03/12/17 12:04 AM
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I live south of Tucson down in the Sierra Vista Area.


1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold
1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold
1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears)
Re: 37 Dodge PU - Change in Direction [Re: Mike P] #2267806
03/12/17 01:11 AM
03/12/17 01:11 AM
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Posts: 16,117
Mesa, Arizona
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Originally Posted By Mike P
I live south of Tucson down in the Sierra Vista Area.



A true desert dweller


“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”

Abe Lincoln
Re: 37 Dodge PU - Change in Direction [Re: Mike P] #2270417
03/16/17 08:52 AM
03/16/17 08:52 AM
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The interior panels are in the truck and out of the way. The installation of the headliner would have been a bit easier with an extra set of hands but wasn't really too bad once I figured out how to hold temporarily it in place while I marked the holes I needed to drill for the overhead console.



It turned out the kick panels needed some work to get them to fit. Getting the first one correctly trimmed took some time as I was only taking out a bit at a time to make sure I didn't go overboard on the material removal. After I verified it would also fit the other side it was just mark what needed to be cut on the other panel and trim it down.




Once they were fit and the holes drilled for the retaining pins I was able to get the speaker holes marked and cut and finish up those.



The one area that I wasn't happy about was where the headliner and windshield post trim (part of the kick panel) meet (or actually don't meet). It probably wouldn't be too noticeable if I just painted the area black but cutting a couple pieces to fit out of the left over material from the speaker holes sounds like a good job for one of those days I'm bored.



The rear panels are like the originals and don't completely cover the back of the cab. I'm going to be using the original bench seat so that is not a problem for me. If I ever change over to bucket seats (not currently the plan) I would need to figure out something to cover the back of the cab.



I'm missing the window regulator for the driver's door and so far haven't had much luck finding one. I do have a pair of regulators from a 1940 Dodge truck I think I can make work if I have to (it will move where the window crank handle will go however). So not knowing where the window crank hole would need to be I just ordered the door panels without holes and for now just cut the one for the door handle.




Overall I'm pretty happy with the interior kit. In spite of a couple of issues the overall fit is pretty good and sure beats starting from scratch. For now I'm going to leave the panels as is. When it comes time to do the upholstery (after paint and body work) I have a few options;

1. Leave them as is (black)

2. Paint them a matching or contrasting color (I'm kind of leaning to a buckskin color at this point, but who knows what I'll end up doing). I've had good luck painting ABS interior panels with the SEM paints and this is what I will probably end up doing.

3. Upholster the panels and headliner.

Anyway that decision is in the future.....way too much other stuff to do before I'm at that point.


.


1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold
1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold
1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears)
Re: 37 Dodge PU - Change in Direction [Re: Mike P] #2270423
03/16/17 10:03 AM
03/16/17 10:03 AM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,237
north of coder
moparx Offline
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good job mike ! up
beer

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