I have had in my possession for probably 20 years a disk brake setup. I bought it a long time ago and I can hardly remember the details. It has new rotors, new calipers, new master cylinder new hoses, and new bearings - all still in the box. I also have a set of disk brake spindles and the brake shields as well as a used (but in great shape) distribution block. The rotors are 11" with a 5x4" bolt pattern (SBP).

I want to use these parts on my 66 Barracuda. It has 10" drums on the front and its a single reservoir. I do NOT want to convert it to the the large bolt pattern at this time as I don't want to deal with converting the rear end.

I'm making sure I have all the parts I need. And, it appears I have everything but I am not sure about the wheel hubs. There doesn't appear to be anything wrong with the ones on the drums now. But, should I replace them and if so, where can I get JUST the wheel hub assembly? Any ideas?

Also, if I don't replace the hubs, what's the best procedure for separating the existing wheel hubs from the drums?

Next, what else might I be missing in terms of parts? Do I need a proportioning valve?

Last, I am thinking I should probably replace the upper and lower ball joints and tie rods while I am at it - not been replaced since I've had it. Any suggestions on the best place to buy those parts?

Hubs for a 66 Cuda.

Junkyard or maybe someone has a stash somewhere of NOS ones you could pay thru the nose for.

I'd put new bearings in your hubs if they are ok and run that.

As for how to...

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109

they have the factory service manual available for free.

Proportioning valve, yes.

Thanks...I just looked over the factory service manual. It doesn't cover how to separate the hub from the drum. Heck, maybe I need to ask the question as to whether or not you can even do that and whether or not I can use them with my disk brake setup? I appears that they can at first glance. But, I'm not 100% and its not something I've done before.

Any ideas if that can be done?

Can you separate the drum from the hub?

not trying to be a dick here but

Yes, knowing how to do that is what would be called basic automotive knowledge. If you don't know how to do that part I would hope you have a knowledgeable friend handy to supervise the swap to disc brakes.

Since it's been 20+ years since my 65 Cuda had front drums I cannot remember if the drums are swaged on or not, I believe they are. Essentially, swaged on means a portion of the wheel stud is peened over to hold the drum in place if you look closely at the base of the stud where the splines are you will see the swaging. You have to cut the studs off flush to the drum and press the remains out. Some so called mechanics will tell you that you can just press the studs out without cutting the swage off. Doing so can ruin the hole the stud presses into and thereby the hub itself. Besides you will need new studs to install the discs anyway.

Have your shop replace the races in the hubs (1 on each side of the hub) & what Supercuda said, have them also remove the swedge to seperate the hubs. dont add a prop valve right now (it is alot of fabbing, avoid it if you can & likely not needed) , I had 76 A body (2.75) single bore discs on a 65 dart with 10" rear drums & NO prop/braking issues with the OE splitter that you have. here's my rotors (SBP & BBP) for upcoming projects. You have rotors that will fit those hubs?

RR, how did you address the single reservoir master cylinder?

When I converted my 65 Cuda to disc I used a later dual reservoir M/C and plumbing the brakes along with a prop valve wasn't real hard to do.

Thanks....its coming back to me now. I remember the swage and not to just knock it out. Its just been about 10-12 years since I had to do any brake work on my cars. I am quite capable of doing the work. I just want to make sure I do it right and don't mess it up. I figure a few dumb questions now will save me down the road.

I have a cut off wheel and can do it and then knock it out with my vise. I now remember replacing the studs back in the late 80's on another car by cutting and then using an impact socket and a vise. So, that should work. Thanks for jogging my memory.

The question still remains whether or not I can use the drum hub with the disc setup.

Can I use the drum brake hub with my disc brake setup? If so, then I shouldn't have to replace them - they were in good shape when I redid the bearings and brakes about 12 years ago. I've only put about 5-7K on the car since then.

I do not know if the drum and disc hub are the same. I never fooled with the early A body discs.

That site I linked to has the 66 parts manual on it too. I found a part number for the hub with disc.

I cannot find the listing for the drum hub nor a "disc hub" without the disc. So I duuno.

I will be switching to a dual reservoir set up. I already have the correct distribution block. I'll use all of the existing brake lines and add a new one for the additional reservoir. I expect I might have to replace the line to the block from the master cylinder.

I'll plan on the proportioning valve.

Yes I did the same, a truck 1&1/8 dual bowl MC with the plastic reservoir. I used a reducer bushing in the MC rear port to connect to the single OE 1/4 line which goes down to the splitter as normal & feeds the front discs then I ran a new 3/16 line from the MC front port down to the splitter area & unscrewed the rear line from the splitter & connected the new 3/16 line to it with a double female connector then plugged the open port in the splitter that the rear line was screwed into with a brass plug. Worked great & the rears would lockup first if I got on it but for a DD it worked awesome & I forgot to add that reportedly the prop valve delays the onset of front braking slightly till the rear shoes are making contact (??) but in my case front pad wear over time was not even noticeable.

There's an aftermarket package that uses the 10" drum spindle. That comes with its own hub. I beleive it uses standard disks.

For switching to a factory 4 piston caliper, you need the disc brake spindle. If your disks don't have hubs, you'll need them too.

As far as distribution block to go with a tandem master cylinder, there were several flavors. The earlier versions are used in conjunction with a seperate proportioning valve. The later ones combine the proportioning valve.

1967 Texas shaped prop valve shown here
http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/233/page06.htm

1971-2 Combined valve with block and switch shown here
http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/293/page10.htm

Either setup will work.

Remember your rear drums will still be the pre-69 flavor, so don't use the '69 and up bulletins for reference on those unless you change automatic adjusters and shoes to the '69 style.

One last tip. The "edge code" on the pads and shoes will roughly indicate the friction. Take a note of those in case you want to make adjustments or keep the same. DD is typical, EE is better, FF is good. These are broad ratings but they are to an SAE standard. Material will also effect how they feel at different temperatures.

I already have everything except the hubs (including the disk brake spindles) so I am not wanting to go aftermarket - unless you are suggesting I can buy the hubs only and use those from that kit?

Otherwise, I guess I'll have to go hunt down some used disk brake hubs.

Thanks for all the help.

The slight delay on the application of the fronts (holdoff) is more to ensure all four corners apply the brakes at the same time, not so much to reduce pad wear. Under light braking holdoff doesn't even apply.

"One last tip. The "edge code" on the pads and shoes will roughly indicate the friction. Take a note of those in case you want to make adjustments or keep the same. DD is typical, EE is better, FF is good. These are broad ratings but they are to an SAE standard."

Never heard that before, interesting.

I couldn't tell from your description so I wanted to cover both possibilities.

No hold off valve implemented on Chrysler's A-bodies with with fixed piston calipers. See the 1972 MTSC link above for the details.