OK, so being a mopar muscle car guy who has sold all of his cars, Im now trying to build a new home/ ranch and I am adding to that this pile of parts.

Its a 49 Studebaker short bed with a title. I bought a different truck last year, which I sold because it had no title. This pile was cheap but perfect for me because I have a running 1992 Dakota Magnum.

Im trying to learn so I have questions.

I want to use the Dakota firewall or at the very least the electronics in some fashion, the A.C which currently works ect. I know some conversions use the stock firewall and other use the newer vehicle.

My goal is a daily driver thats affordable. I plan on using this dakota 318 until there is some sort of issue.

I dont have a different trans or rear end but I would like to use some nice new Torque thrust rims and Tires that I already own. these are 5 x 4.5. So I think I can change things up front for that but may need a new rear end for the rims as these are six lug.

Also Im not looking for air bags or crazy low, but I will want it lower.

Im also looking for the best way to cut and shorten the frame.


This will be a lengthy project but it will stay relatively inexpensive.

Looking for advise or any foreseeable issues.

Dave

You can change from the 6 bolt wheels to 5 bolt simply by changing the front brake rotors to a 1990 or older 5 lug. The Dakota 5 lug is 5 on 4 1/2" pattern. On the rear, you need to change the axle shafts (from the same size rear axle) and the rear brake drums to the 1990 parts, or change the entire axle assembly (Dakota 88-90 are all 5 lug).

How much do you need to shorten your frame? I took 7" out of mine between the rear cab mount and the fuel tank brackets. Or the factory had a joint behind the cab where the boxed front and the C channel rear are welded together. If you grind down the welds, you can slide the rear section into the boxed front section more, but you will probably have to shorten the rear frame section however much you need to shorten the wheel base.

The Dakota firewall has a vent box on top of the firewall where the fresh air vent draws fresh air, it also houses the windshield wiper arms, pivots, and motor. The likely hood is you will need to narrow the Dakota firewall. If you do, you will need to reconstruct the vent box (originally it attaches to the sides), and you may have to modify the right end of the heater box.

On my 48 Plymouth, I used the Dakota floor pan and the firewall up to the bottom of the vent box, and trimmed the sides until the 48 body dropped down on the floor. The I built new rockers for the floor pan and attached the 48 body to the new rockers. Then I built a new vent box above the firewall to pull the fresh air in, and house the wiper gear. I attached the 48 cowl to the new vent box. Where you attach the body (and the box sides)will determine how low the truck will appear. Its easier to lower the body over the frame then it is to mess with the suspension to lower the truck. Old trucks usually have a lot of room above your head. Really depends on how low you really want to go.

I was able to use the Dakota seat (in its original position), seat belts (moving only the outer most holes), the heater box (only modifying the rec air part of the heater box), the wipers (with modifications), the Dakota throttle & gas pedal, and all the Dakota wiring and computer. I even used the steel box (bed) floor and braces (after modifying the front and rear mounting locations). I do have some pictures of a lot of this stuff. Gene

Poorboy, any links to pics of your project? Thx for the info.

Dave

gene did an AMAZING job on his coupe using the dak setup and parts ! he started out with a body that most would have sent to the shredder years ago ! your body looks really nice, and i always liked those study trucks. here is a pic of my buddy's truck when it was almost ready for the road a couple of years ago. he is a good fabricator, and did all but the upholstery. i have known this guy since 1968 when he was my foreman at the body shop i worked at. i really don't like his wheel and tire choice, but the rest of the truck is very nicely done.

Very nice.

Im picking up this bed and fenders from another guy. Better condition.

Since I'm a computer dummy, I did av reply on my old build post to bring it up to the top. I do have some additional pictures if you really want to see them, and now we can load more then 1 picture per post! Gene

Well, just an update but I DID NOT get that truck. Guy said it was rust free, it was RUSTY and I want to start with a reasonably solid cab. I own a front clip and am buying the red short bed and fenders. One I find a cab and doors Im good so no hurry, I will just keep searching and study the threads on the Dakota conversion.

I would like to see any threads of the swaps that people have done if there are any?

Dane

The Dakota short box pickup and the Studebaker are both on 112" wheelbases.
Both have nearly identical dimensions. You can cut off the Dakota cab and box sides, leaving the cab floor, firewall and bed floor on the frame. Take the rusty floor and firewall out of the Stude, and drop the cab onto the Dakota floor. Cut the sides off a Stude short box and weld them to the Dakota floor. Fill in the gaps. My buddy does these swaps all the time and it is amazing how they work out.
I have a 50 Stude short box pickup and a Dakota short box pickup that are going to be combined this way.
Another friend did this exact thing to 2 54-56 Ford pickups and it was amazing how the floors and firewall mated up.