what I would do is with some made up jumper wires with alligator clips/specific terminals as needed I would jump from a 12V source like the batt stud on the starter relay to/thru the ballast to the coil/ECU (duplicate ALL of the ign1/ign2 circuits) & pull the ign2 wire when (if) it starts. this takes the wiring completely out of the picture & only leaves the hard components which most you have replaced then if we are good so far we can start to remove one jumper at a time & restart it to pin down which circuit has the open or intermittent connection.

Its a single its been replaced.

i did some testing with a tester,i have more spark goin to negative side of coil then positive side.which i have a very little spark on that side of coil on postive,without hotwire. when i run a hotwire from the battery post on the postive side to positive of coil i have all spark on that side and none on negative. should i have spark just on the positive side and none at negative? should have i the equal aumount on both sides? what could this problem be?

With (3) jumpers jump from the "batt" stud on the starter relay to: (1) blue/yellow terminal on the ECU pentastar connector (stick a thin/sharp pin into it) and (2) to the upstream (blue wire) end of the ballast and (3) and to the coil positive primary terminal. start it with the key & when (if) it starts then remove jumper #3. I'm assuming this is a 4 pin ECU??

Yah it is.

How come i have very weak spark on the positive side of coil? when i run a hotwire from the positive side to battery to positive of coil i have good spark goin to it.what could be bad causin very little spark to not producing continuous spark with out hotwire?

Anyone on here have a similiar problem?

You have a poor connection between the ign2 (crank) terminal on the ign switch and the coil (& maybe the ign1 "run" circuit also which is why when you bypass it with your jumper it starts. start with the bulkhead (a frequent culprit). Might be low voltage AT the ign switch (it has a connector which can be problematic but nothing like the bulkhead). A small metal bristle brush is good for the male ones and a spare male terminal for the female ones (the ones on both halves of the bulkhead). spray clean em when done. NAPA male ones are 725145 if you dont have any spare wiring/terminals laying around-99 cents ea.

Sounds like typical bad grounds.

Check battery ground to engine block and body.
Reason is, a small amount of resistance here (cable and connections) will create a large voltage drop from the block to negative battery terminal when the high current of cranking the engine goes through the cable.
Also, ground the ECU to the engine block.
With the bad grounds, the ECU will not sense the trigger voltage from the distributor.

Your sayin bulk head for the engine harness section?

Ok i do have ecm mounted to block.i have a wire goin from the inne fender where the ecm is goin to the end of engine on head.where else to check for grounds?

yes the bulkhead on the firewall that has the blue ign1 run and ign2 crank circuits.

Ok i replaced that harness it had new terminals on it.i can go back and if there is any corrosion on them etc.i have to agree that there is a poor connection and something isnt sending enough spark like you said in the previous post.

grab or make 3 jumpers & get it running (pull the one when it starts) then we can work to pin down which circuit has a bad connection & then pin down (further) where in that (particular) circuit the bad connection is.

You could pull the dist, and spin it by hand to see if you get a spark in both the start and run key positions, just disconnect the neutral safety wire from the start relay, or put trans in gear other than park or neutral so the starter does not spin when in the start key position.
If you get spark spinning the dist by hand in both positions, the problem is not the ignition or the wiring to it, but a problem with voltage drop when the starter load is applied.

If you don't get a spark spinning the dist by hand, then there is a problem in the wiring, dist pickup, or with the ECU.

^Excellent info^ EDIT & if you have another dist handy (even a /6), plug it in first & spin it for an easier start to this path.

i havent read all the posts but have you replaced the pickup coil?
i have had the spark at only key on and off syndrome and a new pickup coil cured it in a mopar and a ford.

I can try to replace the distributor again,i replaced it ounce.

What should the ohms be on the mangetic pick-up coil on the distributor?i did some testing with a ohms meter.

I found a burnt wire on distributor,took it back to autozone.goin with high performance distributor.probably will also bypass the factory electronic igination system.possibly with a msd box. the petronix igunitor type 2 or 3 good distributors?