The 4.7 in my '08 Dakota has the stupid lash adjuster ticking issue. I was considering replacing the adjusters and rocker arms when a friend suggested I just go with rebuilt heads. What few "performance heads" I've seen are spendy, so probably stick to stock. Anyone have any recommendations of where to get them or not get them from? Thanks!

I'd be looking for a worn cam lobe/ follower roller for the source of your noise rather than a bad lash adjuster. I've put a few cams in because of this issue. It is also sometimes the source of a random misfire as well.

These motors have oil supply issue especially after 60K. You probably do have some cam or follower issues because of the oiling. A resolution for this is changed the oil and use 1-2 qts of trans fluid. Many of the small oil passages become clogged or restricted. Then after replacing the used parts, add some zddp sparingly with each oil change. It does not take much to plate the metal parts and enhance their longevity. 6 cars with this issue and not one has returned with this problem.

Yeah, I knew that I was taking a chance with a 4.7 when I got it. I had heard from many people that they're prone to oiling issues if you're not diligent about changing the oil and using quality oil and filters on them. It had 141k on it when I got it nearly a year ago, 151k now. It took a couple of months before I started getting the clattering sound. Then I noticed how quickly the oil got black. I was changing the filter every 500 miles or so for a while. The last couple of months it's taken over 1500 miles before the oil starts to change color, so I think I'm gaining on it. It otherwise runs great! And I get a combined 17mpg rather easily with it.

But I have been concerned about excessive wear. When I was talking with a friend about it, he reminded me of advice I've given out to others before; If I open it up and find excessive wear on the cam or rockers, new heads would be the best option. So instead of buying some of the parts and hoping for the best, I think I want to just replace the heads. And a new water pump and timing chains since I'm in there. But I don't want to fall victim to some shadetree shop with a flashy website selling dressed up used parts.

You answered my thoughts. Prior to changing heads, etc., run 3 1000 mile oil changes with new filters and a qt. of trans fluid with each change. Open up the passages and clean out and scum before you change parts. Check with Clearwater Heads ,usually on ebay, they have good pricing and customer service. Also carry update parts/mods on their heads if available. If you check out Pennzoil or Quaker State extended mileage motor oil you will find they add friction modifiers to combat wear and are designed for old and newer style engines.

I have worked on a bazillion of these and asides from cracks in the heads have seen little reason to ever change a head. I would try the flushes and if that don't fix it a set of 16 lifters is very easy to do and has fixed valve train noise pretty much every time for me. If you are keeping it, a complete timng chain, tensioner and guide set is just over $100 on ebay and looks to be identicle parts to the $300 set at autozone and I have had no trouble with them falling apart or anything in the couple years I been useing them. I did 2 this week as I have one of the only shops in this one horse town who will touch em other than to just throw a used engine in.

Before taking it appart I would do a NAPA head gasket chemical test, don't bother with head gaskets unless they are bad, they usually only go bad as a result of an overheat.

For what it's worth chrysler said this was only a 150,000 mile engine when they released them.

A/MP: Thanks for the input. I'm thinking that this would be a good time to do the flushing, since the oil is staying clean much longer now. A final assault if you will. What would you recommend for the oils? I think the old Type F trans fluid was the highest detergent content, but I've not kept up on the newer blends. And I've been running 10w 30 or 40 depending upon ambient temps. But we're in a cold streak so I might go down to the 5W 20. Thoughts?

Dave: Are those timing chains a pain to do? This will be my first time digging into an OHC motor in many years. And in fact, I'm highly considering having my buddy do it. He has a good local repair shop. That way if something gets overlooked, it's not on me.

I did a fair amount of them when I worked at the Dodge dealer for 24 years. We had replaced a few heads under the powertrain warranty when valve seats came loose. Also would see some engines all sludged up real bad and of course they all said they changed their oil every 3000 miles as we recommended on that eng. But when replacing the chains it was nice to have the tool that holds all three chains in place on the idler gear in the block which is where the cam gear would normally be in a pushrod eng. We had the special tool in the tool kit the dealer gets for the 4.7 eng. I left the dealer in 2011 so its been a good 6 or more years since I replaced them but that one tool sticks in my mind as making the job easier. Maybe one of the guys who has done them lately will chime in on where they get the tool to hold the chains in place on the idler gear on what some call the dummy shaft. Ron

I don't have the tool, I put the idler gear in 1st, right side chain 2nd, then the right side cam gear, then the right side guides then the tensioner, then do the same on the left (drivers)side. If you only do one chain at a time there is no tool needed.