High numbers sell ragazines. Rag a zines.

Yeah I know.. everyone thinks that if I do that
I will end up with the same numbers.... NOT

Well a super rigid billet dry sump pan might be an option. This one has 1/2 inch thick rails to help tie the bottom end together. I'd also probably use a cross bolt conversion if your block isn't cross bolted to start with.

The low deck 512 that I have in my street car uses a 230 block that has been cross bolted. We also opened up the mains to the larger 440 bearing size. Here is a picture:

Andy is that a stock block? This is the first I have ever seen this on a stock block. how's it holding up for ya.?

Those look like Pro-Gram caps. The install of those requires cutting on the already weak main web supports. That's why they are not hugely popular.

If I was doing the OPs build, it would consist of a half fill 440 block, alum caps, center weighted crank, as light a bobweight as I could get.............and prayer

Yep, it is a 230 cold weather block with all the mods. Even has roller cam bearings. Not sure what to say about it holding up. The engine was built about 10 years ago but it doesn't have much run time on it. It is in my '65 Coronet which mostly just sits in the shop so it doesn't have many miles on it.

Even if I did drive it a ton I doubt I'd hurt the bottom end seeing how the engine has manifolds on it. Yep, cross bolted mains, roller cam bearings and manifolds - not exactly the best planned out combo........

bet it's a hoot to drive tho.

HAHAHA Dayum Andy, mad scientist stuff you do kills me. Paranoia of failure can make one do some ridiculous stuff at times.

Andy what kind of adapter you have on the oil pump? And do you make that or who does. Thanks

Says "AR Engineering" on it, so I'd say he made it.

Pretty safe bet eh Dwayne!
How are you my friend?

Don

That is a one of one custom part. It is basically an adapter for a remote filter and/or cooler but just without the internal 90 degree bends that all of the other adapters have.

I was going to sell it as a product but decided it was too expensive to build in qty so I scrapped it. I use it all the time though, especially on the dyno.

Who Makes that piece Andy? It's a beauty, I didn't see it on your site.

I am guessing that's made by Dailey Engineering, but could be wrong. That just looks life stuff he makes

I made the dry sump pan myself.

If the purpose of the girdle is to prevent the pan rail and caps from moving, mild steel of the same thickness is far better than any aluminum.

True, but I don't think I'd be able to pick up the pan if it was made from steel. It is already super heavy in aluminum.

I would start with a good center weighted, lightened to the max crank. I would stay with the small BB main bearing, and consider a small rod bearing like a 2.100. You can then get a fairly light custom rod to fit your combo. The center weight crank loads the main saddles more evenly, and I saw it eliminate cap walk on my cross bolted Megablock when I switched to one.
As far as the rest of the shortblock, definitely use a partial fill, and a girdle with steel main caps would be on my list. I would also sneak up on the tuneup, starting conservatively, and never look for that last hp.