The PCV ( or PVC if you are a plumber ) valve is a must if you are driving on the street regularly. Your oil will stay cleaner and there will be less sludge / acid build up in your engine. Small oil leaks will often disappear. There are a million to choose from at the parts store, and if you have made ANY engine modifications at all, trust me, none will apply. The best you can do to see if your system is working is to check for crank case vacuum at idle ( piece of paper over the breather hole in the opposite valve cover, etc ). It's a guess at best. Well "ME Wagner" has taken the guess work out of PCV valves with their fully adjustable valve. It's a little pricey, but it's a really slick piece and the machining quality is a work of art. It can be used in two modes - fixed orifice ( idle circuit only ) or dual flow ( idle and cruise ). Instructions make it easy to set up. Now, any time you make cam, carb, head, intake change, you can dial in your PCV accordingly. Part # DF-17. www.mewagner.com No, I don't work for the company. This is not a sales pitch. It's a tech tip.

$129 for a pcv valve...really?

You could probably buy, what...60 or so normal valves for that much money (or more...rockauto has various ones for a buck, so you could get around 130 of them)

I imagine with some homework and checking you could find some manufactures information on opening ratings of them to help choose one close to working well in a certain case.

Good luck with your homework.

If I needed a certain value one for an application, I sure would do some home work. I am not in need of one though at the time, a stock spec one works in my car now.

when those came out, i was slightly surprised at the price, but the couple of articles i have read about them, plus the company's web site info, have got me very interested. if not so much in the product, at least the concept. and as a retired machinist, it appears they are quality made as well. i can't say for sure i would stand in front of a lathe and bridgeport to "duplicate" this item[well, ok, steal this idea], the thought has crossed my mind. i did, after all, create a program to make a bunch of jets and metering rods for my thermoquads. that worked out very well ! [and no, i won't do it again, but the challenge was there, and the parts weren't] i am in no way looking to go into business. i have had enough of the "work world" and i have just too many projects of my own to complete. but just the challenge to make something instead of purchasing it sometimes is too hard to overcome. if i may ask, was it as easy to set up on your hot rod as the company claims ? do you have many miles on it to see if it "weeps" oil mist from the adjustment screws, or is heavy enough to slightly cause the same thing to happen to the valvecover grommet ? i can't remember your cam specs for your engine, but i would think the bigger the duration and overlap the cam would have, the more the engine would benefit from that style of pcv [or as you say, pvc] valve.

I can see a need/use for it, especially if working with a modified or odd ball engine.

The problem I found a couple of years ago when I set up a pretty heavily modified 283 is it’s not so much doing your home work but rather what is actually available for PVC valves. While many years ago there were a variety of valves available that were tailored to different engines, the aftermarket has pretty much taken a one size fits all approach. As the valves are all physically the same size/configuration on the outside, rather than have valves that are internally calibrated for the different engines they all use the same internals….in the case of Chevrolet calibrated for a 350. Yup they list the same valve for a 307 as they do for a 427.

I found this out while doing a Chevrolet, but I suspect you will find the same is going to also be true for Mopar and Ford engines. The adjustable valve IS a bit pricey, but if you are fighting idle or lean out issues and it traces back to the PCV valve it is a cure of a problem.

Moparx, Instructions are thorough, but a little tedious. They try to address all knowledge levels, so several pages are kinda basic. I have very few miles on it so I can't address the "weep" issue, but Not likely due to thread length of the adjusting screws. Mopar does not make a grommet that works with this PCV and my valve covers, so I had to use a section of heater hose between the PCV and grommet for the PCV to fit tight. Simple fix. Setting the idle and cruise mods involves installing a vacuum nipple in the base of the PCV ( supplied - along with allen wrenches for adjusting)for a vacuum gauge and holding the PCV in place ( partially in the grommet ) to make your adjustments. Again, pretty easy. My engine = 360 with 9.7:1, mild Hughes hydraulic, pocket ported 915's with 2.02 /1.60's, Edelbrock performer, small block TQ. Mild street build. They do supply a different spring for engines that pull less than 10" HG @ idle. Mine pulls 14" @ idle and I live at 5,000 ft above sea level ( another nice feature that an adjustable PCV can address. Like all PCV's, good oil baffling is a must and they won't cure excessive blow-by. Mike, yep, Many different shapes / colors on the outside, but internals are mostly the same. Per their suggestion for my application, I set mine up to pull 1" vacuum @ idle and 3" at cruise.

Cool thread.
I just got one and installed it on the Dakota R/T. It stabilized the idle real nice and so far so good. Being designed for repair and cleaning, it will be the last one I'll ever buy.

The PCV thing has become a real problem because of all the consolidating going on.

I will be getting another one for the Challenger.

Nice addition to your stuff!!