I am thinking of replacing my upper control arms with tubular control arms.

I am currently running the factory uppers with offset bushings.

Since I am doing a complete restoration and redoing all suspension components I figured I would look into a tubular setup.

Any advantages over the factory setup? I was looking at Qa1 or Firm Feel.

I am also going to be boxing my lower control arms and Firm Feel is redoing my K member.

Firm Feel, if you plan on any daily driving duty skip anything with spherical rod ends, they don't last on the street and anyone that says they do, really doesn't drive it much...

Thanks astjp2.

If you are looking to gain more caster and negative camber, you can still get there with the stock UCAs in place.
Some have noticed that with the design of our cars, it is hard to get both negative camber and a decent amount of caster. I was able to get about 4.5 degrees of caster with just the offset UCA bushings. I have seen where others could only get 2 degrees.
Several sources sell hardened spacers/washers that get placed between the steering knuckle and lower ball joint/steering arm. This effectively results in 2 degrees of NEG camber. With these, you can then dial out some of the NEG camber to gain caster.

I followed the advice of many people for my 70 Charger. I did box in the lower control arms, I used offset UCA bushings, reinforced the steering box mounts in the K member and welded in the seams. I made my own 3x3" frame connectors and torque boxes too. The car feels solid and just soaks up rough roads like a newer car.

Hotchkis is getting my money for UCAs, today.

have fun and let us know how many miles you get before you start replacing for ends....

Make sure and get the rubber booties to protect the ends.

SPC from Bergmann.

The SPC design offers the most caster/camber variable adjustment and WITHOUT having to relocate the mounting point as the Hotchkis design requires (which is not legal in SCCA Solo AX class E/SP; if you someday run SCCA CAM class, then it doesn't matter what you install or how its done).

Also Mitch, they use Delrin bushings and no heims.

DELRIN bushings are long-lasting (that's what I have for my UCAs now), and will be installing them into my LCAs (rcvd from Firm Feel).

Is the Delrin pliable enough for the LCA bushing? That stuff is pretty hard compared to Poly and rubber. We make them at the shop from time to time for the race cars, but never on anything that doesn't travel on a fixed, linear arc.

Where did you guys get the delrin bushing for the UCA from? I'm looking at a set, probably firm feel, for my 71.

I was thinking about having a Delrin/Aluminum setup made for it.

Devil -- Global West (Calif) made the Delrin UCA bushings for me a long time ago (~30+ years ago)... still a-ok!... and greasable.... not sure if GW still offers them or would make them for you.

Bergman offers delrin lowers, although they are easy enough to whip up on a lathe with some material, as is bronze.

http://www.bergmanautocraft.com/products.php?cat=2

Delrin is an excellent material for this application. I believe the FF bushings are nylon not delrin.

I tried Pete, cant convince these guys to just buy your damn UCA's.

I wouldn't use Heim joints in anything that saw street time.
Harshness, vibration and early failure? Yeah...Where do I sign???

Different strokes for different folks.

Once you get the SPC upper control arms you will never want to use anything else again. I mean why would you not want the ones that offer the most adjustment range and are the simplest to change settings on....