Converting from manual to power and need correct length of the shaft. I bought whole column that was supposed to be power but it has been messed with I noticed when I pulled the shaft out of housing(pull apart some at slip). I read you can knock them in or out but really wanted to do it like the factory did.

Is there a chart for this?

I went thru this a few months back when i accidentally collapsed my steering shaft, when I removed column for painting it.

As I recall, shaft length from tip at steering wheel to bottom where it goes into coupler is 40.75 inches. Likely someone will post if correct or not.

This one is at 41 1/4 now but as you can see in pic that it has been marked then pulled apart, which worries me.

That 45 year old plastic does not hold it anyway. It's too brittle. Leave it a little long and when you put it back together, you can adjust it then. I just did an e body that way. These old columns have all been messed with. I left the column apart and slid it in the the car. I stabbed the steering box and got it right. Then I tapped on the rod to get it to length to assemble it. This one was assembled so short, it pulled out of the greased joint that attaches to the box. That would have beef fun at high speeds!

That would be spooky. haha

So that little tiny keeper pin in the the housing really is a good idea to put back in.

Yes. It was gone or hammered down. Idk. Real rocket scientist put this one back together.

total length for ebody ps shaft is 40-3/4"

In theory if the shaft is not pinned to proper length, the lower shaft could work its way out of the coupler. That would not be good.

It would not come out if the small pin is installed in the coupler. The shafts are a tight fit. It only moves when you hammer it.

Agreed. However I have seen Mopars without this pin in place. Also as I recall, the shaft and retaining shoes can be merely pulled out of the coupler. That is possible on Bergman coupler, my memory escapes me on a stock coupler.

If using Borgeson steering box and Bergman coupler there is no pin.

In own experience on my Challenger, the inner shaft could move about rather freely with the plastic shaft pin not in place. Also why it had collapsed so easily when I had removed column for refinishing.

This is why I had qualified my statement as "in theory".

Did not wish to think of such unease while driving the car, so pinned the shaft to ensure that it could not move about and possibly find its way out of the coupler.

If yours moved freely then I would have concern as well. I've never had one that moved with little effort. I've wondered about drilling out the plastic on both parts and melting some and replacing it before, but I never have. The last 70 challenger I worked on had the pin broken or beat down so much that the coupler came apart in my hand trying to install the snap ring that holds the upper bearing in place. I just replace the shaft with one that was not beat up on both ends.

Thank you for replies, I will check mine to see if it is tight to move back in to the correct length since it is too long according to biggE.

I will be installing the lock pin in the coupler for sure. Wouldn't want it to loosen up and be too long either then it won't be in the happy spot in the coupler like manual recommends.

I put the 40 3/4 power steer shaft in and it fits perfect, thank you all for the input