Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3
larger cars and basic handling #2171020
10/09/16 06:30 PM
10/09/16 06:30 PM
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,890
Spahn Ranch
RMCHRGR Offline OP
top fuel
RMCHRGR  Offline OP
top fuel

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,890
Spahn Ranch
Thinking about picking up a C-barge or maybe a B-body for nice day 'daily driving' type duty. I spend a lot of time highway driving to get to work. I have driven 100K miles over the last 4 years in an '08 Mazdaspeed 3.

It's been a decent and fun car with the turbo, 6 speed manual and handling package. The turbo makes torque at any rpm and the 6 speed keeps it in the power band really easily. The suspension is really stiff though and after a long drive in traffic, it gets tiring.

Going from a sport-tuned turbo 4 import to a C barge or B body would certainly be a huge leap. I can't help but think I would miss the ability and responsiveness of the Mazda.

That being said, can you make one of these larger cars handle reasonably? I'm not going to autocross it or anything so no serious G Machine type stuff. Maybe some pieces here and there but whatever platform I end up with would likely stay 'stock'.

Not really into the rubber band tires on huge wheels but I might consider 16" steelies if I can find some that look OK.

I'm thinking rebuilt front suspension with 'good' parts/bushings, sway bars, t bars, lower a tad but not scraping the ground. I would like it to be easy to drive but be responsive and as agile as a larger car could be. I'm not an overly aggressive driver but I don't drive like an old lady either. I have gotten used to be able to whip my car around and it always does what I want it to predictably.

I know there is a lot of body roll, big mass and generally little road feel on '60s-'70s Chrysler products.

The one thing I am be undecided about is an engine. Big blocks make cars nose heavy but larger cars kind of 'need' it and don't really look right with small blocks. Maybe a small block stroker is a viable option? Whatever it winds up being it could very well be fuel injected and overdriven.

Sound like a decent plan or would it be an uphill battle with stock oriented parts?

Thanks for any input.

- Greg


'71 Duster
'17 Ram 1500
Re: larger cars and basic handling [Re: RMCHRGR] #2171022
10/09/16 06:38 PM
10/09/16 06:38 PM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101 Offline
I got lucky at Woodward!
MuuMuu101  Offline
I got lucky at Woodward!

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
Firm Feel is the only one I know of that sells handling components for a C-body. But IMO, a C-body will be nowhere close to your MazdaSpeed3, especially if you're only going to ride on 16" wheels at the biggest. First off, there's hardly any tire availability with 15 and 16" wheels. You'd need to go to a 17" wheel minimum, which don't look bad on C-bodies as they're so big, but even tire options are shrinking for those.

Re: larger cars and basic handling [Re: RMCHRGR] #2171023
10/09/16 06:40 PM
10/09/16 06:40 PM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 96,649
On The Boat, On The Lake, Wa. ...
amxautox Offline
Still Retired. Still Posting on Moparts. A Lot.
amxautox  Offline
Still Retired. Still Posting on Moparts. A Lot.

Joined: May 2003
Posts: 96,649
On The Boat, On The Lake, Wa. ...
What I'm going to recommend to you is the same thing I did to my '71 Sebring.

Leave the stock springs and T-Bars under it. Makes for a great soft ride for everyday to-work trips, and across the state and such.

Get some heavy duty anti-sway bars. They will help GREATLY to get rid of the boat-leaning around corners.

My car had a 318 auto, plenty of power for daily driving. Yes a big block or stroker small block would have been better, but I never did install the hemi, or 440 that I wanted to get.

My car did great driving, and even on the 1/4 mile roundy round track one night. boogie penguin


Tom

"Everyone should believe in something; I believe I'll go fishing."

-Henry David Thoreau

Men and fish are alike. They both get into trouble when they open their mouths

author unknown

Re: larger cars and basic handling [Re: MuuMuu101] #2171050
10/09/16 08:11 PM
10/09/16 08:11 PM
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,890
Spahn Ranch
RMCHRGR Offline OP
top fuel
RMCHRGR  Offline OP
top fuel

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,890
Spahn Ranch
Originally Posted By MuuMuu101
Firm Feel is the only one I know of that sells handling components for a C-body. But IMO, a C-body will be nowhere close to your MazdaSpeed3, especially if you're only going to ride on 16" wheels at the biggest.


Good to know about FF. I'm not dead set on a C barge. I have been looking for a cruiser though and have been intrigued by the land yachts more than I thought I would be. Mid '60s Furys are not too huge. A '67 Belvedere is another car I am looking at, that seems to be on the small side of the B body platform. I had one way back, never felt like a real big car. I'm guessing a B body might be a better starting point.

I know it's tough to compare two totally different cars from two entirely different eras. The Mazda is almost intuitive. I believe a lot of it has to do with the instant torque of the turbo which really helps with the handling, just easier to get in and out of situations quickly. Can't imagine making too many snap decisions in a land yacht.


Originally Posted By MuuMuu101
First off, there's hardly any tire availability with 15 and 16" wheels. You'd need to go to a 17" wheel minimum, which don't look bad on C-bodies as they're so big, but even tire options are shrinking for those.


Understood about the tire selection. Kinda why I am trying to stay relatively stock so there is less need for a bigger tire. I think once you start building the suspension to a certain point, the tires become more critical.


'71 Duster
'17 Ram 1500
Re: larger cars and basic handling [Re: amxautox] #2171063
10/09/16 08:28 PM
10/09/16 08:28 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,803
Between Houston & Galveston TX
SattyNoCar Offline
Smarter than no class Flappergass by a mile
SattyNoCar  Offline
Smarter than no class Flappergass by a mile

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,803
Between Houston & Galveston TX

"I know there is a lot of body roll, big mass and generally little road feel on '60s-'70s Chrysler products."

OK, unless you are planning on gymkhana slaloming each and every moment you're behind the wheel, the '70 C's aren't the pigs on ice everyone makes them out to be.

Look at how cop cars are set up. I had a '77 Gran Fury cop car. Stiffer springs and T-bars, single anti sway bar, firm feel box, it would surprise you how far over the posted speed limit you could push it on an exit ramp. Handled surprisingly well for a large car and didn't beat you to death on a rough road.

I've also had a '71 Newport Royal. It was a basic model, PS, PB, AC, 360, but none of the NY'er weight adders. Mine weighed not much more than a B-body. Admittedly, it didn't handle as good as the '77, but I did scare the crap out of a couple of teens in a Mitsu Eclipse that couldn't shake me.

Don't get all stupid with one off parts and donk sized rims. Updated brakes, steering, and tires make huge differences on these cars.

I had the misfortune of driving a '77 Gran Marquis (Mercury/Ford) about a year after I got rid of my cop car. THAT was a pig on ice. If the exit ramp said 30MPH, you had better be doing 20 in that sucker. eek

twocents


John

The dream is dead, long live the dream.......😥
Re: larger cars and basic handling [Re: RMCHRGR] #2171071
10/09/16 08:43 PM
10/09/16 08:43 PM
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,890
Spahn Ranch
RMCHRGR Offline OP
top fuel
RMCHRGR  Offline OP
top fuel

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,890
Spahn Ranch
Cool, thanks for the reply.

Not looking to go bananas with something like this, mostly just want a reasonably responsive car. You brought up cop car stuff, I was kinda thinking along those lines. Don't need tubular control arms or 14" brakes etc.

Looking at maybe a '71-'72 Satellite as another possibility, something more stripped down. Probably could go either way with a big or small block in one of those.

Hey, if an A body comes along that fits the bill, I might grab that too. Guess I just have a vision of a slightly larger car that makes some torque and handles everyday driving with ease.


'71 Duster
'17 Ram 1500
Re: larger cars and basic handling [Re: RMCHRGR] #2171082
10/09/16 08:51 PM
10/09/16 08:51 PM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 96,649
On The Boat, On The Lake, Wa. ...
amxautox Offline
Still Retired. Still Posting on Moparts. A Lot.
amxautox  Offline
Still Retired. Still Posting on Moparts. A Lot.

Joined: May 2003
Posts: 96,649
On The Boat, On The Lake, Wa. ...
So, where do you live? spahn means nuttin. lol


Tom

"Everyone should believe in something; I believe I'll go fishing."

-Henry David Thoreau

Men and fish are alike. They both get into trouble when they open their mouths

author unknown

Re: larger cars and basic handling [Re: RMCHRGR] #2171087
10/09/16 08:56 PM
10/09/16 08:56 PM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101 Offline
I got lucky at Woodward!
MuuMuu101  Offline
I got lucky at Woodward!

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
Here's an example of a C-body on 17's. Does not look like a "donk" by any means.

IMG_2779.jpg
Re: larger cars and basic handling [Re: RMCHRGR] #2171093
10/09/16 09:01 PM
10/09/16 09:01 PM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101 Offline
I got lucky at Woodward!
MuuMuu101  Offline
I got lucky at Woodward!

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
If it were me in your position and I was doing up a C-body or an older Fury, I'd just go to FirmFeel and buy front and rear sway bars, Bilstein shocks, no smaller than 1.12" T-bars, Stage 3 PS box, and a suspension rebuild kit. I'd redo the brakes and install 17" wheels with a good modern tire on it. Heck, the C-bodies have so much room and such a tall tire, you may be able to get away with a modern SUV tire. Does Dr Diff have C-body brake kits front and rear? It doesn't need to be crazy. I'd imagine the 11.75" rotors would do, but a 13" kit with the Cobra calipers up front should help stop the big boy down a lot easier.

Re: larger cars and basic handling [Re: amxautox] #2171137
10/09/16 09:54 PM
10/09/16 09:54 PM
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,890
Spahn Ranch
RMCHRGR Offline OP
top fuel
RMCHRGR  Offline OP
top fuel

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,890
Spahn Ranch
Originally Posted By amxautox
So, where do you live? spahn means nuttin. lol


Spahn Ranch

I live on Long Island about 35 mi. east of NYC. I commute 55 miles one way to Westchester County which is about 30 minutes north of the city.

The ride up is generally a little easier but in the afternoon, I sit in traffic for at least an hour. It generally takes anywhere between 1 1/2-2hrs to get home.

I always think how cool it would in an old Mopar instead of a Mazda. Life's too short not to drive something cool.


'71 Duster
'17 Ram 1500
Re: larger cars and basic handling [Re: MuuMuu101] #2171141
10/09/16 10:00 PM
10/09/16 10:00 PM
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,890
Spahn Ranch
RMCHRGR Offline OP
top fuel
RMCHRGR  Offline OP
top fuel

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,890
Spahn Ranch
Originally Posted By MuuMuu101
If it were me in your position and I was doing up a C-body or an older Fury, I'd just go to FirmFeel and buy front and rear sway bars, Bilstein shocks, no smaller than 1.12" T-bars, Stage 3 PS box, and a suspension rebuild kit. I'd redo the brakes and install 17" wheels with a good modern tire on it. Heck, the C-bodies have so much room and such a tall tire, you may be able to get away with a modern SUV tire. Does Dr Diff have C-body brake kits front and rear? It doesn't need to be crazy. I'd imagine the 11.75" rotors would do, but a 13" kit with the Cobra calipers up front should help stop the big boy down a lot easier.


I think all that sounds reasonable.

I'll have to look at some of the larger wheels some more, most of them don't really appeal to me at all.

Was at Lebanon Valley Dragway for Mopar Day yesterday. Getting gas on the way home a guy in a '69 Charger with those 17" Magnums pulled in net to me. Didn't look too bad I guess. Guess I might have to get over it at some point.


'71 Duster
'17 Ram 1500
Re: larger cars and basic handling [Re: amxautox] #2171143
10/09/16 10:02 PM
10/09/16 10:02 PM
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,808
Kirkland, Washington
Pacnorthcuda Offline
Too Many Posts
Pacnorthcuda  Offline
Too Many Posts

Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,808
Kirkland, Washington
Originally Posted By amxautox
So, where do you live? spahn means nuttin. lol


I am familiar with the California location. Lived there for a bit...but things went a little helter skelter.


Re: larger cars and basic handling [Re: Pacnorthcuda] #2171209
10/09/16 11:44 PM
10/09/16 11:44 PM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664
IN
A
ahy Offline
master
ahy  Offline
master
A

Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664
IN
I think it is pretty straight forward to get a B or even a C to handle decently. As several have mentioned, step up the sway bars a lot, the T bars a little (or leave alone) and good shocks. Disc brakes up front with at least the 11.75" OE type rotor.

You also need to get the alignment dialed in with some negative camber and positive caster. Often this means at least offset bushings (or tubular UCA's).

The car - whatever it turns out to be - would likely do OK in your application with available 15" radial tires. 17" or 18" could add more tire options, more feel and higher limits but not required.

A basic front end rebuild with all or mostly all rubber bushings and a Firm Feel PS box is also important.

As far as power, that depends on taste and budget. I would want at least a moderately built 360 personally for a heavier car. For your application, I don't think you want a rough idle or engine that is touchy in traffic so more cubic inches help with good manners + power.

Re: larger cars and basic handling [Re: RMCHRGR] #2171470
10/10/16 02:13 PM
10/10/16 02:13 PM
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 214
Hamburg / Germany
D
Den300 Offline
enthusiast
Den300  Offline
enthusiast
D

Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 214
Hamburg / Germany
I ride a 69 Chrysler 300 and after a small crah I rebuild the whole front end and parts of the rear end.
All parts for the front end I bought at FirmFeel. Biggest sway bar with 1.25" - massive!
HD strud rods
PU all around and their tubular UCAs. KYB shocks in the front. Rancho 9000XL in the rear.
I also installed FF rear swaybar. Steering is with a 20:1 manual box.
The difference in comparisson to the original set up is like day and night.
Brakes are SSBC Force 10 with 4 pistons. With yellow EBC pads, a 15/16" MC, residual valves
and distributor block to reduce the back stopping power (ori drums) to a minimum,
the car stops great and I can get the front brakes to block completely.
Due to my TTI headers I am stucked with my original 0,98" t-bars. Announced that already
to TTI and they wrote they might take it into their buildings - we will see.
Wilwood now also offers disc brake kits for c-bodies.
Still on 15" wheels. But when ever I reached my goals to drive a 11.99 or less,
I will switch to a GV, 17" wheels and big brakes with hydroboost system and borgeson steering.


Hamburg/Germany

69 Chrysler 300
446cui Dual Quad
12.64 @ 110.7

Re: larger cars and basic handling [Re: RMCHRGR] #2171507
10/10/16 03:18 PM
10/10/16 03:18 PM
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 654
Alberta
R
rustbuckett68 Offline
mopar
rustbuckett68  Offline
mopar
R

Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 654
Alberta
About 20 years ago, I had a 74 Newport sedan and a 75 Newport 4 dr. HT. Noticed the sedan had a larger front bar so I swapped it, used 15x7' wheels from a later model, 255/60 and 275/60 and lowered a tad. Picked up a 'police' rear bar, then noticed the Cordoba bar had the same shape, but was thicker. Bolted in, even the holes in the frame were punched. For a 5400# car, it handled real good, and I drove it hard. Wouldn't let me run a solo course though.

Re: larger cars and basic handling [Re: RMCHRGR] #2171554
10/10/16 04:51 PM
10/10/16 04:51 PM
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 59
Florida
S
Sweet5ltr Offline
member
Sweet5ltr  Offline
member
S

Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 59
Florida
Originally Posted By RMCHRGR
Thinking about picking up a C-barge or maybe a B-body for nice day 'daily driving' type duty. I spend a lot of time highway driving to get to work. I have driven 100K miles over the last 4 years in an '08 Mazdaspeed 3.

It's been a decent and fun car with the turbo, 6 speed manual and handling package. The turbo makes torque at any rpm and the 6 speed keeps it in the power band really easily. The suspension is really stiff though and after a long drive in traffic, it gets tiring.

Going from a sport-tuned turbo 4 import to a C barge or B body would certainly be a huge leap. I can't help but think I would miss the ability and responsiveness of the Mazda.

That being said, can you make one of these larger cars handle reasonably? I'm not going to autocross it or anything so no serious G Machine type stuff. Maybe some pieces here and there but whatever platform I end up with would likely stay 'stock'.

Not really into the rubber band tires on huge wheels but I might consider 16" steelies if I can find some that look OK.

I'm thinking rebuilt front suspension with 'good' parts/bushings, sway bars, t bars, lower a tad but not scraping the ground. I would like it to be easy to drive but be responsive and as agile as a larger car could be. I'm not an overly aggressive driver but I don't drive like an old lady either. I have gotten used to be able to whip my car around and it always does what I want it to predictably.

I know there is a lot of body roll, big mass and generally little road feel on '60s-'70s Chrysler products.

The one thing I am be undecided about is an engine. Big blocks make cars nose heavy but larger cars kind of 'need' it and don't really look right with small blocks. Maybe a small block stroker is a viable option? Whatever it winds up being it could very well be fuel injected and overdriven.

Sound like a decent plan or would it be an uphill battle with stock oriented parts?

Thanks for any input.

- Greg


Hey Greg,

Pick a single direction with the car, get the c-body idea out of your mind if you're imagining a nimble, quick performance car (c-body is a boat, literally, a b-body is near 17' long already). Look for a nice 68-70 b-body project car that someone has laying around in their garage, you're not going to find anything relatively nice for under 20k if you look for drivers (at least not here in FL). You can pick up a nice a-body for 10-15k however, that would be an even better performance/handling application, but those are a dime-a-dozen.


Hotchkis is your friend, I would look into their TVS kit or purchase components individually. Biggest impact is front/rear swaybars, don't go for the knockoffs, buy your parts from the guys that actually test-tune-race these cars on the road course. Next step would be shocks and torsion bars. You'll have $1,400 in suspension work if you go with the non-adjustable shocks, and the car will blow you away in regards to your current thoughts on a b-body handling.

Next stop is braking, don't even waste your time anywhere else, go to Dr. Diff. Pick up his STAGE 3 or 4 kit for the front, and let him set you up with a rear set with 15/16" master cylinder/brake lines. You'll need 17-18" wheels to clear the 13" front rotors, so get the idea of 16" steelies out of your brain if you want to actually handle, brake, and have good lateral stability in the corner. If you have a 68-70 b-body, you can look into 94-04 mustang rear wheels, and 05-16 fronts to have a w-i-d-e selection of inexpensive 18" wheels that will clear large brake calipers. Stick with 255/45 fronts and 295-305/45 rears (28.5-28.8x11.6-12.0), that will give you a slight rake and a fair amount of sidewall (no rubber bands!!!!). No modifications are necessary to run this size on a b-body (don't even have to roll the fender lips), other than choosing a wheel with the appropriate backspacing/offset. Mustang wheels are $150 vs. $500+ ea. for a custom setup. For the savings, you could pick up a set specifically for the track as well.

As far as the engine goes, 440 all the way or 400 low-deck. We're talking about a car that's nearly 17' long, weighing 3,500-3,800, you'll need the additional torque. It's so easy to make 500HP out of a 100% street wedge, you'll be kicking yourself for not going with a big-block. With aluminum heads, water pump, manifold, etc. You'll probably figure out that the big-block weighs nearly the same or even less than a factory small-block.

Gearing, well, if you run an 8 3/4 it's pretty simple, toss in a 2.76-3.23 ratio for your daily commute. There is no reason to chase a few 1/10th's and deal with a 4.10-4.30 every day. You could easily get by with a 440/727 combo if you run higher gearing, that's what torque is for.. You'll have no problem getting up to speed at the light. Also, invest in a good wideband setup, tune it for 14-14.5:1 while cruising to save some fuel, nearly the same ratio at idle.

BTW:
My first car was an L98/z51 C4 corvette, and last three daily drivers were a 15' SRT M6 Challenger, C5 Z06, and S/C Saleen Mustang with a road racing suspension setup; so I'm used to corner carvers.

Good luck!





Last edited by Sweet5ltr; 10/10/16 05:15 PM.

1969 Plymouth Road Runner (440 w/ Boost! RIP) now a low-deck 470 with hotchkis suspension, nascar boom tube exhaust, & big brakes.
Re: larger cars and basic handling [Re: RMCHRGR] #2171745
10/10/16 10:24 PM
10/10/16 10:24 PM
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,042
colorado
S
savoy64 Offline
top fuel
savoy64  Offline
top fuel
S

Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,042
colorado
you guys need to be doing some reading on the CHP training academy road tests on their police cruisers---a 68 polara 440 car set a record that stood for almost 25 years on a road course----it was chased later by mustangs and camaros----not sure what finally caught up with it---but the idea a c-body cant get it done is nonsense.....

Re: larger cars and basic handling [Re: RMCHRGR] #2171760
10/10/16 10:40 PM
10/10/16 10:40 PM
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,890
Spahn Ranch
RMCHRGR Offline OP
top fuel
RMCHRGR  Offline OP
top fuel

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,890
Spahn Ranch


Found this while surfing around. Again, not in love with the wheel/tire combo. Wish bigger wheels were more subtle, just not my style at all.


'71 Duster
'17 Ram 1500
Re: larger cars and basic handling [Re: savoy64] #2171769
10/10/16 10:50 PM
10/10/16 10:50 PM
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 59
Florida
S
Sweet5ltr Offline
member
Sweet5ltr  Offline
member
S

Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 59
Florida
Originally Posted By savoy64
you guys need to be doing some reading on the CHP training academy road tests on their police cruisers---a 68 polara 440 car set a record that stood for almost 25 years on a road course----it was chased later by mustangs and camaros----not sure what finally caught up with it---but the idea a c-body cant get it done is nonsense.....


He's coming from a Mazda 3 (106" wheelbase), a b-body is already quite a bit larger (relative overall length of a Chevy Suburban, 117" wheelbase), and a c-body is even longer than that (120+" wheelbase). You're talking back when a 6 second 0-60 time was impressive for a Hemi Cuda, and HD leaf suspension, brakes (big 11" drums!), and front/rear swaybars were voodoo other than on T/A cars and police cruisers. It was impressive back then, but a V6 minivan would probably outperform that Polara on the road course today.. whistling

You can get a b-body well into the 3400-3500# weight range, with some basic fiberglass parts, let alone aluminum heads, intake, etc. If you're going to be placing 10K + in suspension, wheels, tires, and brakes; why start with something that is exponentially more difficult to acquire parts for and with a dramatically smaller community. You'll have 15-20k into either car EASY! Honestly, an a-body is probably the better starting point, but a b-body is fairly capable (if lightened up!). C-body would be different, and the initial investment would be lower (obviously, would be dramatically less valuable in the long run , regardless of modifications). Good luck with whatever direction you choose, I'm sure it'll be a tough call either way.


1969 Plymouth Road Runner (440 w/ Boost! RIP) now a low-deck 470 with hotchkis suspension, nascar boom tube exhaust, & big brakes.
Re: larger cars and basic handling [Re: RMCHRGR] #2171771
10/10/16 10:54 PM
10/10/16 10:54 PM
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 59
Florida
S
Sweet5ltr Offline
member
Sweet5ltr  Offline
member
S

Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 59
Florida
Originally Posted By RMCHRGR


Found this while surfing around. Again, not in love with the wheel/tire combo. Wish bigger wheels were more subtle, just not my style at all.


[url=https://postimage.org/][/url]

You don't have to go with a classic style wheel, if you really want a capable braking system, you're going to have to purchase a wheel with plenty of caliper clearance. Go to an inexpensive mustang wheel and never look back, just make sure you stick with the model years I outlined above. Year one makes some nice 17" wheel rallye reproductions (if you want subtle), not sure if they will clear Wilwood or any larger 4-6 piston calipers though.

Last edited by Sweet5ltr; 10/10/16 11:05 PM.

1969 Plymouth Road Runner (440 w/ Boost! RIP) now a low-deck 470 with hotchkis suspension, nascar boom tube exhaust, & big brakes.
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3






Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.1