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Re: How to block off heat riser ports
[Re: Bill MeLater]
#214766
02/16/09 11:44 PM
02/16/09 11:44 PM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 15,478
the boonies
aarcuda
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 15,478
the boonies
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Quote:
If you are dealing with unknowns, such as intake port/head angles try making a template of the intake side of the heads on the motor w/the intake removed. Then make a template of the intake, compare them and adjust angles/mounting holes/ports as needed. Certainley not high tech but will get the results you're looking for..
thats what i was doing. I took the old gasket (.040 thick) and saw the intake was riding .100" above the port opening in the gasket. the gasket fits on the head port perfectly. SO i was trying to use that .100" measurement to calculate how much to cut it but that requires the intake angle.
I found something here http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-mill-c.htm but Im not sure what to make of it yet. it says -3 degrees but -3 to what???
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Re: How to block off heat riser ports
[Re: Bill MeLater]
#214768
02/17/09 03:54 PM
02/17/09 03:54 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 12,419
Kalispell Mt.
HotRodDave
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 12,419
Kalispell Mt.
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Isn't a 340 6bbl manifold aluminum? Just weld it up before you surface the heads and it will look like there was never a passage there.
On iron intakes I use epoxy and never had one burn through. It is the flow of gas through there that will make it get super hot, if %100 of the flow is blocked it will not get that hot.
As for the burning through stainless gaskets, it won't if you block the tiny hole they made in it, a screw and nut with permanant lock tite works for me.
I am not causing global warming, I am just trying to hold off a impending Ice Age!
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Re: How to block off heat riser ports
[Re: Neil]
#214779
02/21/09 11:46 PM
02/21/09 11:46 PM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 15,478
the boonies
aarcuda
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 15,478
the boonies
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Quote:
Looks like a good solution.
I would just file those down by hand rather than pay to have it done, but either way is fine.
i need to have both side cut .035" anyways so i'm good with letting the shop handle it
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Re: How to block off heat riser ports
[Re: aarcuda]
#214781
02/21/09 11:56 PM
02/21/09 11:56 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,463
Eagle, Idaho
Neil
The Doctor is in.
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The Doctor is in.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,463
Eagle, Idaho
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Quote:
i guess this is normal..
Cam is fine.
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Re: How to block off heat riser ports
[Re: 69Cuda340S]
#214784
02/22/09 08:53 PM
02/22/09 08:53 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,361
swamps of florida
beepsalot
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,361
swamps of florida
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i've also found that after heads are milled, the end seals are useless. use a good bead of rtv for that. it will make thing line up easier. my LRT(lil rat truck)is donr like that beeps
Just Follow Me Down the Street, You'll Know i'm Up to No Good...
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Re: How to block off heat riser ports
[Re: beepsalot]
#214785
02/22/09 09:02 PM
02/22/09 09:02 PM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 15,478
the boonies
aarcuda
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 15,478
the boonies
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Quote:
i've also found that after heads are milled, the end seals are useless. use a good bead of rtv for that. it will make thing line up easier. my LRT(lil rat truck)is donr like that beeps
i havent been able to use those end seals EVER. Ive always used the permatex rtv. theres just not enough room for those seals
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