Very nice!
My best run from the other night with the bottle was essentially a carbon copy to yours, luckily (?) my tech guys are fairly lax, hasn't looked under the hood this year, no comment on sub 11.50 either.

Agreed.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/300141/10002/-1

1 7/8" and ceramic coated, $392

Seems reasonable, what ya think? I'm thinking a converter change and some headers and we will be cooking.

That is pretty flipping cool!

I got flagged down before I even hit the timing shack, I suspect the tower gave the safety guy a heads up that I had run faster than tech card indicated.

Anyone running a PTC converter? Thinking about calling John at CRT and ordering a 9.5" street/strip unit.

Maybe if I'm quick I can have the car back out before the end of the season ;-)

I like my PTC convertor. I just called and talked to Kenny the owner and told him what I had and he did a custom.

What cam is in it now?

Direct Connection .528 mech with 284 duration.

I use to run a .590 but one of the lobes went south.

Holley states 52/52 is 150 shot

Monte states closer to 100 hp

Calculating from mph = 109 hp

Calculating from ET = 131 hp

Hmmm...

Monte is the Holley HP rating calculated at 5 psi fuel pressure?

1 7/8" headers on order!

Dropped a line to John this morning with all the specs of the car, see what he states for a converter. A nice crisp 1.6 short time would be just what the cars needs.

MPH is power, ET is how you get the car down the track. But either way the advertised HP numbers are strictly based on the amount of nitrous flow. If you flow X amount of nitrous, you will make roughly this much extra power. It's not a hard and fast number and because nitrous effects different motors different ways. It adds torque, so if it loosens up your way tight converter, the car will leave harder and run quicker.........BUT, the mph is how much power it actually added.

If you go 12.50 on one run and 12.30 on the next, because the car spun, but run the same mph.......did you have more power on 12.30 run? Some seem to want to debate, but MPH is power......period

Just checked the stall on the converter, 3100 rpm steady (not a flash) with the brakes locked in third.

It was suggested to just send the current converter out for adjustment, thoughts? Converter internal Voodoo I'm weak on.

A question and a comment.....

Did you call PTC, tell them your combo and goals, and they suggested that reworking your stock 11" converter would be the hot ticket for you to be running mid/low 1.60 60' times?

I have never (nor am I aware that any of my customers) experienced $700-800 converter performance out of a $350-400(new) converter.

I'm going through a PTC distributor, who is a pretty sharp guy.



I would be inclined to agree; I'm not sure if the distributor is trying to save me money reworking my existing unit or feels that reworking the unit is all that is required. Was going to call at lunch today to see which way he is going.

A factor is that it is a street car and primarily used as such, it might be a large consideration in his thoughts.

No debate Monte, the program I use for calculating power provides both from ET and MPH. Calculated from ET assumes a consistent launch which the car was pretty consistent.

FYI I take numbers generated from both with a grain of salt since there are many factors that come into play. As MPH rises so does power requirements to buck the air and bottlenecks in the vehicle's systems start to rear their ugly head too.

My Reliant is a perfect example of that. I could show you a timeslip where the car is accelerating at every point on the track to the 1000 foot mark... and then it falls on its face from there on out. There is a limitation caused by the bore and stroke of the motor combined with the intake runner design. When the car comes back out it will be running a shorter stroke and custom intake to alleviate the issue.

Clearly in that case HP calculated by MPH isn't going to give you a true indication of the cars potential best ET. Just something to think about...

Headers came in, excellent.

Well I'm on the fence now.

Transmission guys states since I just want "a bit more" go with a modified converter. Converter guy states "go with a 9.5" and see big results.

Anyone with a 9.5" converter care to chime in or drop me a PM, its the direction I'm inclined to go but would like some feedback.

Downside on the 9.5" is it would be 2-3 weeks at best before I'd have one in hand.

I've ran every size converter you are talking about(12.11.10,9,and 8 inch) on the street and at the track, the older B&M O69J nine inch worked really well on the street and at the track until it broke The last T/A 8 inch SS converter I put in my old Duster is still being used at the track and on the street by the new owner It was easier to drive and .2 ET quicker and 2.0 MPH faster in the 1/8 mile than the ten inch custom built street and strip converter I had built for that car off of the dyno sheets for the motor Buy the best converter you can get, do NOT compromise All the good eight race converters I know of multiply torque more at the hit of the throttle, not so much on the larger size converters

What kind of manners on the street am I looking at when driving about with a 9.5" converter?