Was wondering if anybody here has ever used either of these tools to remove and install the snap ring on the front drum in a 727 trans.
With trans shops charging $15 to $20 just to remove or install, and having to leave it with them 'til the next day, these kind of look like they might work.
I tried C-Clamps and all I ever got was a bent retainer.
Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.
Thanks, Jeff

tool #1

Tool#2

Both look like they would work fine.

I made mine with a piece of pipe and use a press. If I going to buy one of the two you posted it would be #1.

I notched a piston skirt and put it on the press. Back in the 70s I had 2 people push down with hammer handles while I removed the clip. Those tools would be nice for remote location such as at the track.

Here is a piece a friend out together to compress that assembly.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/phpqzpimmam-jpg.1714615687/

Two equal length sockets in a vice and either a C-clamp or C-Clamp style vice-grips as the "3rd leg". Compress the lower part of the retainer in the vice using the two sockets as spacer between the vice jaw and the retainer. Compress the other side of the retainer with the clamp. Do it all slowly a little at a time. Then remove the snap ring. It's easier with an extra set of hands during reassembly but it can be done by yourself if your patient.
I rebuilt many a trans this way when i didn't have a tool.
Doug

Here's the home made tool I've been using for 40+ years.

Either one will work, I would go with number 2 . I have the factory miller tool, but I like John K's rendition.

I don't remember what I used on my last 727 build, but it was not tool listed here I can say that, except maybe a C clamp. But that was back in 94, so my memory is not there.

Thanks for the replies.
I like John Kunkel's design as the sides extend along the side of the retainer, possibly eliminating side movement and sliding off.
Hemi71x's snap press looks like it also has the same design.
I think I'll buy the tool #1.
Maybe I can turn up a plug to fit the I.D. of the drum to help locate the screw and eliminate side movement if that becomes a problem.
again, Thanks for the replies and ideas, Jeff

I always use c-clamps on all 904s and 727s I build. I've NEVER had a bent retainer

Was fortunate to acquire the original Miller tool years ago.

Mine is sorta like the one "62maxwgn" posted but its a little more open for more room to get at the snap ring. I bought it about 30 years ago from the Snap-On tool man. You dont need a press with it as I just clamp the bottom of the tool in a vise and then run the threaded bolt down to compress the spring. Its all I have used for 30 years. Ron

I just used 3 c clamps and no bent retainer.

I was doing a powerglide once and found a PVC coupling that was the right diameter and notched it so I could get to the snap ring and used it in a press , but a big c lamp would have also worked.

I would go with #1 since the compression screw is on the top and it looks lie you could clamp the bottom in a bench vise to hold it for you

Easiest/fastest to use is the one like hemi71x shows - I bought one like that, along with a foot operated one many years ago when a local shop closed. Also got a small box of assorted ones like the O/P posted as tool#1.

Google T-0158-SP and you will find several companies that sell the one that hemi71x shows, starting at about $135 on e-bay. Google T-0171 for the foot press I mentioned - they seem to start about $400.

Got one of those off ebay 12 yrs ago...for 50 bucks.

I have that tool, I bought it directly from Miller around 2002, it is also used to press the rear sprag outer race into the case.

I made one that is sort of like tool #1 out of scrap I had laying around.
I think the base was some 2" square tube 1/2" all thread as the post.
The top is also square tubing, maybe 1-1/4" or 1-1/2"? with a hole on each end, then some round tubes (to press the retainer down) that were put into the holes of the square tube and welded so they can't move. The footprint of the tubes pressing on the retainer is fairly small, like what would happen with "C" clamps, but worked that way. I "improved" it by welding some curved pipe sections to the tubes.


Large "C" clamps will work too, but you need a flat plate on the bottom

Yes, use to use half of a muffler clamp and the press

Then made a tool using the same muffler clamp and a center bolt and some washers, lot like the factory tool.

Mine, had it awhile

I have this one above and it works really well. Picked it up at carlisle 10+ years ago.

Here's mine.

cOOL TOOLS!

Curious though, how many of you reuse the snap rings? Not saying its bad or good, just when you take the time to remove a tranny, and rebuild/repair, do you guys reuse snap rings? arent they fairly cheap to just buy new?

How many snap ring failures have you seen?

As far as re using,sometimes yes and sometimes no.The main reason to change the snap ring is to get the correct clearance between the pressure plate and snap ring if you change disc's.

it all depends on which they are and how they look. The one being talked about in this thread using the tools shown to aid their removal don't see a lot of abuse, and very little pressures, so there is no reason to change it unless it is damaged.

If you use the proper tool to depress the clutch spring retainer, it makes it much easier to remove the snapring.

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/248867/filename/image.jpeg

Same one in my garage.
It gets the job done.

Works on other trans beside mopar.
As far as changing snap ring, the ring could brake and the tangs on the retainer will hold it anyway, never seen a reason to change one in all my years.

The snap rings on the front clutch spring retainers can't pop off when correctly installed, there are tabs on the retainer to keep the snap ring in place and I've never seen one break.

Thanks for all the replies, I learned a lot.
I ended up purchasing this one:

Tool #1

For $23.00 shipped it actually worked very well for a Chinese tool.
After I deburred the bottoms of the legs so all 4 would sit flush, Cleaned up the threads on the ends of the rod and cleaned up the threads in the base, it worked very well.
I don,t have a clue what the wing nut is for as I used a wrench.
Just thought I would share my results with you guys.
Thanks, Jeff

Hanging around the maintenance guys at work, one guy told me that a snap ring like this should fit snug in the groove.
The I.D. of the snap ring is slightly smaller then the O.D. it sits on.
Before I assembled my drum I test fit the snap ring. It should turn by hand with a slight resistance. If it spins freely or moves side to side or is bent, it should be replaced.
Same with the snap rings on the output shaft for the governor and bearing and the selective thickness snap ring on the front of the output shaft.
Jeff