Sounds like the harder hit in top hole topping out shocks and causing it to bounce.

So maybe the top hole (harder hit) w/ a stiffer rebound shock setting may be faster?

Chip it could be, only one way to know for sure.

I may give that a try soon...I'm still not sure exactly what this car of mine likes on these slicks.

I know mine stopped doing it when I switched away from rancho shocks.

Does this look right, or should I be on bottom hole?

I would stay there.

Do you have shims-spacers between spring and housing-perch? Perch sitting on the spring I mean?

Does this look right, or should I be on bottom hole?

Do you have shims-spacers between spring and housing-perch? Perch sitting on the spring I mean?

No, I don't have any spacers or shims. Not sure what difference that would make?

You have to try both.. lots of variables to
play with here.. how much torque, weight distribution,
gear ratio and the front end set up.. the only way to
make sure is testing it... and that includes adjusting
the shocks... and if the shocks are good enough to control
it.. its never as easy to say.. this way or that.. do
you have a low ratio first gear is just another thing

Raising or lowering that bottom plate in relation to the housing changes the instant center just like the first or second hole in the front pivot. Pretty much the same way moving the bottom bar in a four link at the housing. One way of getting the bar level to ground and the farther away the hole is from the center of housing, more leverage, closer, less

I raced my car again this weekend and it was hooking really well, but doesn't 60 ft. like it did with SS springs.

The car leaves smoother and more level and felt really good, though.

It had done a best of 1.54 60 ft. with SS springs but not consistently. It did 1.67 all day long with the Cal-Trac setup last Saturday. I have 3.54 gears ET Street Pro's and leave off idle. The engine is like a low rpm diesel and makes massive torque.

I use the Calvert (Rancho) 9 position shocks set on 7. We did change the upper mount on the shocks to get them more vertical.

The car drives excellent but I would really like to shave a tenth off consistantly.

Should I move the bar to the upper hole? I thought about rear sliders, too, but use the car a lot on the street and have heard they are noisy.

Will double adjustable shocks help?

The only way to find out what your combination and car likes the best is to test, test, and then test some more
Have you tested leaving at different RPM yet? If not try that also

Not yet, but planned on that too! Not gonna experiment until next spring. Have some paying races coming up and always do well at both so don't want to change much..

x2 on Cab's comments.

I ran a best of 1.54 on SS springs, then switched to CalTracs with standard leaf springs and the same Rancho 5-way dampers I was using with the SS springs and dropped to a best of 1.51 and more consistency. Better engine and changing to split mono-leaf springs saw a best of 1.45, and still with the same old-style Ranchos. But there were preload & damping adjustments, launch RPM changes, tire pressure changes, etc., along the way.

Hole location has zero to do with IC as that is fixed however it changes the "hit" lower softer, upper harder.........

To be 1000lbs lighter.....

Would love to try bottom hole on mine but they had been cut off already when I purchased the car.

You can buy replacement side plates , just call Calverts

Tex

Read dizus’ reply. I think I can add to it though...
The forward hole changes the angle of the link bar. If the link bar is angled upwards in the front, the rotation of the housing (or the force trying to do so) forces the axle downward, effectively causing chassis separation. More traction. More shock needed to control separation.
If you could get the front of the bar low enough, you could theoretically cause the chassis to squat, even with the same instant center location. (Spring eye)

A simple way to visualize this...
Try pushing a car with a 20” long pry bar. If it is parallel to the force you are applying, the pry bar will move the car without pushing your arms up or down. Now try pushing the car with the pry bar at an upward angle. The more force you apply, the more your arms will be pushed toward the ground. That same effect causes separation with the Caltrac bar.