Art someone was definitely in there , silicon was not factory installed. It's possible that the adjuster did back off , you are trying to turn it counter clockwise correct ?

You should be able to get the axle out without loosening the adjuster.

Good luck finding that clip in the junkyard , unless you have a yard nearby that didn't crush everything old , the clip is available in the aftermarket , dr. diff ? And if you need a new axle adjuster end plate I have a spare one .

Art, you did not use any JB weld in there did you? (sorry couldn't resist!)

LOL and @(&*$(&%$!! - I've got some good old Mopar yards around me and I always enjoy an excuse to visit them..

But really - I've about had enough - this is getting uglier by the hour... trying to get the passenger side out just isn't working at !&^%$@#$ all..

First off, I don't have the axle puller tool recommended in the FSM..

...but I 've tried the following alternatives..

- I used PB Blaster, got the adjuster ring loose and tapped it CCW until it backs up tight against the flange end of the axle which helps put an "outward" force on the axle. Tapped the axle outwards. Not happening.
- I put the brake drum on backwards and used a dead blow hammer on the back side of the drum to hammer the axle out. Nothing.
- I rented a slide hammer from PepBoys, attached it to the flange and then heated the axle housing up with a blowtorch... and slide hammered like crazy... No dice.

It's not budging. !I#^&$%#*&^%@*^$%@*&^$#C$

Next up I'm going to wrap a heavy chain around the axle flange and get a heavier slide hammer...

What's my nuclear option?

- Do I take the whole axle and diff out, and take it to a machine shop to have the axle and bearing race pulled out?
- Do I assume someone had the same problem, couldn't get the axle out, left the old bearing in and just adjusted it down as tight as possible and put a new bearing in the driver's side?
- I'll post some pics in a sec..

Cheers,
- Art

You took the nuts off right ?

sorry ...

lol

that is what I would do (put more force on it, got any barbell weights). however you rig things up just as you know set it up so it dont dent or mar anything, that all the force goes toward pulling the axle straight out. the adjuster flat with the 5 holes ain't what is holding things up correct? I've seen em bind like crazy. EDIT In fact I would tap the 5 studs out of there first to get them completely out of the picture

Thanks again guys,
Yes, the five nuts on the "cover" plate are all off and I pried the plate loose. Of course I can't remove it completely cuz it's stuck behind the axle flange.
I went back to scrutinize the Driver's side that came off so easy. I couldn't learn anything that tells what's wrong on the Pass side.
I wouldn't be surprised if someone used JB weld on the $&$#^* outer bearing race on the Pass side. It bears evidence of being jury rigged, with the red silicone goop and harsh tool marks on the Driver's side "cover" plate, which is even warped enough it has to be hammered over the 5 studs to sit properly....

So there's all that.. and what it implies about the low level of care given by the prior "mechanic"...

I can't share photos at the moment, I'll try later tonight..
Best,
- Art

Art look at the other side where the race slides in and see if it's all scored , it's possible that the race spun on the other side and it was loctited in place ?

Also now that you have the adjuster loose on the plate spin it back in so you can get the plate assembly further back towards the axle flange. once you do that heat the bearing race wit ha torch and let it cool , if it has any type of loctite on it that will break the bond.

Well there is only one JB Weldmaster (right Art!). it's gonna be interesting to see what the holdup was when you get the axle out

Thanks for bearing with me, guys
( ha ha ha - get it? BEARING with me.... I kill myself).

Thanks John - yes, the other side has some mild scoring where the race slides in - how did you know? ..Especially the surface between the oil seal and the bearing race - not sure if that's normal production line machining or if the old bearing race spun... its pretty mild, more visual than anything you can feel with a finger.. so what I did was take the new bearing race and see how it fit in the old axle, and it slides in pretty snug.. but I didn't tap it in place cuz I gotta get the old oil seal out first...

I gave it one last try before giving up for the night... !@&^$#@*&%$# ...is all I can say,

Knocked the closure plate studs out, hammered the adjuster ring CCW until the inwards teeth pushed outwards against the back of the axle flange to put outward pressure on it, heated the bejeezus out of the axle tube, slide-hammered the !*&#$%@# out of it... even hammered carefully on the axle tube to see if I could "shock" it loose..

...Not a fraction of an inch movement.

But I have a new approach I'll try next time; using the principle behind the front suspension lower ball joint remover - an outward expanding nut & bolt:

I have a heavy bolt that fits snug behind the axle flange and touches the axle housing flange.. By putting a nut on this bolt, and unscrewing it, a very strong "spreading" effect is created between the flanges..

I only had one bolt to try with today. Not enough force. But the hardware store opens early and they will sell me 4-5 more. 'll insert them between the flanges and "screw them apart"... to put tremendous force to push them flanges apart..

I'm trying to upload pics to show ya, I'll keep trying.
- Art

Art, we wanna see some video (of you trying)

Here is a pic of the side I got out... the race FEELS smooth, even though it looks a bit rough.
The oil seal is in there, someone gooped the silicone on it.


Here is a pic of the axle I got out - I think you can see the "closure plate" is kind of beat up, tool and bolt marks on the surfaces..

Here is the only pic I've been able to upload of the side that WON'T come out.
Here you can see the adjuster ring: I have tapped it CCW until the inwards facing "teeth" are in contact with the back of the axle flange, and I believe this helps "push" the axle outwards...

If someone thought it was helpful to goop the other side full of silicone, who knows what they might have done on this side.. maybe the grip of silicone is enough to keep me from pulling the !@*&%# thing out?

Since this pic was taken, I knocked the 5 'closure plate' studs out (on the left), and put a spreader bolt between the two flanges to try and separate them... but I couldn't upload that pic.

I'm going to the hardware store.. see ya in a few.

One last try and I got last night's pics uploaded..

Here is the slide hammer rig attached to two wheel studs on the axle flange..


Here are the axle plate studs knocked out, and you can see the bolt and nut I squeezed in between the axle flanges to "spread" them apart like a front lower ball joint remover..

Art, the bolt and nut spreading idea will not work since you are pressing at the area where you also want to be removed (the axle flange).
Seeing what you have there now in the pic do you have access to two of the screw type jacks used on the newer cars?
I'd put one each behind the backing plate front and rear against the leaf spring and press it out that way.
If you have on old wheel laying around maybe bolt it to the axle and press on the back of the old wheel from the leaf springs.
Check your P/M...

^^^^ Treed !


Can't see pictures till tonight , my woork blocks photobucket ... ggggrrrr

Art it tighten the adjuuster against the back side of the axle flange ?

I'll call you

Thanks, Quint and thanks for the PM

- I thought my "bolt" idea would still let me BREAK the bearing race free of the axle housing before it hits the backside of the adjuster ring.. (...I thought the adjuster ring was the only surface in contact with the bearing, and that if I adjusted it out, there would be room for the bearing race to break free).

..but your post ..and JohnRR just called to also clarify the closure plate is what holds the bearing race in place - not the adjuster ring. I understand I am fighting myself with my "bolt" idea.. so I'll scratch that..

AND THANKS, YES - I can rig something up with a couple small piston jacks I have and set them between the leaf springs or frame and the back of a spare steel rim I have kicking around here somewhere..

Cheers,
- Art

Mid-morning update -

I backed the adjuster ring off, and the closure plate is nice and loose.
I realized I could get a better look if I adjusted the ring ALL the way off.. so far off that the 'closure plate' is completely loose and rests out-of-the-way on the axle flange..

All I see behind it is... rust.. and a few pieces of the old white foam gasket...
The back of the closure plate is also rusty.

I found my old steel rim and am trying to rig something up with scissor jacks.
- Art

Ok that is what is stopping you , the rust , heat , some PB blaster and a slide hammer ,something like this , Vatozone might have a loaner ?

http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-slide-hammer-and-puller-set-16-pc-60327.html

Art, I know you mentioned bottle/piston jacks earlier, usually they don't work when mounted sideways, scissor jacks will probably get all twisted up, I'd had a similar problem many years ago with an 8 3/4 rear that "welded" the bearing race to the housing (lack of grease/lubrication and heat) if there's a machine/tool rental shop in town rent a portable ram jack kit that has an assorted size of ram jacks/hyd pistons and attachments, they usually come in 10-20 ton capacity, the more force you can exert at the axle flange, less chance of bending the flange end, which you might do with a rim because of the leverage exerted further away from the axle center


You want a hyd. kit that has small compact pancake pistons, or small expanding jaw type pistons

Mike