I will try to make a long story short. 2003 Chrysler crate Hemi( yes the ones with all the problems) After a complete teardown due to knocking rod and other issues, I was able to run it about 500 miles. At that time a pushrod jumped off, but luckily no further damage occured. I remember changing the pushrod that jumped and it seems that I may have changed both on that cylinder. At that time I seem to remember there being two lengths one for intake and one for exhaust. Ok now for the current problem. I had the car out of service for several months installing an in tank fuel pump. Upon starting it I thought a pushrod had again come off, and shut it off. Upon pulling the valve cover on the same side as the prior pushrod problem, I discovered not a jumped pushrod but a broken valve cover baffle, the piece had broken off clean and was laying against one of the other cylinders valve spring. The part of the baffle that is still attached to the valve cover shows the adjoining cylinder's intake pushrod adjuster has been hitting the baffle also. Mopar performance's catalog notes that their pushrods for hydraulic lifters are for the 70- 71 OEM engines. Is there a difference in those pushrods and the ones that came in the crate engines?

Any help anyone can shed on this problem will be greatly appreciated. Larry

MP built the crate motors with as many parts from the parts bins as possible judging by the mismatch in size between the valve springs and retainers in my 03 crate 426.

That said one could ASSuME they are the same , but I would get and accurate measurement for exactly the length you need considering the adjusters was sticking up high enough to break the baffle loose . Also you might check and make sure that you have the proper length adjusters and that they are not longer than necessary ... which would be the reason they hit the baffle?

But I would think you should have heard the adjuster hitting the baffle ?? have you checked the other side ?

John, thanks for the reply. I did hear a clicking, but it was faint enough that I thought it might be a dirty lifter. It had been making the faint clicking for maybe fifty miles before it became more pronounced, and I pulled the cover. You mentioned adjusters to tall, and that was my first thought. I measured them and from the flat on the rocker arm to the top of the adjuster screw, measures 3/4 inch. That seems excessive to me as the jamb nut is only what, 1/8 or 3/16. Do you know if anyone makes shorter adjustment screws? No I haven't pulled the opposite cover, but the only noise I heard was from the driver side. I thought of taller covers but I don't know if anybody makes taller ones. I saw some that had extra clearance but they were talking about spring keeper clearance. Larry

Check with Smith bros' for adjusters. I bought some from them a couple years ago but haven't compared them to the ones in my crate motor , which is still under construction from having to redo EVERYTHING. I'm putting a hyd. roller in it, more than likely, I already sold the pushrods or I could measure them.

How many threads do you have below the rocker arm ?

Ok John, sorry about the delay, I had to go to my shop which is about three blocks from my computer. I checked all the adjusters on the drivers side,and there or no threads below the rocker arms. That does sound strange but these are the adjusters that came with the engine, but as you said they put them together with what ever they had. I am sure I adjusted them right when I had it apart originally. As best I remember they were tightened down to a clearance(which I don't remember) and then turned 1/2 to 3/4 turn. I had a little card that gave the order they were adjusted in.

I intended to call Arruzza High performance, as they have the Smith adjusters.

I wonder where I could get a pair of adjustable pushrods with the same ends as the Hemi valve adjusters, and I will buy a set of custom pushrods? I am by no means a expert on the subject, but from what I have read, there should be about two to three threads below the rocker and the pushrod must fill the space between the adjuster and the lifter. Larry

Your current pushrods might be hollow ? If they are you could just cut 2 and thread them for fine thread threaded rod, I have done that in the past , otherwise see if a local shop has them and see if they will let you borrow them. Or you could just buy two to have on hand , they aren't that expensive.

You should have a couple of threads showing under the rocker ???

Finally back. I have been pretty busy till now. Hi John, I had read a tech question on the Mopar Action web site about some one had changed the cam on their hemi, and they thought their pushrods were to short afterwards. Rick advised him to turn the adjustment screws till one thread was showing on the underside of the rocker, then adjust an adjustable pushrod to fill the space.( I was wrong about the two or three threads). I have been online most of the morning trying to find adjustable pushrods that are long enough, have cups on one end, and have balls on the other that are the right size to fit the lifter cup.

In my original post I failed to mention that I had changed the cam in my engine during my teardown because of a failed bearing. The cam I replaced the original with was a Mopar kit P4529315AE, which actually has less lift than the original. I can't see that having any effect on the pushrod adjusters hitting the valvecover baffle, but at this point I think I am suffering from brain burnout as this thing is on my mind day and night.

I guess everyone is closed for the holiday, and I won't be able to talk to any techs at Smith Bros. about a pair of adj. pushrods.

Appreciate your replys John. Larry

Cam change SHOULDN'T make a difference .... as long as the base circle is the same and the lifters have the same cup depth as originals. AMC has the same lifter diameter , and is setup for pushrod oiling , but the cup depth is shorter than a mopar lifter.