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i think it'll help keep the frontend stiffend up and not twist as easy but i'm wanting to think that if your quicker than 10.00 you have to have a full cage and all but not sure.

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They stiffen up the chassis,they are not required as part of the roll cage.They should be used when inner fenders and firewall are altered and modified.

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i think it'll help keep the frontend stiffend up and not twist as easy but i'm wanting to think that if your quicker than 10.00 you have to have a full cage and all but not sure.

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They stiffen up the chassis,they are not required as part of the roll cage.They should be used when inner fenders and firewall are altered and modified.

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i think it'll help keep the frontend stiffend up and not twist as easy but i'm wanting to think that if your quicker than 10.00 you have to have a full cage and all but not sure.

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They stiffen up the chassis,they are not required as part of the roll cage.They should be used when inner fenders and firewall are altered and modified.

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My Inner fender walls are still stock.... This car is a 50/50 car it will see as much drag time as street time

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The stiffer the better,we seen most cars that are tied together with a 10,12 or 14 point cages usually 60' better and if your combo is prone to wheelstands we recommend the front bars.

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Here are the Engine Specs:
451 6pac Stroker Stage II ported Edelbrock 84cc heads, 2.14 Intake and 1.81 Exhaust valves.

Stage II street/strip port flowed 285 cfm @550 lift.

The 400 block has been square decked and line honed and sonic checked.

440 Crank forged steel unit.

Compression is 10.95:1 .060 Keith Black KB251 pistons, Rods, factory LY rods w/ ARP rod bolts.

Cam shaft is a Lunati 273/ 279, Lift .578/ .585 @110 cl and 1.6 ratio roller rockers.

The motor is fully balanced to within .2 tenths of a gram.

Mopar 6 pack intake and carbs

Motor made 585 hp and 550 foot lbs torque.....

Dana 60 w 4:56 and a Powr-Loc

325X50X15's on a 10 in Convo Pro Centerline rim

18 spline 4-speed

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Mr Dodge, adding the front down bars will not hurt anything and actually help unibody mopars greatly. They help tie the font section to the back half through the cage. The added weight of those two bars is nothing. Unless this is a rare valuable car add them.

blown, no offense as your work is very nice but all those fancy bends have greatly reduced the structural integrity of the cage and created failure points if something serious should happen. I also question if you will see any benefit at all with your front bars as there will be very little longitudinal loading of them. It appears in the picture that any load will be transfered into flexing and a radial load where they are welded to the plate on the door frame. To be effective the compression and tension loads should be transfered longitudinally through the bar to the cage.

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Forward bars should be tied to the frame rails to be of any structural value and tied into the pillar uprights to maximize the stiffness through out the chassis.Tieing the bars to to the inner fender or attaching them to the firewall serves little purpose.Bolt in applications are permitted in minimal requirment classes for safty but do little to stiffen the chassis.Every bar should serve a purpose for structural intrgrety or rigid strength.To place bars that don't offer integrity or stiffness is only going to be cosmetic and a waste of time and effort.

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Forward bars should be tied to the frame rails to be of any structural value and tied into the pillar uprights to maximize the stiffness through out the chassis.Tieing the bars to to the inner fender or attaching them to the firewall serves little purpose.Bolt in applications are permitted in minimal requirment classes for safty but do little to stiffen the chassis.Every bar should serve a purpose for structural intrgrety or rigid strength.To place bars that don't offer integrity or stiffness is only going to be cosmetic and a waste of time and effort.

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The forward bars are attached in 5 locations,the framerail where they should be the windshield bar where they should be and in 3 other locations to help them in deflection because of the abnormal install of them.We don't just put tubes in a car for cosmetics,I'm WELL aware of the structure of a racecar!

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Comments were general statments and not referring to your set up.Anyone looking close can see how you have tied your cage to the pillars and rails,even with your unconventional routing of your tubes.I don't see anywhere where I referred to your set up.Most chassis builders try and triangulate bars and supports as much as possible.Like you mentioned you have multipule attaching points to compensate for your radial loading,so obiviously you have an understanding of what your doing.That you posted your pictures opens the topic for discussion,positive or negative.That I posted my comments and in no way refrenced anything about your setup didn't require your remarks to me.

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I like to tie mine into the shock tower as well.
Doug

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Same here Doug,we tie the shock tower right to the front bars on most every car with stock inner fenders and especially those that have been cut for fenderwell headers and other clearence issues.