Re: checking bellhousing alignment, nessary?
[Re: dirt]
#207294
01/28/09 11:10 PM
01/28/09 11:10 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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The book says a MAX of .008 run out... it is advised to check it if another bell housing is being used off set dowels are avalible
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Re: checking bellhousing alignment, nessary?
[Re: Blakcharger440]
#207296
01/28/09 11:21 PM
01/28/09 11:21 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
I would like to know how it is done as well. I know they sell offset dowels if the alignment is not correctly oriented.
I would also like to konw if the tools involved are expensive and if there is some way to do it cheaply.
Dial indacator mounted (clamped) to the crank flange, take the reading in the large hole on the bell housing that the trans slides into, turn the crank slowly to watch the indacator
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Re: checking bellhousing alignment, nessary?
[Re: AlexP]
#207299
01/29/09 01:19 AM
01/29/09 01:19 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
This is still the only part of doing my 4-speed swap that I'm not looking forward to.
Its actually quite easy, back when I use to run a stick car I made up a mount that bolted to the flange and held the indacator. It was a 3/8" rod welded to a small plate that bolted to the flange, turned down on the end so I could mount the indacator and adjust it. Once I had the bell housing centered on the crank I tack welded the pins to the block so they wouldnt move. If your smart you do this at the beginning of your engine build up so its just the crank in the block
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Re: checking bellhousing alignment, nessary?
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#207300
01/29/09 01:30 AM
01/29/09 01:30 AM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
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The key is to make sure your indicator DOES NOT MOVE! I did mine 3 or 4 times and got different numbers every time. talk about frustrating!
at least i was able to see the pattern and know which way I had to move my bell, so, while I don't know my exact run-out, I do know that it's between .004 and .008!
all my paperwork said to keep it less than .005 and I've got 3,000 miles on it with no problems, so it must be ok, whatever it is!
**Photobucket sucks**
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Re: checking bellhousing alignment, nessary?
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#207301
01/29/09 01:32 AM
01/29/09 01:32 AM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Even in my limited experience--CHECK IT
My old 440 sixpack car had that awful compact 10 7/8? 11"? clutch, and I had several problems with clean release over the years. I put over 140,000 on that car, but the original engine gave me most of these problems, AND WAS HARD ON pilot bushings Later in it's life, after I swapped in the 340--these problems simply went away
Three of my friends were involved with Lakewood shields in Jeep engine/ trans swaps. Every single one had quality control issues. The worst was to put a Ford toploader 4spd against a Buick V6. The bolt pattern on the face of the bell was ROTATED so that the transfer case hung down at a much greater angle than it should
"We" were not impressed.
It doesn't take very long to check one. Just set a dial up on the bell and check the flywheel for runout on the clutch face
Then set the dial up ON THE flywheel and you can check
The runout/ concentricity of the center hole bore
and reset the needle to the FACE of the bell to check for parallel to the block
Be sure to compensate for front/ rear movement of the crank play in the thrust
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