thinking out loud here, so tell my why im wrong, but I can see these working on the front of an a-body for a whole lot cheaper than SPC or other options. theres got to be a reason im wrong though, just cant see what it is. google has given no results, so either I suck at searching, the first guy to consider it, or it wont work.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-A-Arm-without-Cross-Shaft-Strut-Type-9-Inch,31968.html

only potential hiccup I see is not enough misalignment in the heims to work with the eccentrics.

Looks way weak.


>click this thing<


Maybe a junior Indy type car with no weight and for 12 year old drivers. You know the very entry level type little cars.

Mounting angles are incompatible with the stock mopar mounting area. You WILL need the cross shaft version to mount it or you will need to create a mounting method to support the angles properly. Cross-shaft version will bump up your price an additional $25 per unit.

So if you mount the cross-shaft in the stock mopar position through the inner fender/frame area (which still requires spacers of some sort), then it does beg the question of why go with this unit rather than the tubular version that only costs $30 each, doesn't require as much spacing, are available in a dozen different lengths and offsets, and can have nearly unlimited caster.

These units are used regularly in IMCA modifieds which weigh in at a 2500# minimum and are inspected weekly. Your mileage in a street car weighing 3500# with irregular inspections may vary.

ive used the $30 fixed length arms on a couple of street/autocross GM cars before, and they held up well. fixed length would require some headscratching for me. currently have 15k HARD miles on a set of UB machine arms in my el camino.

thanks for the headsup on the oncompatible angle. I figured there was something I was missing just looking at the picture.

anyone ever tried using the fixed arm version, and if so, how did you do the mounting?

Run the offset Moog bushings. 7* and -1.5, or 8ish and -2.0, or 8.5ish and -2.5 are all alignment numbers I've used, depending on the tires. FWIW, I wear the outer tread corner on street tires at less than -2.2 camber on the road course.

If you want more camber without the caster, get spacers for the lower ball joint to spindle point.

YMMV on the specs. I run the car pretty low, which increases both alignment specs.

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Considering it. Initial thought is drill an appropriate sized hole through the inner fender for a swedged mounting stud to be mounted from the inside, ala chevy style, to be compatible with the control arm mounting. It will need a thin spacer to keep arm pivots off the mounting surface. Still playing with exact length I want and how much anti-dive I want to take out of the mount. I believe using the offset style will put me in the 5-7* caster position with no other spacers. Additional caster after that is easy. Use early chevy truck ball joints for bolt in compatibility and matching spindle taper. Also gives flexibility in alternate roll center ball joint styles. May require some trimming of the frame rail pinch weld for clearance depending on ride height and its resulting control arm angle and travel.