Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2036953
03/23/16 02:58 AM
03/23/16 02:58 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
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Phoenix, AZ
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Last edited by MoPwer; 03/23/16 02:59 AM.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2040281
03/28/16 08:28 AM
03/28/16 08:28 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,666 Buford, GA
I_bleed_MOPAR
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,666
Buford, GA
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Sweet! I'll eventually find another '72-'80 truck (in decent shape, I hope) when I have the time to work on it and room for it. A Utiline would be nice. Here's an old pic of my '78 PW I bought new-
'71 Charger 383/727 '17 Challenger SXT (Wifeys car )
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: I_bleed_MOPAR]
#2043881
04/01/16 09:06 PM
04/01/16 09:06 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
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Phoenix, AZ
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Sweet! I'll eventually find another '72-'80 truck (in decent shape, I hope) when I have the time to work on it and room for it. A Utiline would be nice. Here's an old pic of my '78 PW I bought new- Nice! I've got an old 73 PW rock crawler I finished last year.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2067083
05/04/16 12:06 PM
05/04/16 12:06 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
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OP
super stock
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Phoenix, AZ
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Debating on going straight to ladder bars when I do the 60. I really would like to keep them on the outside of the frame and use the front spring mount for the bars. I'll have to build my own but any thoughts on this? The reason for wanting to do it this way is so I can keep my stock fuel tank.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2067375
05/04/16 07:57 PM
05/04/16 07:57 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
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OP
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Phoenix, AZ
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Maybe I should just keep it simple and tune some leaf springs and Caltracs.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: Rhinodart]
#2067680
05/05/16 12:09 PM
05/05/16 12:09 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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The leaf springs and Caltracs will work fine and save time AND money, cool build! Thanks. That does seem to be the more sensible option.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2067729
05/05/16 01:31 PM
05/05/16 01:31 PM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 142 Chattanooga, TN
KDY
member
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member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 142
Chattanooga, TN
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Great looking truck! I'm glad to see more people building trucks. I went with a '69 mustang gas tank - check out posts #1220272 and #1220292 on this link: https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...tml#Post1220262I'm using stock leafs on mine. Leaf technology has come a long way over the years. People are going 1.10 60ft on them so a set of Caltracs or Assassins should do the trick.
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: KDY]
#2068353
05/06/16 03:42 PM
05/06/16 03:42 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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Great looking truck! I'm glad to see more people building trucks. I went with a '69 mustang gas tank - check out posts #1220272 and #1220292 on this link: https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...tml#Post1220262I'm using stock leafs on mine. Leaf technology has come a long way over the years. People are going 1.10 60ft on them so a set of Caltracs or Assassins should do the trick. Did you remove some leaves? I seem to recall mine having more.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: 68dodge]
#2068410
05/06/16 05:52 PM
05/06/16 05:52 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
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Phoenix, AZ
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Nice truck, looks great lowered. Getting close to setting my 505 in. Any other pics of your roll bar? Looks pretty tidy.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2068509
05/06/16 10:15 PM
05/06/16 10:15 PM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 142 Chattanooga, TN
KDY
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member
Joined: Jun 2005
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Chattanooga, TN
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Did you remove some leaves? I seem to recall mine having more. No. I actually added an extra main leaf.
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2074574
05/16/16 03:59 PM
05/16/16 03:59 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 516 ,Pa.
68dodge
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jan 2003
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,Pa.
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Nice truck, looks great lowered. Getting close to setting my 505 in. Any other pics of your roll bar? Looks pretty tidy. Here is one for you.
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2075230
05/17/16 05:13 PM
05/17/16 05:13 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
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Joined: Jul 2003
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Phoenix, AZ
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Anyone have a rear sump big block oil pan set up they want to donate or sell?
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: 68dodge]
#2075507
05/18/16 12:53 AM
05/18/16 12:53 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
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Phoenix, AZ
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Nice truck, looks great lowered. Getting close to setting my 505 in. Any other pics of your roll bar? Looks pretty tidy. Here is one for you. Nice! Kit or custom?
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2077595
05/21/16 11:13 AM
05/21/16 11:13 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 516 ,Pa.
68dodge
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jan 2003
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,Pa.
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Nice truck, looks great lowered. Getting close to setting my 505 in. Any other pics of your roll bar? Looks pretty tidy. Here is one for you. Nice! Kit or custom? Kit was from Jegs, cut to fit youself, hoop was very tight to get in.
Last edited by 68dodge; 05/21/16 11:14 AM.
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2079017
05/23/16 08:55 PM
05/23/16 08:55 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
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OP
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Joined: Jul 2003
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Phoenix, AZ
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Anyone successfully use A Body big block Fenderwell headers on their 2wd truck? I'm reading it should work, but no pics.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2082242
05/29/16 12:07 PM
05/29/16 12:07 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
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OP
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Joined: Jul 2003
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Phoenix, AZ
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Not doing fender well headers after all. They make it tough to use a balance pipe.
The biggest truck header I can find is 1-3/4" primaries. Anyone know if there are affordable 1-7/8" that will fit? Some say the B&E headers will fit.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2145949
09/02/16 08:33 AM
09/02/16 08:33 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,788 Hamilton, Ontario Canada
Magnum
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master
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Hamilton, Ontario Canada
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Debating on going straight to ladder bars when I do the 60. Avoid the ladders for street use. I know its not your rock crawler but ladders do not allow for any articulation. Save those for big tire drag strip use only. Love the build. Big block in a 78. ☺
69 Super Bee, 93 Mustang LX, 04 Allure Super
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: Magnum]
#2150160
09/08/16 03:14 AM
09/08/16 03:14 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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Yeah, I'm leaning towards bagging the thing. Never had a street vehicle with bags and I understand they ride really well.
Last edited by MoPwer; 09/09/16 05:56 PM.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2245707
02/02/17 01:38 AM
02/02/17 01:38 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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Well, it runs. Had to rebuild the carb. Scrapped the header idea for now. Found a set of manifolds. Couldn't find the correct shift and kick down linkages, so I got some from other vehicles and made it work. Next will be to narrow the Dana 60. Then I can have the driveshaft shortened and then fill the trans with fluid.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2246106
02/02/17 08:49 PM
02/02/17 08:49 PM
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,886 Lost and Spaced
bboogieart
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master
Joined: Jan 2008
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Lost and Spaced
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Good to see. Got me hyped about working on my '76.
I have mechanical Aptitude. I can screw up anything.
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2248485
02/06/17 02:36 PM
02/06/17 02:36 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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Question: What size U-Joints are you guys running on your big blocks? 7290 or 7260? My drive shaft has a wallowed out end and I need a new one anyway. I can just replace it with another 7260 or I could upgrade to the larger 7290. Of course I'd need new yokes to match which doubles the cost.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: 440_Offroader]
#2248563
02/06/17 04:09 PM
02/06/17 04:09 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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It's a SunPro. There is a write up on the interwebs. Some modification is involved.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2249111
02/07/17 02:53 PM
02/07/17 02:53 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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I actually have a 1350 yoke for the 60 on the shelf from my rock crawler before I went to the 1410s. Maybe I'll just go that route. Would save me some of the cost of upgrading.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2249698
02/08/17 02:18 PM
02/08/17 02:18 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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Talked myself into going the 1350 route. Good discussion with myself too! New slip yoke ordered.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: Jwilli500]
#2249857
02/08/17 07:12 PM
02/08/17 07:12 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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Yeah, but people tend to look at me funny when I do.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: 52savoy]
#2250815
02/10/17 01:41 AM
02/10/17 01:41 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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It's too late but next time your motor is out it would be a good idea to box the front frame. Mine is boxed and I also have a piece of 1 1/2" round tubing running across at the steering box to tie-in both sides. I plan on doing the whole chassis (boxed and cross members) at a later date when I redo the whole truck. I just want to drive it now.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2251483
02/11/17 09:49 AM
02/11/17 09:49 AM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487 Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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Anyone successfully use A Body big block Fenderwell headers on their 2wd truck? I'm reading it should work, but no pics. NO, but I did bolt a A-body 8 3/4 on top of the leafs with a rear shackle flip to tuck 12" rims with 29x15x15 M/Ts in the fenders of both my trucks. the flip flop works well with the stock leafs only but set you up for a nice set of cal-tracs = they already build them for the trucks for axle over spring. both my trucks have the flip flop with a-body 8 3/4. but I am swaping a E-body in the stepside now to tuck 10" rims in there with a mud tire. going fishing LOL! a-body share same 43" perch centers and is a bolt in. I even run the a-body SSM lift bars (looks old skool traction bar)
Last edited by scratchnfotraction; 02/11/17 09:58 AM.
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2251485
02/11/17 10:02 AM
02/11/17 10:02 AM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487 Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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both run a stock front end with sway bar. just flip flop the rear and tub the bed.
Member Clutch runs flip flop with cal-tracs, hand built outside the frame BB headers. here he is in acton.
I would say this works good for stock leafs.
Last edited by scratchnfotraction; 02/11/17 10:02 AM.
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: 77ProStreet]
#2251929
02/11/17 11:46 PM
02/11/17 11:46 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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When you weld the ends on your Dana 60, do you need to gut the thing or can you weld with the gears in? Technically, you could. I'd put something in the tube to keep the weld crap out of the center section. I've got a fixing jig that requires the diff be removed at least. I went ahead and stripped it down (no crush sleeve ). The inside was filthy from the LS diff, so I needed to clean it anyway. I'll just tack the ends with the jig in then remove it for the final welding. I really want to weld the new spring perches on first just in case there is some warping. But before all of that, I need to get the lowering shackles and new Ubolts. Going to go back to spring over. It was too low with them under.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#2251941
02/12/17 12:00 AM
02/12/17 12:00 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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Anyone successfully use A Body big block Fenderwell headers on their 2wd truck? I'm reading it should work, but no pics. NO, but I did bolt a A-body 8 3/4 on top of the leafs with a rear shackle flip to tuck 12" rims with 29x15x15 M/Ts in the fenders of both my trucks. the flip flop works well with the stock leafs only but set you up for a nice set of cal-tracs = they already build them for the trucks for axle over spring. both my trucks have the flip flop with a-body 8 3/4. but I am swaping a E-body in the stepside now to tuck 10" rims in there with a mud tire. going fishing LOL! a-body share same 43" perch centers and is a bolt in. I even run the a-body SSM lift bars (looks old skool traction bar) I like this better. And look what I found in my scrap pile. Leftovers from when I built the rockcrawler. Should have what I need!
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: CrAzYMoPaRGuY]
#2251964
02/12/17 12:27 AM
02/12/17 12:27 AM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487 Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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What backspace on your 15x12 wheels Scratchnfotraction?? 4.5 backspace. 1/2" at tire bulge and leaf spring on a body housing/large brakes the e-body housing going in the 85 stepside will get a 10x15 with 4" backspace 275/60/15
Last edited by scratchnfotraction; 02/12/17 12:28 AM.
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2252699
02/13/17 12:26 AM
02/13/17 12:26 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
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Phoenix, AZ
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Dana 60 is done. Narrowed about 5" more than the stock 8-1/4. Should be about B-Body width. 3:55 gears with a clutch LS diff. Wheels are 8-1/2" wide with 3.5" BS. Should be just about perfect when I go to 10" wide wheels with the same tires. I moved the axle back 1" to center it better in the wheel well. Still need to run the brake lines and lift the bed so I can drill the last holes for shackle flip.
Last edited by MoPwer; 02/20/17 12:42 PM. Reason: Corrected how much I narrowed the axle
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: 68dodge]
#2252764
02/13/17 02:03 AM
02/13/17 02:03 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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Nice truck, looks great lowered. Getting close to setting my 505 in. 68dodge, how did you get the front that low without riding on the bump stops all the time?
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2253794
02/14/17 11:55 PM
02/14/17 11:55 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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Well, the alternator wasn't charging because the voltage regulator was bad. Had an original on hand that fixed it.
Struggling to get those old stamped steel valve covers to seal. Any recommendations?? Done them twice now and no luck. Tried the regular cork and the thick high temp both with Ultra Gray sealer. They aren't slipping out.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2253877
02/15/17 01:53 AM
02/15/17 01:53 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 516 ,Pa.
68dodge
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 516
,Pa.
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Mopwer. Bump stops are removed. Truck now has tubular upper control arms. Truck also has spindle that are machined to fit. Setting the suspension up for street and drag racing. I should say more drag set up.
Last edited by 68dodge; 02/15/17 01:54 AM.
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2254306
02/15/17 11:26 PM
02/15/17 11:26 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,525 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Posts: 10,525
Freeport IL USA
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Well, the alternator wasn't charging because the voltage regulator was bad. Had an original on hand that fixed it.
Struggling to get those old stamped steel valve covers to seal. Any recommendations?? Done them twice now and no luck. Tried the regular cork and the thick high temp both with Ultra Gray sealer. They aren't slipping out. The old 70s big block steel valve covers with exhaust manifolds were a pita to seal. If you got the gasket to seal on the tin, the heat from the exhaust manifolds would cook the bottom edge of the gaskets. Often the area around the bolt holes would be pulled down towards the head, and the covers would leak between the bolts. Usually, every time you replaced the gaskets, you needed to flip the covers upside down, and set the area around the bolt holes on a flat surface, and tap the covers flat with a hammer. You need to flatten all 6 holes, but usually the two bottom corners were the worst. You want to look the covers over well, after several beatings (er, I mean flattenings), they tend to crack around the cover base where it flattens out for the gasket. Those cracks will drive you nuts thinking the gaskets are leaking, when its actually the cracks in the covers themselves. If you have installed a couple sets of gaskets, you need to flatten the area around the cover bolts, and you really need to look for cracks. With the manifolds, there is a lot of heat retained across the bottom of the covers. If you do not use the high temp gaskets, you will be replacing the gaskets at least every year. If you can add manifold gaskets, or space the manifold away from the head, even 1/8", it will extend the valve cover gasket life a bunch. At any rate, you need to be sure nothing is building up between the manifold and the cover, if air isn't passing between them, the gaskets don't stand a chance. Gene
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: poorboy]
#2254435
02/16/17 03:20 AM
02/16/17 03:20 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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Well, the alternator wasn't charging because the voltage regulator was bad. Had an original on hand that fixed it.
Struggling to get those old stamped steel valve covers to seal. Any recommendations?? Done them twice now and no luck. Tried the regular cork and the thick high temp both with Ultra Gray sealer. They aren't slipping out. The old 70s big block steel valve covers with exhaust manifolds were a pita to seal. If you got the gasket to seal on the tin, the heat from the exhaust manifolds would cook the bottom edge of the gaskets. Often the area around the bolt holes would be pulled down towards the head, and the covers would leak between the bolts. Usually, every time you replaced the gaskets, you needed to flip the covers upside down, and set the area around the bolt holes on a flat surface, and tap the covers flat with a hammer. You need to flatten all 6 holes, but usually the two bottom corners were the worst. You want to look the covers over well, after several beatings (er, I mean flattenings), they tend to crack around the cover base where it flattens out for the gasket. Those cracks will drive you nuts thinking the gaskets are leaking, when its actually the cracks in the covers themselves. If you have installed a couple sets of gaskets, you need to flatten the area around the cover bolts, and you really need to look for cracks. With the manifolds, there is a lot of heat retained across the bottom of the covers. If you do not use the high temp gaskets, you will be replacing the gaskets at least every year. If you can add manifold gaskets, or space the manifold away from the head, even 1/8", it will extend the valve cover gasket life a bunch. At any rate, you need to be sure nothing is building up between the manifold and the cover, if air isn't passing between them, the gaskets don't stand a chance. Gene No cracks and the gaskets on it right now are the high temp. I also try to straighten the flange all the way around before putting it all back together. I ordered another set that has the steel insert. I guess I'll find out where they are leaking when I pull them off. I have heard of some folks using a contact adhesive to stick the gasket to the valve cover before installing them. That way it won't move when snugging them down. I have some sheet metal that I will be fabricating some heat shields for the manifolds.
Last edited by MoPwer; 02/16/17 03:21 AM.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: 440_Offroader]
#2255994
02/19/17 02:48 PM
02/19/17 02:48 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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The truck looks good and I love the wheels! Not sure if it's the 4x4 guy in me, but the tires seem a little small in the back? Maybe the fenders look so big! Good job on the D60. It looks perfect under the truck. Great job. Thanks. The rear tires are the 275s I had on the 8.5" wheels. After I melt those, I'll put on 295s
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: poorboy]
#2255996
02/19/17 02:50 PM
02/19/17 02:50 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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If the new rear tires are still as close to the inside box floor as the earlier picture shows, your going to have some serious tire rub. To assume a leaf spring axle doesn't move side to side a bit is a bad assumption. There needs to be at least 3/4" between the widest point on the side of the tire, and any body structure. At 3/4". some rub may occur, but less then 3/4" damage can happen. Years ago I had a couple sidewall damaged tires and a tore up inner fender to prove my point. Gene They had about 3/4" before. Now there is over 1.25" clearance. The extra width pulled the tire bulge away from the inner wheel well. I narrowed the rear width specifically for these wheel specs.
Last edited by MoPwer; 02/19/17 02:52 PM.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2256486
02/20/17 09:58 AM
02/20/17 09:58 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,666 Buford, GA
I_bleed_MOPAR
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,666
Buford, GA
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Lookin' good. Only problem is you're making me want another one. Tim
'71 Charger 383/727 '17 Challenger SXT (Wifeys car )
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2261450
03/01/17 01:56 AM
03/01/17 01:56 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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Driveshaft showed up today. Installed that and started it up. Warmed it up but it wasn't idling very well. Then it started missing. Checked all the plug wires with the timing light. All good. Pulled the plugs and they all looked ok. Checked the compression and they were all 125-135psi EXCEPT for #1. 0 psi. Nothing... Pulled the drivers side valve cover and turned the engine over by hand. Rockers were opening and closing the valves. Used my borescope to check the combustion chamber and the piston. All looked ok from what I could tell and the piston was going up and down. I just called it for tonight. Next will be a leak-down test to see where the compression is going. After thinking about it, it is probably excessive lifter preload. They did have .060-.080" but they were no where near bottoming out. I read that some folks just bolt them up without issues. I guess that they were just lucky. So I either need custom pushrods or a set of adjustable rockers with the cup style pushrods. The pushrods would be less expensive, but I could go to 1.6 ratio rockers with the adjustable type if I have enough clearance.
Last edited by MoPwer; 03/01/17 07:22 AM. Reason: Figured out the issue
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2261921
03/01/17 11:26 PM
03/01/17 11:26 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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Nope. Couldn't be that easy. There is some other reason the exhaust valve isn't sealing. Brought the piston up to TDC on the compression stroke and put air pressure in the cyl. It was coming out the tailpipe. Going to pull the exhaust manifold and see what I can see. Heads were built with new valves and components.
Last edited by MoPwer; 03/02/17 10:59 PM.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2262392
03/02/17 11:50 PM
03/02/17 11:50 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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Pulled the exhaust manifold off and the rocker assembly. Put air pressure in the cylinder and it's definitely coming out the exhaust valve. I can see that it is open using my bore scope. The guide is either too tight or the valve is bent somehow. Either way, the heads have to come off.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: Webster]
#2263012
03/04/17 12:46 AM
03/04/17 12:46 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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Love your truck... Thanks, man. Wish I could drive the damn thing...
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2263840
03/05/17 06:00 PM
03/05/17 06:00 PM
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,886 Lost and Spaced
bboogieart
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,886
Lost and Spaced
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You'll get there. A lot quicker than I will.
I have mechanical Aptitude. I can screw up anything.
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2264694
03/07/17 01:57 AM
03/07/17 01:57 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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Took the heads back to the shop and they took the offending valve out. It wasn't a tight guide. Somehow something melted to the valve shank when it was open and it jammed into the guide. You could drop the valve in the guide upside down and it was free until it hit the bad spot on the valve. No idea what it was.
He offered to get another valve and install it but I just had him file down the spot since it was only about 1/4" from the end of the guide when closed, polish it, resurface the valve, ream the guide and reinstall.
Since I was in the neighborhood, I dropped them off at my machinist to machine the valve cover sealing surface. It was pretty rough and I can't get them to seal. Should fix that problem. Should be done next week.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2280459
04/01/17 06:07 PM
04/01/17 06:07 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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I was taking the heads apart to clean them and found 2 more tight exhaust valves with the same galling. I talked to my engine builder buddy and he thinks that the cheap valves I bought for it weren't hardened properly. So, now I'm looking for a set of SS valves. He also talked me into porting the bowls while they are apart. They will be getting 2.08 intakes but the bigger 1.74 exhaust valves.
Last edited by MoPwer; 04/01/17 06:07 PM.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2284919
04/09/17 05:47 PM
04/09/17 05:47 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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While I'm waiting for the new valves, I decided to do some pocket porting on the exhaust. Opening the bowls should help quite a bit. Was able to conservatively open them up 0.100". Also the exhaust manifold ports were way off on the outer cylinders so I fixed that too.
Last edited by MoPwer; 04/10/17 11:58 AM.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2289214
04/17/17 02:00 AM
04/17/17 02:00 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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When the shop rebuilt the heads they put .029" spacers under all of the springs. When I measure the installed spring height (without the spacer), I'm getting 1.86" with calipers. From what I've read, this is the bottom of spec. I put a dial indicator on the cam to check lift and got .288". With the rocker ratio being 1.5:1, that should give me .432" max lift. I put one of my springs in a vice and compressed it until it was almost bound up. That measurement was 1.325". If you take the installed spring height 1.86" and subtract the max lift .432" that gives you a compressed spring height of 1.428". If you subtract the spacer they had in there you get a new compressed spring height of 1.399". Is that enough extra room to keep from messing something up? It's only about .074"? Do I need to have a spacer on the spring seat at all?
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2296979
05/01/17 07:44 AM
05/01/17 07:44 AM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,400 Trumbauersville PA
ric3xrt
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,400
Trumbauersville PA
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These trucks look awesome with a Dana under them. just picked up a SRT 10 Dana, for my 03 Project. Have a Dana under the 75 D100 and the Lil Red 440 swap .
Last edited by ric3xrt; 05/01/17 07:58 AM. Reason: for got photo
Truth has no agenda, but those with an agenda make their own truth. Some of us are so open minded they only see their View
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2297064
05/01/17 12:11 PM
05/01/17 12:11 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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Clog was the brake cylinders. Replaced those. Also rerouted the brakeline to the rear. Someone replaced it at some point and ran it outside the rail. Dirt packed in between the frame rail and the tank corroded the original. Cleaned all of that out as well as the gas tank.
Fixed the fuel sending unit wire and the gauge still isn't working. I'll have to track that down. Could be the gauge. Sending unit was working.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2297067
05/01/17 12:16 PM
05/01/17 12:16 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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Drove it on the street yesterday. It's idling a little high and cuts out at higher RPM. Not sure the secondaries are opening. I'll check that today. Also looks like it's running lean at cruising speed. May have to adjust the metering rod tree or change the jets/metering rods.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2308704
05/21/17 09:04 PM
05/21/17 09:04 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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Got a jet kit and increased the primary jets 6 sizes and it's running a lot better but still cutting out when the rpms get up around maybe 4000 or so. No tach, only guessing. Not sure what is causing it. Tried adjusting the timing and no change. Swapped to a small Edelbrock carb, no change.
Any ideas? Thinking maybe a sloppy timing set or plugs. I reused the double roller timing set. Didn't think it was very loose but I don't know. Plugs are auto lite 85 gapped to stock spec.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2308739
05/21/17 09:39 PM
05/21/17 09:39 PM
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 735 Pa. U.S.A.
moparborn
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 735
Pa. U.S.A.
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Possibility of valve float? Fuel delivery?
Last edited by moparborn; 05/21/17 09:42 PM.
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: moparborn]
#2308770
05/21/17 10:02 PM
05/21/17 10:02 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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Possibility of valve float? Fuel delivery? Swapped carbs with no change. I would think that valve float would just cause it to nose over not miss.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2308776
05/21/17 10:17 PM
05/21/17 10:17 PM
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 735 Pa. U.S.A.
moparborn
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 735
Pa. U.S.A.
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Running out of fuel(causing leaning out also possible cause of miss fire),week pump,in tank pickup restricted,fuel flow to the carb?Fuel pressure gauge to verify? Coil heating up,pickup coil,but would also heat up over time.
Last edited by moparborn; 05/21/17 10:19 PM.
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: moparborn]
#2308848
05/21/17 11:54 PM
05/21/17 11:54 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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Running out of fuel(causing leaning out also possible cause of miss fire),week pump,in tank pickup restricted,fuel flow to the carb?Fuel pressure gauge to verify? Coil heating up,pickup coil,but would also heat up over time. That's what I thought which is why I tried another carb. I also have a wide band O2 sensor that still shows rich (12:1). I'm using an aftermarket coil (Acel Super Stock). I do still have the original that I can try. Anyway to test the dizzy? It still has the electronic ignition that was on the original /6 if that makes any difference.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: MoPwer]
#2355243
08/17/17 01:44 AM
08/17/17 01:44 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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So... I suspected the ignition system. Found a billet ready to run ProComp distributor (I can hear the grumbles now) on Craigslist for cheap. Removed the Mopar electronic ignition, distributor, coil and wiring. Reconfigured it for the ready to run with their recommended coil and it will actually run out the back door now! It still doesn't have the power it should.
I did some horse trading for a Mopar M1 single plane and it runs harder in the upper rpms than it did with the cast intake. I also found a Weiand tunnel ram with 2 Edelbrock 1407 carbs for a good price. I'm rebuilding the carbs now. I know. Both bad matches for the engine. I do have a plan.
The cam sounds like it has some lifters that won't stay pumped up. When you start it cold, it sounds like it is missing. Rev it a little end it goes away and doesn't come back. I now have a Hughes Performance Whiplash cam, lifters and valve springs ready to replace the stock set. This cam is made for low compression engines and it is installed advanced to build dynamic cyl compression. Sounds great at idle too!
Once I get my buddies FJ60 out of the garage (installed efi on it), I'll get started on the cam swap. Near future plan will be FItech dual fuel bodies (good for 1200hp naturally aspirated) on the tunnel ram also controlling the timing. The $ I make from the FJ work will almost get me the EFI for my truck. I wish it would fit under the stock hood, but not with air cleaners installed. I'll try it with the hood off for a while then I'm probably going to a lift off fiberglass hood with a 6 pack scoop or I'll just cut a hole in the hood.
I'm also going to be parting out my rock crawler and using some parts for this truck including the efi fuel tank from a 98 Grand Cherokee. It will go behind the rear axle like I used to have it in the Powerwagon before it was converted.
Last edited by MoPwer; 08/17/17 01:46 AM.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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Re: 78 Utiline Build
[Re: 68dodge]
#2355245
08/17/17 01:46 AM
08/17/17 01:46 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700 Phoenix, AZ
MoPwer
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 700
Phoenix, AZ
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Try setting your timing at 12-14 degrees with no vacuum advance. Run it with no vacuum advance and see how it acts. I wasn't using the vac advance and had the heavy advance spring removed.
-78 Utiline (5.7 Hemi)
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