Which pan sump do i need for a lo deck in an 67 A body? seen a nice stefs aluminum pan in the for sale section.

Most center sump pans will work,but the distance from the front pan rail to the sump I think has to be 5". This means the oil pan for a E-body like the Milodon 6qt unit wont work.

ok, thanks chris, just want i needed to know.

You will need clearance for the idler arm also

ok

I used a Mopar low profile 6 quart 1970/71 Hemi and 440 6 pak oil pan in my old Duster, I did slide the motor back one inch with elephant ears up front and I had to slot the stock V8 tranny mount to make it fit that way I did need to grind a tiny little bit, around a 1/4 inch, off of the K member rear lip on the passenger side front edge that was near the oil pan corner I also slid the rear end forward one inch with ladder bars and coil overs while stretching the rear wheel wells so I could put a bigger rim and tires on it for the increase power That car was almost 50 % weight on the front and back with me in it

If you have a choice among more than 1 that fits, you want:
1st: deepest "full" level and lowest pickup position
2nd: highest volume up to the pan rail (not just to the "full" level)

Can i get an off the shelf pan for this combo?

Moroso 8 ot pan fits,as does the Mopar 6 qt. Milodon has the pan that is a low profile,it fits too.I've used all 3 pans I've mentioned in a BB/A body car.

Ok thanks again chris.

charliesoilpans.com will build you a pan if needed

moneys very tight right now with this build. starting from cratch sucks, so will be getting the moroso 8qt pan Chris mentioned. found it at jegs for $134. very affordable right now. thanks

Same pan on Ebag from KMJ Performance...about 80 bucks...

What is your intended RPM ?

milidon oilpump single static pickup milidon low profile 7 quart oilpan 7000 rpm,s

thanks chris. 6500rpm ceiling.

Dave you wouldnt happen to have a link to this pan would you?

no but jegs had it. Ill see if i can find the part number.

been searching for that pan. Cannot find it. It was a black 8qt center sump bb moroso pan. Part number started with 500. Ill look harder when i get home.

The only reason i ask is because the only advertised one i could find that was 8qt for a good price was this one
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar-Performance/312/P5007816/10002/-1
And was curious if this is the same one or if i was just overlooking it?

yes, that is the pan and i was wrong on the price. thats the pan i would like to try. will that pan work with my combo?

I used that pan in my 440 dart, revving to 6700 for over 5 yrs and i intend to use it with my low deck stroker as well.
Mick

cool, sounds like a good pan.

I have this pan for sale in the race section. It came out of a BB A-body car. The pan had to be modified to clear the idler arm. That is one thing to watch out for in an A body car, it the pan doesn't have that clearance then you'll need to be modify the pan.

Didnt know those pans needed clearancing like that for A body. Do all bb pans need mods like that to fit A bodies?

The factory type pans are IIRC "187" and "499" part numbers. they have a feature that's not as deep, and more rounded to clear the idler arm.

Every pan needs some kind of clearance for a bb a body, or you lose some turning. Im not sure if the cheap deep sump pans on eBay clear or not but they have the whole right side bent up to clear. Are you using 67-72 or 73+ steering?

yes 67 barracuda factory steering.

Yeah you need a clearanced pan. If you can't weld, just buy the pan from andyf. Ive seen some guys that still had to ad more clearance to the c body pans,while!e it worked for others. I think the 73+ steering may clear a pan with no notch but I'm not positive, it wont swap over to a 67 k frame without cutting and welding anyway. On my 74 duster I used the c body pan that I put a baffle in, just because I had it, I don't think it needed it.

Yep! Had to do that with my 440 source Pan. Also cut out and reboxed K frame.I had a little more of a problem because of girdle. (dropped things down a little more)

Milodon Road Race pan, low profile with great baffling. You MAY need to clearance the K-member, The k members are not very consistent in construction. The only downside of the Milodon pan is they aren't cheap, but neither are engines....

A 440source pan hit the K-frame significantly (B engine in stock position with AR motor plate) and I didn't feel like notching the K. I tried a Milodon center sump pan and it did fit (barely), but still bumped the steering linkage in the area shown.

So I clearanced it with a BFH. Looks ugly but nobody can see it under there anyway!
Although if it ever comes off again I'll have someone cut & weld a neat notch like Andy's

Milidon road race pan on my 68 Valiant

I am using the Milodon 7qt with external oiling. Part Number 30931.

Engine is a low deck stroker, stock steering box and idler, QA1 upper and lower control arms. Factory 318 torsion bars... Lakewood scatter shield with Jerico 4-Speed.....

-Dave

Another vote for the road race pan. I went through 2 7 qt pans, 1 Milodon, 1 Moroso due to ground clearance issues (admittedly we live on a road that people with Jeeps comment on its condition). If I had bought the road race pan it would have cost the same as the total of the two pans plus I still had to bu the road race pan. This is on a 70 Road Runner so can not speak to K members, steering etc. Even on the B body it would have been easier to install from underneath with that pan but hopefully you install the engine on an irregular basis..... Once in no issues on the clearance front.

This is the pan CAB sold me. says it fits A body with least resistance. I haven't installed it yet.