I'm going to take out the k-member on my 70 Cuda so I can clean it up and paint it. I tried a quick test to see how difficult it would be to loosen the 4 bolts and the first one i tried is in their rock solid (I assume the rest are the same way).

The bolts are not rusty but I'm sure they are in there pretty good. I doubt anyone has ever taken out the k-member since it was installed at the factory.

What are some tips and tricks you guys have for removing these bolts?

-Thanks

I've always just used a good 1/2" impact gun and they come right out.

If you don't have a good enough one, could always just go with a breaker bar and bit of pipe for handle extension if need be for more leverage.

Big, long breaker bar or oxy-acetylene torch.

Drill a mini hole in the subframe on the insides at the right height just big enough to fit a thin red straw into & blast it good with WD40 every day for several days

Took the K member out of my 65 Cuda, don't remember needing anything special to get them out. I might of used my impact gun on it, but I forget.

I do, however, vividly remember taking the K member out of a 79 Newport, that one put me in the hospital for stitches. The captured nut the bolt screwed into had broken free (this was a real rust Texas coast car) and I was using a pickle fork to apply downward pressure in the gap between the K and the frame rails when the fork slipped out and smacked me upside the head. Got 5 stitches on the side of my head where the bone is between the eye and temple. I was using an impact gun then.

Originally it came off easy enough. But when I took it off recently one of the four bolts was a [censored] and took a lot of effort. I had cad plated the bolts and it showed signs of rust.

(If the 1/2" gun don't do it, a 3/4" will...)

The torque applied ain't the problem, it is (as said) on a toughie you dont wanna break off the welded nut on the inside with the bolt still threaded into it. Yes with enough grunt put to it it will come loose (& most do) but on occaision the nut itself will break loose & you dont want that to happen

Love taps with the 3/4...


Just enough to bust it loose...

Air chisel straight up into the bolt head with a blunt round bit. Try to tighten the bolt first a 1/8 turn or less. Then start to remove. If it starts to bind up tighten /loosen a little in each direction. I've taken many a rusty bolt out with out breaking them or the weld nut in the frame. Patience is the key.
Doug

OR, you could use a good penetrating lubricant and it will work even better.

Look closely at the frame rails you can find access spots to get the straw in there and shoot them with PB Blaster or equivilent...Work them a little each direction if it's tight... Once you snap the cage from the frame it's all over..

Keep in mind these aren't hardware store bolts. You don't want to bust the welded nut off but you don't want to ruin a bolt either!!

Agreed, there are better choices than the WD40 I mentioned (Kroil/PB blaster & I'm sure others)

Well if the car has always been a Southwestern car then get an impact gun and go at it.
If it's a rust belt car then you might want to lube them first and take your time removing them.
There are holes at the front of the frames that you can shoot some lube onto the front bolts. Will probably have to drill holes for the rear bolts.
I can't begin to count how may frames I've pulled and never have any problems from Western cars but rust belt one can be more work.

An Impact will be needed, and is better than just tugging with a breaker bar and long pipe. The impact will help to break the bolt loose. I use an IR 2131 impact gun, also the earthquake guns from HF are good.

Any of the Rubber biscuit mount K frames ( I think 73 and later) are going to be trouble. The older stuff normally comes apart with no problems.

Take a photo or measure the edge to edge location of the frame before you take it apart, and try to return to the same spot.

Okay you guys have me a little nervous now with breaking the welded nut.

This car is a western car and has minimal rust on it so I don't think the bolt it rusted in. I don't have an air compressor so i will have to use a breaker bar.

I'm thinking I will drill a small hole and use PB blaster. I will try the breaker bar and if I can get it to budge then I most likely throw in the towel and clean the k-member and paint it in place. This is not ideal but better then breaking a nut and having a bigger problem.

As said soak them with PB blaster.. Overnight. Bump it with the impact. If it's rotted enough to fail it's gonna fail. Fix it and move on. I had a Chicago car that was a royal PITA to get out but working slowly and soaking it came out. I'd use caution with a torch on these parts. As in I wouldn't.

As said bump the breaker bar as opposed to a steady pull (same principle as the impact). Odds are you will be fine (Do ya feel lucky?)

This is the ticket. If a very small turn counterclockwise doesn't loosen the bolt, go clockwise a very small turn. Repeat. And add some heat if needed.

If you ruin one, get new ones here, bottom of page 114:

http://www.amkproducts.com/Catalog_PDF/109-127.pdf