Practicing what I preach

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OpmejSYEol0

My luck will be the FAST unit I have won't like COP or the pro mag lol

Thought i share a pic I was final able to get the turbos semi mocked up in the Ttoad its been along time coming. Things are progressing along and work looks like its slowing down so lets hope i can continue to make some progress and have my junk ready for this summer.

I am exploring my cam sync options on turbo /6. Since it will be a coil per plug set-up, I can ditch the distributor and would like to clean up that area anyway. Can I simply install/mount a magnet to the front cam sprocket and mount an adjustable pickup thru the sheet metal timing chain cover? My 60-2 reluctor solution is already figured out.
If so, do I want the magnet closer or farther from the rotating center of the cam? Do I have to be concerned if drilling with any loss of strength, or balance, since motor will never be over 5k and cam speed is half that?

Mounting a cam sync off the timing cover is a great way to go. I have done this many times. The process is buying a cam sync sensor like the MSD 2346 and installing the magnet in the cam gear (drill and epoxy in the magnet). There are some considerations:
1) If the cam gear is ferrous you must isolate the magnet with the aluminum collar that comes with it.
2) The magnet has a N and S end. You must mount it with the N side out. If at all possible you should check the signal from the sensor before committing. I have had several 2346s when the N/S wasn't marked at all. It must be positive going first. I check my magnets on the bench, with a wood wheel mounted to a drill, and an oscilloscope first.

3) Sheet metal timing covers are flimsy and pretty thin. The sensor screws in, so if a cast cover is not available add a stiffener on the outside to give you some thread thickness.
4) Decide on the EFI system first so you will know what the cam signal timing must be.

It'll work great!

If you really want to go COP, then I would strongly suggest the Holley-EFI HP or Dominator rather than FAST. Much easier to set up, smaller, coil drivers inside one box, etc ...

I forgot to answer your other question. You want as much velocity past the sensor so mount the magnet near the outer edge of the cam gear. The signal is RPM dependent, so this affects only starting, but it IS a consideration.

Worst case you can always just cut the rotor off a dizzy, grind off reluctor teeth leaving one for the cam signal, then make a dust cap. That works fine too. Now you have an engine position sensor that can be adjusted on the fly.

Thanks, that all helps a lot. I was thinking of building up a reinforced indexable pickup on the timing chain cover, for the two reasons you mentioned, adjustability, and stiffness. That was related to my question on mounting distance to center of the cam, smaller radius is easier, but I will take you suggestion. Did you mention magnet off balance created issues/concerns? Maybe we /6 could get Andy to do a run of billet 225 covers while he is hot to make alum chips.

Balance? Not an issue. The magnet weight is a very close match to the metal drilled out. And remember the cam is at half crank RPM.

BTW: Regardless of the ECU you have a fairly wide window for the signal to occur (+/- 30 degrees). It's only telling the ECU when to start the sequence. It has no effect on ignition timing. So the cam sensor does not have to be adjustable. Just take the time to position the sensor in the middle of the acceptable range and bolt it in. A little off either way will not matter.

As to Andy... The /6 market is pretty small. When I wrote that "Leaning Overkill" EFI article there was a lot of curiosity but not that much business. This is yours truly checking injector sequencing on that motor.

Also pay attention to the magnet's pole. Most hall sensors trigger off of the south pole of the magnet.

There was a guy using a Jeep cam position sensor with a machined collar that just dropped in place of the distributor . Did Andy F ever make any of these ? I switched to a RCD gear drive and need a cam sensor setup . Fuel pump is mounted directly to the front cover so the snout sensor for the RCD will not work .

Yeah the jeep sensors make a real clean looking install. Made one for a sbc out of a removable top mallory distributor.

I'm in the process of installing an alum bung in a /6 Clifford intake turbo set-up for an IAT. Since turbo heat and the fact the intake and exhaust effectively share the same space, and its an efi dry manifold, how much concern do I need to have with heat soak with the IAT? I am epoxing the injector bungs in to provide a little help with thermally isolating them, maybe I should epoxy the IAT bung also? Does it need a mounting ground/shield? The epoxy I have chosen is high temp (600F) kinda pricey industrial stuff.

I am getting some full dish pistons [15+cc]I would like to hear how dish use has gone for others.446" w/14# on race gas is my use.Thanks in advance.

A dish 3.750 wide and .120 deep would give me 20cc+/- with a .300 to the side of the piston and give me 9.2cr from my 10.25cr now.[78cc chamber,.060 gasket.]

I run 12to1 and 30 pounds of boost with a flat top

Must be on pump gas.

Thought I put "on C-16"

I respect that that is where you wanted to go with your engine.I want to try a dish.

This is an older Compucar bottle, bought in 2004 I think. Can anyone tell me how much nitrous you can spray w/ this valve before it becomes a restriction?

edit...OK, so right after I posted this, I called Compucar to see what they say. Should have just called them first, but oh well. Ernie says this thing will flow 1,000 hp if I needed it to. Says they use a 5/8" siphon tube compared to a 3/8" tube used in the NOS brand bottles. Pretty sure he said 5/8".

You hear a lot of things from people about some valves not flowing as much as hi-flow valves and whatnot. My other bottles are NOS bottles w/ the 45° handle and hi-flow valves.