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Re: Moparts official power adder thread
[Re: Jeremiah]
#2028353
03/10/16 05:01 AM
03/10/16 05:01 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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A 45* fitting will do wonders... but if you didnt use that throttle cable set up it would fit.. I use that same one EDIT My bowl entries are on the pass side of the carb.. you might want to swap the bowls end for end to get them on the pass side...... never mind... I see thats for a regulator or a solenoid 
Last edited by MR_P_BODY; 03/10/16 05:09 AM.
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Re: Moparts official power adder thread
[Re: an8sec70cuda]
#2028380
03/10/16 10:02 AM
03/10/16 10:02 AM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,044
Victoria, Australia
Ian
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,044
Victoria, Australia
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Ian...my D/A shocks are a little shorter than my old shocks so I lost about an inch of travel. Between that and tightening up the extension I was able to get the car to leave VERY nicely last time out. Came up about a foot and carried it about 100 feet out. very good mate that about my limit on hooking ,you are doing a great job cheers mate.
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Re: Moparts official power adder thread
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#2028466
03/10/16 12:44 PM
03/10/16 12:44 PM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,099
Rogue River, OR
Jeremiah
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,099
Rogue River, OR
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A 45* fitting will do wonders... but if you didnt use that throttle cable set up it would fit.. I use that same one EDIT My bowl entries are on the pass side of the carb.. you might want to swap the bowls end for end to get them on the pass side...... never mind... I see thats for a regulator or a solenoid A 45* will work, but if the designer took five minutes to test fit the bracket it could have been made to work with any fitting. Instead I have another $100 worth of junk on the shelf on my shop.
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Re: Moparts official power adder thread
[Re: Jeremiah]
#2028473
03/10/16 12:54 PM
03/10/16 12:54 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,354
Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,354
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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Jeremiah...that's why I like these brackets.
CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: Moparts official power adder thread
[Re: birdtracker]
#2028478
03/10/16 12:57 PM
03/10/16 12:57 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,354
Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,354
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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thanks for the advice. My motor is 14 1/2 already. Birdtracker Nothing wrong w/ spraying a motor with that much compression, you just need to be conservative w/ timing. I've recently started spraying a 14.5:1 sb chevy. We'll see how it goes.
CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: Moparts official power adder thread
[Re: tboomer]
#2028823
03/10/16 10:12 PM
03/10/16 10:12 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,540
Milwaukee WI
TRENDZ
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,540
Milwaukee WI
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Timing is everything.
Cold air is better than warm air.
Timing is everything.
Don't use exhaust gaskets on turbo cars.
Timing is everything.
Small compressors cause higher back pressure than large ones.
Timing is everything.
Transmissions don't like turbos.
Timing is everything.
Use the strongest wrist pins you can get.
Timing is everything.
More head bolts are better than less head bolts.
Timing is everything.
It's better to spend big money on engine management for a junk engine, than it is to put junk controls on an expensive engine.
Oh... and timing is real important too.
"use it 'till it breaks, replace as needed"
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Re: Moparts official power adder thread
[Re: TRENDZ]
#2028844
03/10/16 10:35 PM
03/10/16 10:35 PM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,776
Ontario Canada
MattW
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,776
Ontario Canada
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Timing is everything.
Cold air is better than warm air.
Timing is everything.
Don't use exhaust gaskets on turbo cars.
Timing is everything.
Small compressors cause higher back pressure than large ones.
Timing is everything.
Transmissions don't like turbos.
Timing is everything.
Use the strongest wrist pins you can get.
Timing is everything.
More head bolts are better than less head bolts.
Timing is everything.
It's better to spend big money on engine management for a junk engine, than it is to put junk controls on an expensive engine.
Oh... and timing is real important too. LOL
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Re: Moparts official power adder thread
[Re: Jeremiah]
#2029268
03/11/16 04:18 PM
03/11/16 04:18 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
Monte_Smith
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
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A 45* fitting will do wonders... but if you didnt use that throttle cable set up it would fit.. I use that same one EDIT My bowl entries are on the pass side of the carb.. you might want to swap the bowls end for end to get them on the pass side...... never mind... I see thats for a regulator or a solenoid A 45* will work, but if the designer took five minutes to test fit the bracket it could have been made to work with any fitting. Instead I have another $100 worth of junk on the shelf on my shop. It would be great if everything worked with every combination of parts you may want to use, but it doesn't always work like that. The bracket has extra clearance to also work with 50cc pumps. If the line fit, but it wouldn't clear the pump arm, guys wouldn't like that either........LOL!!
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Re: Moparts official power adder thread
[Re: tboomer]
#2029864
03/12/16 06:08 PM
03/12/16 06:08 PM
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,255
IL
furious70
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,255
IL
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for whatever reason, against conventional wisdom, my usage of oem exhaust manifold gaskets with copper rtv works. Perhaps it's because I'm using an OEM cast manifold that doesn't move around like a fabbed one likely would. I only used goo in the joint from manifold to piping, but I think I used a steel shim gasket at the turbine.
If I was running 20psi of boost and had my 2:1 backpressure maybe I'd be a lot more leaky than I am =)
70 Sport Fury
68 Charger
69 Coronet
72 RR
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Nitrous
[Re: furious70]
#2031542
03/15/16 11:06 AM
03/15/16 11:06 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,354
Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,354
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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I have -3 lines from my solenoids to the plate. Is it worth it to change the solenoid fittings to -4 and use the -4/-3 combo lines?
The line itself looks to be the same size, so the only gain in flow looks to be from the larger -4 fittings on the solenoids.
I know all the bigger kits use the -4/-3 lines. I started w/ a small kit and worked up to a big one. Just curious if it's worth the $140+ to change 2 fittings and 4 lines?
CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: Nitrous
[Re: superchuck]
#2031594
03/15/16 12:25 PM
03/15/16 12:25 PM
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Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 570
UK
rb446
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 570
UK
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Care to critique my set up? 360 10.5:1 compression, eddy 63cc chamber heads, MP.557 solid cam. Holley 750 DP. Edelbrock nitrous kit with 100 shot jets. -8 feeding line with a holley blue pump feeding the engine, -6 and another holley blue pump feeding the nitrous (from the same fuel cell). Rings are gapped I believe .025 (speedpro recommended for nitrous). My plugs are NGK that are gapped at .040. I haven't run it yet so I figured I post my combo and let the pros tell me if I made any mistakes. I'm also using an MSD digital 6 with the nitrous retard removing 5 degrees of timing once the WOT switch is made. Hi, well I'm no pro at N20 and lots have changed since then re N20 but thats almost exactly how I ran my Cheater Kit 25years ago, except I ran my NGK's at a bit smaller gap than that with the MSD6A, both on my 340 at 250hp jets and the 440 at 175hp jets, could go as low as 4psi on the N20 fuel with a seperate blue pump. ps. thought I was doing ok by getting 1.4sec gain on the 340 with 250hp (110/110 jets), apparently not?, I was only getting about 150hp actual fly hp gain according to the mph/weight.
Last edited by rb446; 03/15/16 12:34 PM.
1969 'Cuda 446ci, best 9.96@133.9 in 1990
1971 340 'Cuda, best 11.01@122.8 in 1987
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