Lot of truth here.. except I run copper gaskets.. lol

Hotmopr ive heard hellfire rings are hard on a stock blocks cyclinder walls?

I 2nd the hellfire rings. I had no issues with bore wear from them. I'm sure you lose a bit of power over a low tension ring set, but the high tension follows the bore taper better after a few years
Seriously though, I wouldn't put one of these together without these rings.

Call total seal

Hard as compared to what? Ductile iron factory rings? Sure, probably, but this is now a performance motor and you have to seal it up. You put the ring in it you NEED to do the job. Plus they are not harder on stock block bores than they would be any other cast block

So if you don't mind what are the newest, latest, best mods for a turbo carb.
What has work best for you and what has not.

This is pretty neat. How Much Nitrous Can a Stock Engine Take? - Engine Masters Ep. 13



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AScojLj139A

In my opinion its diffently the power valve tech,it's what makes a good blow thru carb work properly. Especially once you start making over 12psi of boost, if you can control when the power valve opens thats most of the battle in tuning a blow thru carb.
Ive modified standard power valves that are adjustable that open under boost and also used what blow thru guys call a crutch setup which introduces regulated air pressure from a air pump ,activated off a hobbs pressure switch into the PV cavity to force the power valve open with good results.
And ive also used something similar to what CSU uses which uses boost pressure in the float bowls and spring tension to control when that power valve opens up fully, that boost pressure is introduced via the vent tubes. The carb I just built for my new setup has one similar to what CSU uses but was designed by SCS PERFORMANCE and can be adjusted to open from 2psi to 10psi there my carb part dealer and great to work with.
Theres more to it then just that but if you can get over that hurdle any other changes are no different then tuning a standard carb.
Just my 2 cents.......

Strictly over timed. The amount of nitrous didn't break the motor, it was the tune. Too much power for the parts would have shattered a piston or booted a rod out. A piston with the top half burned is strictly too much timing

Do you think the failure to regap the rings played into this too Monte with the 2 stage 300 hp hit? I would think with it being a used engine that itself would open the ring gaps some

T

Not likely. The motor made 500 hp on the hose. Would you think a 500hp N/A motor needed way more gap than a 300hp motor?.......NO. They just strictly missed the timing and it was on cylinder 2. Number 2 is ALWAYS the first problem child to raise it's hand on most motors. He never really explained how they were coming up with their timing numbers, but if he was trying to apply some "formula" per HP, that simply doesn't work.

On a side note, I found some of David's comments on nitrous and tuning familiar. We have had several conversations over the years about nitrous and tuning. Sounded like he was reading from my cliff notes..........LOL!!!

Chad at Bangshift did a somewhat similar test a few years ago with a stock bottom end motor, but it was a 350. His test was jetting. He utilized the SAME nitrous jet for all pulls. But on the fuel side, went from "old" NOS chart jet, to square, to what we suggest now and finally to one of my "race" tunes. I coached him on timing for each change and there was a 150hp swing from first to last pull, with SAME nitrous jet. That motor made a good bit over 600hp and didn't kill any pistons or push a head gasket out. Chad finally quit as he didn't really want to break it and thought the power level was too close to breaking the crank or a rod.

Thanks for the info. I was hoping to make my first hits with nitrous this year but ended up in the hospital July 23rd and still not over it. According to my piston manufacture I was going to be limited to around a 250 MAX hit on my old NA pistons. That would have allowed me to get my feet wet some but now i'm just aiming for next year. I have the rods and pistons and will be sending my Calias crank out to have it resized to chevy sizes.

Okay question. In a total junk track situation on small tires I use the progressive to leave. Where do you start? What's more effective, starting percentage or ramp time? I have been fighting it a little bit. I have a Leash controller

We delay the hit from .3 to .5 and turn on at 20% with around a 1.8 ramp which typically gets us down about any track...60' will go from a low teen to mid 20's !!

To short of ramp time will blow the tires off as the ramp gets to steep !!

I'm know expert but it works for us on 275's !!

Thanks Gary, I was thinking about a delay but am scared it could cough. I currently have a dual ramp in it holding 20% for .75 then ramped to 100 in 1.2 I think it was. I may try a delay tomorrow for the first round of KOTS

Yep we flat line it at first but not really sure for how long as my son is the tuner and I'm quite sure he tries stuff I;m not aware of,Lol.

We always leave on full timing then pull as necessary !!

Haha, sometimes my brother sets the ramp and says "hang the hell on or get ready to pedal"

Monte...What style fogger nozzle would you use on a Hemi Barton intake?

Had a chemically enhanced best last night. Only spraying a 052 jet through a plate, so child's play compared to what most of you guys are playing with. My first time out with the bottle on this car, and I had a few questions regarding nitrous...

Does DA influence nitrous performance similarly to how it does an NA application. DA was ~2500 last night, and NA performance was off 0.1-0.15 compared to "normal" ~1500ft air, so should a I expect the same shift in better air on the bottle?

Ran a 11.80 @ 112.4 NA, Wallace estimates 410 rwhp at 3800#

Setup is a Performer RPM plate/noids, Bottle behind drivers seat, -6 line to noid. Short braided lines from noids to plate.

I filled up with 100 unleaded (no lead to to EFI/O2 sensors), and pulled 8 deg with a NGK 7 plug. I know, super conservative. 950psi in the bottle. Picked up 0.55 and 7.5 MPH. Plug indicated more timing was needed, added 2 degrees. Picked up another 0.16 and 1 mph, ~515rwhp. 11.08 @ 120.7...so close to 10's, haha

The jetting charts that show a 52 jet being ~100hp seem correct. Plug indicated it could almost use more timing still, fuel looked good, ~12.5 AFR. The lanes were moving real slow at that point, so I packed up and went home.

I am tee-ing off the EFI line for the fuel solenoid, 58 psi pressure, with a 28 jet. It might be a little fat at the hit, but I have a separate AFR target set in the EFI software, so it can make some corrections.

The converter is a fairly loose 9.5", ~4500 flash. The fallback seemed ~250 rpm higher than NA, which seems reasonable.

I know a dedicated low pressure fuel system for the N2O would be preferred, and add another degree of tuning with fuel pressure. I see a lot of street guys running pump gas in the main tank and race gas in the dedicated cell, and I suppose if you tune based on that and keep it consistent, then it would be OK, but I would think having all the fuel the same would be preferred. Any thoughts on mixing fuels?

Datalog attached of N2O run and NA compared to N2O run