Chris Alston Chassisworks
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02/11/16 05:13 PM
02/11/16 05:13 PM
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,785 Utah and Alaska
astjp2
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I contacted Chris Alston Chassisworks about possibly making some better quality strut rods for Mopars. You would have thought I was asking to make space shuttle products...but if others are interested, maybe we can interest them.
Carl K Ogren - gStreet Specialist Sales – Tech – Social Media Chris Alston's Chassisworks (916) 388-0288 Ext 247 cogren@cachassisworks.com
1941 Taylorcraft 1968 Charger 1994 Wrangler 1998 Wrangler 2008 Kia Rio 2017 Jetta
I didn't do 4 years and 9 months of Graduate School to be called Mister!
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Re: Chris Alston Chassisworks
[Re: astjp2]
#2010364
02/12/16 07:04 AM
02/12/16 07:04 AM
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Joined: Jan 2011
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astjp2
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I looked at those, they are way different in manufacturing and engineering. Those would be similar to just using heim joints, I was looking for something more robust and on par with a ball joint where its sealed and greaseable. Tim
1941 Taylorcraft 1968 Charger 1994 Wrangler 1998 Wrangler 2008 Kia Rio 2017 Jetta
I didn't do 4 years and 9 months of Graduate School to be called Mister!
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Re: Chris Alston Chassisworks
[Re: astjp2]
#2010508
02/12/16 03:53 PM
02/12/16 03:53 PM
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72Swinger
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They would have to thoroughly testing. Uniball and heims are designed for radial load, not axial. Since these need the K member opened up, might as well do the ball joint deal. Get 2 of these: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/HOWE-K772-BALL-JOINT-KIT,213056.html Then weld 2 of these into K member: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Steel-Upper-Ball-Joint-Sleeve-K772-Style,2126.html
Last edited by 72Swinger; 02/12/16 03:56 PM.
Mopar to the bone!!!
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Re: Chris Alston Chassisworks
[Re: astjp2]
#2010745
02/12/16 09:31 PM
02/12/16 09:31 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,575 The Netherlands
BigBlockMopar
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'better quality strut rod'... What is exactly the issue that needs to be improved? Are stock strut rods failing that often? If you just want adjustability I would probably look at adding simple HD tierod-sleeves into them. Cut the strut in half, cut threads, install sleeve, re-install and adjust. Another $200 saved.
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Re: Chris Alston Chassisworks
[Re: astjp2]
#2010914
02/13/16 02:12 AM
02/13/16 02:12 AM
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Joined: Jan 2011
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astjp2
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Well the mustang ones are $510 before I need modify them to fit a Mopar, but if you want to play, you have to pay....getting a lot of articulation is not cheap...
1941 Taylorcraft 1968 Charger 1994 Wrangler 1998 Wrangler 2008 Kia Rio 2017 Jetta
I didn't do 4 years and 9 months of Graduate School to be called Mister!
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Re: Chris Alston Chassisworks
[Re: astjp2]
#2011116
02/13/16 03:21 PM
02/13/16 03:21 PM
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889 up yours
Supercuda
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Biggest problem with stock strut rods is the bushings. Stock rubber is too soft, poly has poor articulation as mentioned. Aftermarket heim setups are so poorly designed that whomever did that needs nutkicked. For example http://www.qa1.net/suspension/street-per...amic-strut-barsThink about the new location of the strut rod's pivot point and how the LCA will act as it goes up and down.
They say there are no such thing as a stupid question. They say there is always the exception that proves the rule. Don't be the exception.
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Re: Chris Alston Chassisworks
[Re: astjp2]
#2011164
02/13/16 04:37 PM
02/13/16 04:37 PM
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Joined: Feb 2011
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72Swinger
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With my torsion bars, my suspension never sees enough droop to know the difference. My torsion bars are out of load WAY before the suspension is. If a guy had .810 bars then yeah, he may see some fore and aft difference during cycles.
Mopar to the bone!!!
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Re: Chris Alston Chassisworks
[Re: Supercuda]
#2011205
02/13/16 05:40 PM
02/13/16 05:40 PM
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Trojmn
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Biggest problem with stock strut rods is the bushings. Stock rubber is too soft, poly has poor articulation as mentioned. Aftermarket heim setups are so poorly designed that whomever did that needs nutkicked. For example http://www.qa1.net/suspension/street-per...amic-strut-barsThink about the new location of the strut rod's pivot point and how the LCA will act as it goes up and down. right, there's room for days on the front of the K to make the struts longer rather than shorter.
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Re: Chris Alston Chassisworks
[Re: astjp2]
#2011771
02/14/16 03:16 PM
02/14/16 03:16 PM
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TC@HP2
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Okay, you pick up two of these for $25 each; http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-20032-K5208-Standard-GM-Upper-Ball-Joint,38033.html
Add two of these for $10 each: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Swedged-Steel-Tube-3-4-Inch-Thread,2091.html
Cut off, thread, and use the tapered end from your stock strut.
Total cost, $70 plus shipping and labor to cut,thread, and drill.
Or you can petition Alston to make up a single run set of their design for $1000. Maybe convince them there is a market for them at $500 for a run of 100 sets.
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Re: Chris Alston Chassisworks
[Re: astjp2]
#2012641
02/15/16 07:21 PM
02/15/16 07:21 PM
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 4,302 Nebraska
72Swinger
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Sure, but you get that by losing the bushing with a heim already. I could see the longer lever arm argument having some cred if our cars were cycling through ALL of there travel, but I know in my cars case it does not ever drop the front more than MAYBE 1.5" below ride height.
Last edited by 72Swinger; 02/15/16 07:21 PM.
Mopar to the bone!!!
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