Any one remember the size and thread pitch of the passenger side rear oil gallery. It's not NPT. Almost looks like 5/8 fine so that would mean I would need a gasket and not a o-ring. I don't remember my other blocks as anything other than pipe thread there.

1/2 NPT in the galley in the one I have here. 3/8 NPT in the one leading into the oil filter passage.

Agreed, you sure it ain't pipe? I wouldn't think Ma would switch horses midstream on that especially with straight threads (likely) needing as you said a gasket/o ring for sealing on that critical opening (too many potentials for leaks on down the road). I just measured my speedway motors blue alum 3/8 NPT pipe plug that I am going to use in that same location (not an X block tho) & it is .660" on the front (thinnest) part of the slight taper. I drilled a .015 hole in it for constant oiling of the intergear/cam gears. You can see it in action (I've did it before) when you preoil & it'll make a believer out of ya (maybe).

I'll have to find the paper work that came with the block. It is straight thread for sure. This ain't the first "X" block I've had but it's the first one I've had in 10 years. And I don't remember the others having straight thread.

I'll have to measure the hole and check the pitch.

If its straight thread I would be shocked and if it wasn't I would drill and tap it to pipe thread and be done with it. Most of these blocks have issues. My R3 block needed the top two timing cover holes located, drilled, and tapped. A 10 minute project but unexpected.

My production blocks and my R3 all have NPT

It isn't those max wedge flanged intake manifold plugs? Those aren't pipe thread.

aren't those intake plugs 7/8-20 ? and if i recall, weren't they used in a different application/purpose ? the reason i'm thinking this, was i obtained a tap for those plugs and had somewhat of a time getting the right one. i still have the tap,[and maxie intake] but they are both stored in the side garage with a bunch of "stuff" in front making access a tad difficult.

Yeah, but I wasn't that smart. I usually do cam bearings and all the plugs BEFORE anything else, but this time I didn't put the pipe plugs in the back before it went on the stand. I got interrupted several times and I never pulled it off to install them. Now, it's together, so I'm not excited about making it 1/2 NPT.

If I would have caught it, or stayed in my routine, I could have fixed it without issue. And, I put a tube in this block and I still didn't catch the straight thread.

Madscientist I understand not wanting shavings at this point. Just me I would loctite in a straight thread bolt. On the tubing I am considering it on the solid lifter stock car 360. did you drill it by hand (from each end of course) or ream it? what would you suggest?

You can do the tube by hand if you are careful. I could not find a reamer with a pilot on it. I was going to set up the tool post grinder and turn down the end of my reamer to the orignal hole size but I never got around to doing it. I just use a chucking reamer and go slow. Even if the holes don't exactly line up when you are done is not a big deal. You can't be off by half the tube, but a little misaligment is not a problem. I get the tube from MSc because I live out of town and it was easier. I also got the reamer from them, in .6250 diameter. If I ever replace it, I will go to .6260-.6265 because you don't need much press fit, if any. So before I install the tube I polish the o.d. down a bit and then tap it in. I made up 5 different drivers so I can set the tube in place the correct distance so I'm not blocking any holes. After you peen the tube it can't come out so slip fit is ok.

Then you open up the oil feed holes to .287 or so and you are golden.

Thanks bro, Not sure if I can handle that with hand drilling or not. I'll reread your post again (several times probably!) & see if I get more comfortable. I do have the old MP kit with the 2 tubes and the peening tool but I would need another pair of tubes.

The last one I did for my Duster I used good old fashion house copper pipe but I hand drilled mine with a long drill bit.

Pittsburg, thank you, I will hand drill it & be real carefull with my aim

How are you guys peening the tube in the lifter bores? I've seen and heard of guys breaking the lifter bore boss out by using hard, non-annealed copper tubing and trying to drive the peen tool down through the lifter bore.

The reamers that have had the nose machined to the original bore size seemed to work OK if the "pilot" was sufficiently long, but the block had been put in a machine of some type to control the feed and keep everything stable.

The straight reamers run with a hand drill look like they want to deflect towards the oil galley once the reamer hits that open spot. I've always elected to bite the bullet and have the lifter bores bushed.

I've only tubed 2 blocks.. using the MP peening
tool I didnt have any issues.. then I used a brake
cyl hone to get a better fit(the peening tool doent
leave the lifter free, it drags on the peened tube)
I hit it with the hone.. it works pretty good.. been
turning 8000+ rpm with those blocks.... my last 2 blocks
I just had them bushed

You can round off and old lifter. I made my own on a lathe. I put a big radius on the bottom because I felt a taper might wedge the tool in the bore and breal the boss, like you say.

As with anything, use a big hammer with light hits and caution and you should have no issues.

There is no reason why you can't just drill it either, As long as the tube slides in the gallery is all you care about. It may be easier to drull by hand than ream. Just take your time. And then post how it went. I wish everyone running any type of solid lifter was doing this. There'd be a lot less blown up stuff.

And I just use 5/8 copper water pipe. I kinda live in BFE, and I buy from places like MSC on regular basis so I just get from them. I have seen aluminum used as well, but you can't hot tank again, and I've heard it can wear out.

And FWIW, upon closer inspection the hole is actually a poorly tapped 3/8 pipe thread. I greased a tap and cleaned it up a bit. Then the plug screwed in far enough that it blocked the oil feed hole!!

So I went all John Deere on it and found an old, square headed plug that is longer. I then turned it down in the lathe so I had a bigger diameter and threaded it in.

What a PITA.

I kinda thought you would find that to be a pipe thread. As far as s preening tool I still have one from s kit that I bought many moons ago but I have used a rounded solid lifter too. Then I buff it with one of my porting sanding rolls

thank you my man. I'm assuming that no mini lube holes (just for the lifters themselves) are needed (splash takes care of em). I will redrill the main bearing feeds into the copper tube (to 9/32) that I have redrilled the passages to already. Only thing I ain't clear on is how to peen/lock the copper tubes in place