I have a 1969 GTX with a 440, power steering and power brakes. I have 2" primary Hooker Super Comp coated headers I installed almost 20 years ago. When they were installed I recall the power steering and starter had to be removed and reinstalled with them to get the headers on.

I had a head gasket leak which will be a challenge getting the head(s) off because of these headers which are still surprisingly in pretty good shape. I'm considering cutting them off if it becomes to much of a challenge and installing new headers that'd go on and off without the steering box and starter removal.

Any suggestions on a brand and part # for a good header, big enough to support a 512 stroker with either Oem 915 heads or the newer aluminum AFR 440 heads that would go on and off more easily and not hurt performance?

Thanks!!

There is no such thing as a header that makes power and is easy to work on in production chassis.

I've been doing this for decades (like you) and I've never seen such a one.

Makes sense. But surely some fit better and more easy than others with minimal performance loss. I know these ones are close to impossible to work with. How about TTI, or Doug's, etc??

ill take 3 sets,i don't care how much they are!!!I think its geometally imposible.

Starters and power steering boxes are always going to present a challenge. Using the smaller mini starter from a full sized truck or Dakota helps as does going to manual steering.

I use Hedman 78030 (sounds like the diameter may be too small for you) but they fit better than any header I've had! The last time I installed the engine, I pulled the headers to the side of the engine bay and lashed them there with some straps and bungee cords. I also put the starter loosely in there before tossing the block in. It was the easiest install I've done but you still have to wrestle with things...

There is no such header that fits your description!

TTI 2" B/E body traps the starter in, even a mini starter.

I have Hooker 1 7/8 Super Comps on a 68 Satellite with 440 and power steering. I don't have to take the steering loose but I do unbolt the ds motor mount and raise the engine up. Last year I had to replace the starter and a blown header gasket on my 400 powered 73 RR. I put a factory mini starter on and I also cut the flange off the header(Hooker 1 7/8 Comps) between the tubes. It made things much easier. I've decided all my headers from now on are getting the flanges cut off.

You should cut the flanges anyways.. it allows the tubes
to slide a bit to prevent the gaskets from blowing out..
plus it usually aids in getting to the plugs... also drill
one of each set of holes larger to allow slippage of them
I guess I'll just keep building my headers since I can get them
in and out of my little car without taking anything off

A slip on collector and cut the flanges....makes any header a lot easier to install

I run 1 7/8" TTI's on a low deck in a Challenger. Complete R&I does not require disturbing the PS but does require at least unbolting the starter and jacking one side of the engine.

I can and have pulled a head without removing the headers (or starter) from the vehicle. Un-bolt them and pull aside enough to remove the head. Maybe you can do that with your current headers as well?

you forgot the magic checklist for great fitting headers P! small block, tube K, coil over shocks! I can remove my headers with the engine in the car, on the ground :P all kidding aside, the combo of big block, stock chassis, big power steering box, + working around those torsion bars is a tough chore. I'm thinking even custom headers would be a tight deal on that car. People from farther than you have hauled cars to REF in Kingman AZ to get headers made.

....and 500 cubes and 915 heads? why bother with the additional cost of a stroker.

My first race car was a A-body B-engine with a mostly
stock K-member with the T bars... no power steering..
I built the headers for it.. I could pull them out the
top without pulling anything.. drivers side was close
but they still went in and out.. they were 1 7/8...
then I got smart and started to eliminate all that extra
junk to lighten up the car.. I think he should be able
to pull the heads with the headers still in there.. just
pull them back(strap them back if needed)

What about these?
http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/BRB_Headers.html

i'm about the squeeze my 512 Stage 6 headed beast back into my 'cuda. Hooker comp headers miss everything when bolted up but you have to fit at the same time as the engine. i'm thinking of cutting off the collector & using a slip on version & cutting the flange & make each side a 3 tube + collector piece. I hoping then i can move just a single tube to give access to the starter & ease of header flange gasket replacement.

This is the best way to do it. I thought your headers already had slip on collectors.

You can buy collectors pretty cheap. Then slip the tubes in, leave the bolts loose, slide the collector on the tighten it all up.

I use 5303 Hookers on my A body. They only go in ONE WAY, IN ORDER. The instructions tell you how to do it and that is that. There are no other ways. Surprisingly, they fit dang nice once they are on. You just have to follow directions.

I use doug's d452 on a 440 with eddy heads in a 68 satellite. It does require lifting the engine up during install, and sliding the starter in as the header goes in. But other than that, no problems, no dings, and super easy. With power steering etc. it might be a different story, you can investigate further, but Dougs are worth looking into.

on my Dart they're slip on, this is where i got the idea from.

I had some headers years ago, maybe super comps that had slip fit collectors and a couple of the tubes were slip fit. You could pull and reinstall them quicker than install the easier side of most headers. They were a 2" primary also.