I am going to pull my motor in the scamp, the engine was built in 2007 so it has been together for a while. I do not consistently race every weekend but I think its time to open it up and take a look. the car has seemed to slow a bit over the years. Any tips on a list of things to check on would be of a great help.
Thanks,
Mike

Leak down test before you disassemble it. At the very least do a compression check wet and dry.
Gus

I have a trick leak down tester that I have never used. Send me a PM and you can borrow it.

I plan on the leak down, checking the bearings on the rods and crank, I do have a leak down tester (thanks for the offer Pete)
going to check the roller lifters for anything out of the ordinary and replace the valve springs.
not sure what else to look for though

Most fresh ups are not needed--we get lots of drag engines in every other season and they would have easy kept going--the Main things are

The roller lifters--excessive spring pressures or not enough pressure kills lifter axle bearings--these need to come out--go on Egay and be replaced pretty often if you race lots of week ends--all depends on what level $$ of lifter you start with

Timing chains--stutter boxes Kill chains--no stutter no worry--stutter--replace chain

Valve springs--check them --if good keep on keeping on--

Bearings--almost never

Rings--I see lots of bracket engines with several years on them--sure they can use a hone and some fresh rings --they may not be as sharp as new but hey..they are not going to hurt a thing--so you run a tenth slower than new who cares?

Many combos can go lots more races than owners think long as lifter wheels stay on lifters

Most fresh ups get plate hone , rings, new bearings , timing set, lifters ( or lifter check),springs, valve job touch up, crank polish, new stem seals and maybe a new set valve locks and away they go I just did a 496 BB that had 5 years of points racing on it and it really could have gone a couple more except timing chain was slacko from stutter--other than that it really would have gone like the ever ready bunny

His motor has slowed a bunch, something is up, be it parts in the motor worn, which as little as you use it I find that hard to believe, or your tune up is off. Mike, do you loosen rockers in your yrs of no use or atleast turn motor over frequently?

I think the valve springs are the culprit, there have been some times I have not backed the rockers off but I have always turned the motor over
tune has always been a couple jets either way since day 1
motor will be out on Monday to take a look

Check the leak down and do a compression check..
if the valve springs are weak you might be pulling
the heads for a valve job.. if your gonna pull the
engine then check everything
EDIT
If you took a leak down and compression check
when it was new you can see if they dropped much
and if you checked the springs when new you can
check them also

I compression check when fresh. Then I have a known number. Same with springs. Get a on the car checker. They're not perfect but they will show a change. With these two tests you'll have a pretty good idea if there was something in the motor slowing it down. With the heads diasembled you can get a pretty good look at the seats and valves. If it compression tested good they may be fine. I'd send the lifters in. Inspect everything very well. It's nice to have the original build sheets to see what changed. Check pistons close for loose ring lands and cracks, pin for feeedom of movement, rod bolt length if measured originally, cap mating surfaces, cam lobes, valve lock grooves, diassemble and inspect oil pump.
Doug

Another unmentioned tester is a vac gauge install and viewed to keep tabs...........

I am always looking close at the backs of the rod bearings, and the main cap parting lines. It can tell you a lot about the tuneup and longevity of the lower end.

Well #6 and #8 exhaust ports are pretty oily think it may be a guide issue not sure, all leak down numbers are less than 10%
except one at 19%, I did have #2 cyl. that gave me a reading at 70% but that was a stuck intake valve, hit the valve with a hammer and all is well now
bores still show a cross hatch
checked a rod bearing and all looks well. Oil pan bottom clean. think I will run thru the heads diagnose the oil issue and button it back up
Thanks for the tips

How are the #6 and #8 intake ports and the back side of the intake valves in those ports, are they dry and clean or oily and gummy? If dry and clean then the exhaust guides and seals are the only items left for possibly oiling those exhaust ports
Good luck, let us know what you find

Both intake ports look clean however both had oil on the back side of the valve where it hits the seat, haven't really dug into them yet, will tomorrow

Leak down only tells you about the top ring, valve job, and bore...
If you have oil on the intake valve, and in the ports it's going to be oil ring and possibly the 2nd ring as well...

What's the deal with the "stuck" intake valve????

I was for sure I have a bad #2 hole because I checked it 3 times with the same results, so I pulled the piston expecting a broken ring. everything was fine.
Put the piston back in and put the head back on without the rockers and this time when I did the leak down I felt air coming
out of the intake port, Valve was stuck open, tapped the top of the valve with a hammer and it sealed??
Not sure why it hung open yet

A piece of grit, carbon or maybe a small spot corrosion on the valve seat or the valve mating surfaces The valve not seated all the way will do the same thing, check the valve guide to stemm clearances also If it is more than .0030 fix it I've seen the same reults many times in the past