DaytonaTurbo you mentioned about electric fuel pumps, what are you using?? I probably don't mind adding one but from having an electric Carter super pump in a 440 Charger some 30 years ago all I can remember is an annoying humming coming from the pump, wondering if there is a quieter one out there.

Too bad someone doesn't make one that looks and mounts like a regular pump and had a single wire that could be routed on the K-member to be inconspicuous. That I would do to most any of them. Where's Mike Ross, he likes to develop good produces for us, maybe he can take this on and I'll only need 2% of the profits for the idea.

You want to mount them back by the tank. Electric pump are better pushers than pullers. Also, keeping the fuel pressurized for the length of the car, rather than under vacuum also solves a whole hose of vapor lock and suction leak problems.

I have run several different types of electric pumps on everything from v8`s to carbed 4cyl engines and I can`t hear them when the engine is running. I mount them back near the tnak, and I rubber isolate them so there are no common bolts between the pump and the frame. This cuts down on a lot of noise. Rubber P-clamps and/or a foam sleeve make all the difference.

Why not add a priming electric pump that runs in parallel to a check valve, with a 5 second timer off of the ignition, it will fill the bowls and crank if you just turn on the key and wait to crank. Tim

I know I could use a typical electric pump but I really don't want to add wires and brakcets to my AAR or even either of the RTs. I'm aware they are better pushers and your point about pressurizing the entire line is logical. My thought of the pump on the engine is more from an appearance stand point not to mention there isn't a heavy fuel pressure requirement but in some cases a volume concern with a pump but I would think most any quality electric pump would out perform a stockish mechanical pump.

The other issue I am fighting is why should I have to do anything they worked fine for years and I guess the answer there is the fuel is way worse than I thought and/or I am becoming more in tune to the issue since it is longer between driving each of them now. I'm in PA for a couple of weeks again but I will start experimenting with different fuels when I get home. The Coronet has good fuel in it now so it will be a good test sitting for 2 weeks.

You can put a pump up front but it is not going to survive very well , all you really need the pump for, it seems , is to prime the carbs on initial start up , Mr Gasket makes one that is in line and that would probably fill that need and you could mount it to something that is already back there and out of the way fairly easily, wiring will not require anything that requires modifying your precious cars ...

[/soapbox]this attitude is why there is very little to no aftermarket support for Mopars , the owners won't do anything that is non stock and then [censored] and complain because there is no aftermarket support.[/soapbox]



Dear Mr. Van Winlke,
Gasoline is formulated now, thanks to the GUBERMINT, to work in cars with CLOSED LOOP SYSTEM, they don't even vent to atmosphere. Our precious cars are a blip on the radar screen, the gubermint doesn't care about us, adapt or live with it, these are our ONLY choices.

i seriously don't remember our cars starting any easier back in the day of 'quality' gas after sitting a week or so. probably just my crappy tuning skills though.....

Bottom line is either live with it or install an electric pump. After having in recent years daily driven my jeep with a carb, manual choke and electric fuel pump, I wouldn't set up a carbed vehicle any other way. I found I started having issues if I let mine sit for any more than a few days. Like others have said, a squirt bottle and some gas or some ether will do it.

Well ya'll have convinced me that the check valve issue is probably off base although the one that behaves the best is a GM with a Q-jet that has a check valve filter in the inlet. An electric fuel pump in the rear would require power to be run back to it which isn't the end of the world but I really don't want to do and I'm a little concerned about running an inline pump that runs all the time without a return line, the concern being that it will overpower the needle and seats. Hopefully I will see liveable results with good fuel.

How about this for an idea, I have used a gas cap with a tire valve stem in it in the past to pressurize the tank for starting a flow to drain the tank, what if I used that cap and put about 10 lbs. of pressure to the tank to get the fuel to the engine fast on the first start up. Maybe 5 lbs is better. I might try that on a lesser car to see how it works just incase something doesn't work.

Thanks for the input folks, i have been living with it and will no doubt continue to, no way am I gonna stop driving my cars.

So you ignored my post about using a 5 second timer relay...to run the priming pump

http://www.waytekwire.com/item/75545/InPower-VCM-05-10SA-One-Shot-Solid-State-Relay-/

The Q-jet check/filter is AC Delco GF471F or GM part number 88915476. Maybe you should buy one and see what makes it tick.

R.

No I didn't ignore it, it was just a day or so since I read it so I HAD forgotten it. I understand that is how the modern systems energize and the ones I am familiar with then get a signal from the distributor to run once the engine is spinning. But again it adds wiring I don't care to add.

A 6psi pump is not going to overpower the needle and seat .

As far as pressurizing the tank, that is not going to work because the tank is vented to atmosphere. You'll never pressurize it and 10psi would definitely overpower the needle and seat.

A short blast of starting fluid sprayed into the filter would probably get you enough to fill the bowls for a restart?

So I'm clear about this: You don't want to run a wire and an electric fuel pump that will solve your problem, but you willing to dump raw fuel into your motor, or spray either into the air cleaner assembly, or add a GM inline fuel filter to your Mopar? Because originality is so important, or adding a wire and electric fuel pump is so difficult? UM, OK!
You better just leave it in the garage, so you won't hurt your investment by driving it, then the poor start won't be an issue. Gene

I prefer mine to crank a while as it helps build oil pressure seeing as that drains back as well.

If you only knew how funny that was........ I have said nothing about dumping fuel (I assume you are talking about priming) or or ether (I believe it is actually too dry and isn't good for any motor) although others have suggested it, The GM filter comment was simply pointing out an example of one in use and the way it started. I do like orginality on certain cars but really love the day 2 thing and as for difficult, I'm not thinking installing an inline, frame mounted or in tank pump would be an issue for me at this point. And as for leaving it in the garage to protect my investment, I have taken my most expensive investment (which I bought in about 15 boxes and assembled from a bare shell to driving status in about 6 months, 90% of the aparts are original to the car, it only had 59K on it), anyway I have driven it about 12,000 miles in the last 18 months including a maiden voyage of 4400 miles and a second trip of 3500 miles. Not to mention I'm not afraid to drop the clutch on any and all of them at 3-4 grand 1000 miles from home. As for the rest of my fleet, my newest vehicle is my dually which is a 88 square body Chevy with the Q-jet on it. Any given week I drive 3-4 true 4 speed muscle cars over 45 years old and average 2-300 miles in the week just riding for no reason at all. So forgive me when I smirk at your suggestion that I should leave any of my cars in the garage for fear of hurting my "investments". A survior should be protected, any restored car can be restored again no reason not to enjoy the devil out of them. Not measuring but very few on this board have the seat time I have, either in the last 35 years of driving or the last 5 or the last year.

The only reason for a filter to have a check valve would be because the needle and seat is level with the upper level of the fuel , the only Mopar carb I can think of that has an issue close to that ... off the top of my head ... would be the carter BBD 2bbl ??

Even if the OP was able to adapt/find a filter with a check valve it would do nothing other than lighten his wallet, and waste his time.

I have a can of ether that has top cylinder lubricant ... unless the can is lying to me ???

Yea, I'm off the check valve thought and will start trying better fuel when I get home. I'll report back the results just to finish the thread. Have heard of ether with lubricant but that would negate all the negative I've heard about it over the years. I had a mud truck that I called druggy that thing refused to start with ether back in the day, even if it sat for a half hour while someone else was in the hole I'd have to shut it. I didn't really care about that engine so I didn't care what I did to it. That is the one I would pressurize the tank on to drain it from time to time, it would pressurize to the point that you could hear the tank flex, the vent must have been stopped up with mud.

I do appreciate all the input folks.

Same here.