Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#1994447
01/19/16 10:56 PM
01/19/16 10:56 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506 Az
Crizila
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Awesome! Keep us posted on your progress. Can't be enough 33 Plymouths out there. Couple million more and we will have as many as 33/34 Fords.
Fastest 300
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: moparx]
#1995059
01/20/16 05:55 PM
01/20/16 05:55 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,502 Shelby, Ohio
2abodymcodes
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I still have the red 69 roadrunner, and my pink 70 challenger, and my green 69 cuda. My goal was to have a fully restored A body,B body,E body, and an old resto rod truck for a driver.(42 Dodge truck with a late model 360 and 904 tranny) I have reached that goal. Now it's time to build this 33 street rod for my wife. She has supported me in this hobby for almost 30 years so its time I built one for her. As to the rear suspension, I bought a new take off rear suspension out of a late 80's Thunderbird Super Coupe. it has zero miles on it. I installed it in the 33 back in 1987. it makes a real nice independent rear, disk brake unit. i'll post pictures when I get the body lifted back off. And the car had no rust. it is a local car that was found inside an old semi trailer on a farm years ago.
Last edited by 2abodymcodes; 01/20/16 05:57 PM.
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#1996426
01/22/16 05:35 PM
01/22/16 05:35 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,066 Eugene, Oregon
minivan
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As to the rear suspension, I bought a new take off rear suspension out of a late 80's Thunderbird Super Coupe. it has zero miles on it. I installed it in the 33 back in 1987. it makes a real nice independent rear, disk brake unit. i'll post pictures when I get the body lifted back off. Please, pics of the rear end installed.... Factory Five Cobra's had a kit designed using a 5 litre T-bird with this independent rear for the donor instead of a Mustang. Always wondered if this would be a be the way to go?? Did not see the option ( t-bird) on the factory five website last time I looked...
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2015935
02/20/16 06:43 AM
02/20/16 06:43 AM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 16,452 Canada
CrAzYMoPaRGuY
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I Live Here
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After being on Facebook the last few years I can't help but looking for the "like" button..... lol
CrAzYMoPaRGuY
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2071985
05/12/16 12:12 PM
05/12/16 12:12 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 43,458 Round Lake Beach, Illinoisy
Rhinodart
Rhinotruck
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Rhinotruck
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You mean HER stereo system! Cool build, I was involved in the build of a 33 couple with a 6.1 Hemi and pistol grip 4-speed, love that body style!
Last edited by Rhinodart; 05/12/16 12:15 PM.
The funny thing about science is that if you change one miniscule parameter you change the entire outcome to the way you want it.
JB Rhinehart, Realist
A-Body's RULE!
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: CrAzYMoPaRGuY]
#2073175
05/14/16 12:03 PM
05/14/16 12:03 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,066 Eugene, Oregon
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After being on Facebook the last few years I can't help but looking for the "like" button..... lol First place Identity thieves find info about you....
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: savoy64]
#2091891
06/14/16 04:45 PM
06/14/16 04:45 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,376
dogdays
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From time to time Ford engineers dreamed about installing IRS in Mustangs. The install had to be pretty much a bolt-on so they could keep the cheaper live axle under the cheaper cars while the higher end would get the IRS. I believe this is what made it into the Super Coupe. The Ford IRS was in no way a copy of the Jaguar. Ford had diagonal lower arms, like my '70s Mercedes. The Jag arms went straight out from the differential. Ford used a separate upper control arm, again like my Mercedes, while the Jag used the halfshafts themselves. Hubs looked quite different as well. Look at the later model Jag rear end in this link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/86-94-Jaguar-XJ4...E-/222099315972I have a friend who installed one of these in a Toyota pickup, he says it allows much higher off-road speeds. R.
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2097283
06/24/16 11:51 AM
06/24/16 11:51 AM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506 Az
Crizila
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Az
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You are going great work! What a nice ride you will have when you are done. Keep up!
Fastest 300
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2123765
08/03/16 12:14 AM
08/03/16 12:14 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 18,575 Dreaming of the 808
AZ_A12_BEE
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Got my frame and suspension all painted. here are a few pictures showing the rear end assembly. It is out of a 1990 Ford T-Bird Super Coupe. I have some questions on this set up. 1) is this set up strong enough to put behind a 490Hp Gen III 6.4 Hemi? 2) is this setup easy to find? 3) is this setup exoensive? 4) would a 4 link be stronger and/or cheaper? 5) can you easily adjust ride height?
69.5 A12 Bee, first purchased in 1976, car 169 on registry
69 Coronet R/T 440/4 spd
69 Coronet 500 Conv H code 383 4bbl/auto
37 Plymouth PU
Find your spot on earth and ride it.
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2124165
08/03/16 05:21 PM
08/03/16 05:21 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,992 Escondido, CA. Ron Podsiadly,...
Mopar Ron
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Escondido, CA. Ron Podsiadly,...
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VERY NICE work so far I read somewhere that the T bird IFS waS 4 1/4" BOLT PATTERN how wide is that IFS? do the tires fit in the opening or will you need to widen the rear fenders? I thought the track width of the IFS was around 63" total, that is like a E body, about 2-3" wider than a B body rear end. just curious how it fits...
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2202670
11/25/16 11:45 PM
11/25/16 11:45 PM
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26 British Columbia, Canada
cocobolo
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In the middle photo above, you show a pic of the new front end installed.
My '33 has an older Heidt's IFS, very similar to the Fatman unit I rather imagine.
As far as I know, my car was built back in Ontario about 30 years ago. The body seems to be not too bad, but when I started digging in to the mechanical side of things all hell broke loose.
One thing that I should mention is the installation of the Heidt's in mine was definitely not done properly. The instructions (which I looked up) clearly state that the holes in the front of the original frame should be filled in with 11 gauge steel. And then on top of that a 3/16" plate needs to be fabricated and welded in to place.
Unfortunately, neither of these items were attended to and the results were terrible.
We have removed everything from the car now, body is off, and we are correcting all the issues.
Where the Heidt's was welded in, there were several cracks in the frame up to 8" long. The reason for these cracks is that the two opposing frame sides were able to bend in towards each other every time the car hit a bump.
I'm quite sure that as long as your frame has something strong where the IFS is mounted, that there should be no bending. It's hard to see whether or not you have filled in any of the original holes in the frame or not (I'm only using a small laptop). But if you haven't, then there needs to be some sort of steel tube that will prevent the frame twist up front. We couldn't believe how much damage to the frame there was when we started taking things apart.
Last edited by cocobolo; 11/26/16 01:06 AM. Reason: Spellcheck!!!???
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2202673
11/25/16 11:58 PM
11/25/16 11:58 PM
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26 British Columbia, Canada
cocobolo
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a little update on my 33. I have replaced all the floors. the original floors are solid and rust free but I wanted a thicker metal and wanted to do away with the wooden sections. I installed a set of 8 way power leather seats out of a Saab convertible. I also extended the dash down and added a built in console. this will be where I will mount all my switches for my electric seats, windows, ect.. mounted a tilt column from Flaming River. Next I am going to build an overhead console to house my stereo system. Back again...the floor in mine has been butchered, obviously not all original, maybe some of it, I really don't know. You mention wood, was there some in the original floor, or was it elsewhere? Mine has some wood, but it looks to be a fairly modern plywood (cheap junk) but in good shape. I'm told the car was garage kept since the day it was built. The 4 door had an old Ford column which had been attacked by a madman with a grinder, and he showed no mercy at all. We have replaced that with a decent looking chrome column, probably made in beautiful downtown Beijing! Clever idea about extending that dash down. There's not a whole lot of room behind the stock dash. I see yours doesn't appear to be chopped...YET! Mine has been, but I don't know how much. I would guess around 4" or so. It doesn't look too bad, but I'm an old fart and I would have preferred to have the original headroom.
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2202684
11/26/16 12:09 AM
11/26/16 12:09 AM
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26 British Columbia, Canada
cocobolo
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The bolt pattern is 4 1/4. I bought some high quality wheel adapters to get it to 4 1/2. Since this will be a street driven car, I am not worried about using adapters. I widened the rear fenders 2" each and moved the rear running board brackets out as well. The side splash aprons are still even with the rear quarters. You can't tell it was altered unless you know what you are looking for. Widening your rear fenders is going to be a terrific plus. I don't have the IRS in mine, but I do have a Jag IRS going in another project. It too has the 4 1/4" (108 mm) bolt pattern. Very difficult to find a decent wheel to fit. I have a 10 bolt GM rear end in mine and when I got the car the back tires interfered with the bodywork. Initially, when I changed tires and rims - I went to a 3 3/4" backspace rim, it was the best I could locate. I still had to add longer shackles in the back (leaf springs still on the car) to enable tire clearance. We are now switching over to a different 10 bolt which will have a triangulated 4 link, ala standard GM, so the old leafs can go. The Plymouth frame has a taper all the way to the back, and we straightened that out in order to gain some additional clearance for the tires. It looks as though you have tons of room between your tires and the frame.
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2202731
11/26/16 02:00 AM
11/26/16 02:00 AM
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26 British Columbia, Canada
cocobolo
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Then I had 2 broken headlights from a late model Chrysler mini van and I removed the 2 magnifying lenses. I mounted these in front of the halogen bulbs. The original lenses fit over top of all of it. They light up very nice, yet look original when I installed the lenses back on. That is absolutely brilliant! Pun intended.
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2204274
11/29/16 04:45 AM
11/29/16 04:45 AM
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26 British Columbia, Canada
cocobolo
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cocobolo, I boxed my complete frame in with about 3/16th inch plate steel. Between the heavy crossmember that comes with the Fatman front end and the upper crossmember I also made and added, my frame is very stiff. I don't ever see it moving in or out. My original lower firewall and directly under the front of the front seat were wood which I done away with. By widening the rear fenders and with the rear end I am using, rear wheel and tire clearance is not an issue. I also agree that the 33 Ford has nothing on the Plymouth when it comes to looks. Plymouth roofline almost looks like a mild chop from the factory. It looks like you boxed the frame rails, but the x - member still appears to be original. I really don't know if it's necessary to box that part, but just in case - we have just finished doing that today. I am sure that 3/16" plate is more than enough to prevent the trouble my frame went through. It was actually frightening. Thanks for the info on the wood. I guess maybe that must be stock then, because the angled portion of the firewall on mine is wood, and that extends also back to the front seats as did yours. And there's not even sheet metal covering it. Not sure what we will do about that, but it will either get covered with sheet metal, or removed and made from scratch from sheet metal. I'm afraid I have no experience with body work, so widening my rear fenders is likely out of the question. Our solution was to narrow the back several feet of the frame, which will also mean we will need to narrow the rear end. That will give us room for the new rear wheels and tires, two different ones of which we are considering at the moment. I wish I had 1/10th of your bodywork skills. I think your sedan is unchopped right? Could I prevail on your good self to let me know what the height of both the front and back windows are please? That way I should be able to find out how much it has been chopped. Thank you in advance.
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: cocobolo]
#2204672
11/29/16 07:58 PM
11/29/16 07:58 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,502 Shelby, Ohio
2abodymcodes
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I did not box in my x frame. I really don't see a need for that, but I did weld it solid where the rivets held it together in the center and the outer corners at the frame rails. my has not been chopped, I like the way it looks stock. here are a couple of pictures showing the window measurements. Any other questions, feel free to ask. I have been looking for the back glass interior trim moulding for years and cannot find one. if you ever hear of one, please let me know.
Last edited by 2abodymcodes; 11/29/16 08:00 PM.
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: moparx]
#2205231
11/30/16 02:21 PM
11/30/16 02:21 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506 Az
Crizila
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i always got a chuckle out of pennsylvania,s inspection code stating a 12" minimum windshield height when mopars were less than this from the factory. i can't recall any instances when tops for these vehicles were raised to accommodate the "law". that "law" is still on the books, but it has gotten to the point of being ignored with the street rod regulations in effect, and even those requirements are being ignored to the point of almost anything goes now. provided, the workmanship is done to very good standards. i was one of the individuals in the group that helped create that law, and also offered insight and suggestions for it's regulations. i am proud of the time and effort i put into that project, even though it was a difficult challenge. About 9" front and 5" rear on mine. Ya, when I went to the Arizona DMV to get mine registered, the cop checked - NOTHING! They just assigned their own VIN to the door jam ( even though I had a C of O with the manufacturers VIN ) and that was it. They only recognize their VIN, including for insurance. If you look at the windshield lay-back on some of the newer vehicles, doubt some of them would pass the 12" Penn. minimum law if measured perpendicular to the ground.
Fastest 300
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2205734
12/01/16 07:04 AM
12/01/16 07:04 AM
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26 British Columbia, Canada
cocobolo
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I assume they are the same but don't know for sure. if the 34 were a bit different, I guarantee I can make it fit. SRPM Street rods has a garnish moulding for a '33 coupe...I have no idea if that would be the same as for a sedan. Might be worth checking out. I'll keep looking.
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2206100
12/01/16 09:58 PM
12/01/16 09:58 PM
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889 up yours
Supercuda
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Why put it under the dash?
If you can run vent hoses thru something like a narrow console put the unit in the trunk.
They say there are no such thing as a stupid question. They say there is always the exception that proves the rule. Don't be the exception.
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2206189
12/01/16 11:58 PM
12/01/16 11:58 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,528 Southeast PA
5wndwcpe
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pro stock
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...and if you get one of those fancy, bottom tilt bench seats you can put the fusebox under there.
1968 GTX hardtop 1968 Sport Satellite Convertible 383/4spd 1933 Plymouth coupe 2002 Ram 2500 oil burner 4x4 2015 Grand Cherokee 2013 Challenger 1957 Chrysler Saratoga
Man...I need a bigger freakin' garage.
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: Supercuda]
#2206285
12/02/16 02:25 AM
12/02/16 02:25 AM
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26 British Columbia, Canada
cocobolo
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Why put it under the dash?
If you can run vent hoses thru something like a narrow console put the unit in the trunk. I am definitely considering a console of some sort. I have my doubts that it would be any too practical for running a/c lines through (which I really don't need) but the thought has crossed my mind. For one thing there will be a floor shifter in the way. I need to keep an open mind for all these details though, never know what may - or may not - work. The "trunk" area in the '33 is pretty small. The battery and spare tire are already located in there. Access is by pulling the rear seats forward.
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 5wndwcpe]
#2206289
12/02/16 02:29 AM
12/02/16 02:29 AM
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26 British Columbia, Canada
cocobolo
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...and if you get one of those fancy, bottom tilt bench seats you can put the fusebox under there.
Actually, we are using what I think are Honda bucket seats in front, and I have put them on a pair of 3" raised metal channels. There's room there for the fuse panel. It doesn't matter to me if the wiring is a few feet longer, since we are starting from scratch with a new wiring harness. Any wiring can easily be routed through the side of the console.
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: poorboy]
#2206307
12/02/16 02:47 AM
12/02/16 02:47 AM
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26 British Columbia, Canada
cocobolo
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My 35 Dodge (from years ago) had small slots at the bottom of the windshield that were cut into the garnish moldings. Those slotted vents were supplied with fan forced warm air from a tube connected to the heat unit. I can tell you the warm air forced through those small slots cleared the windshield very quickly.
I suggest you use the area under the dash for heat/cool and windshield wipers, and run the electrical not needed in the dash, to under or behind the rear seat. The voltage in the wiring won't care how far it travels before it reaches its destination. Warm air from a heating unit can cool pretty quickly in a cold car, you want to keep those heat caring hoses as short as possible. Gene Well now, there's some good info. Was that a stock type vent under the window? If so, then I should be able to find a pic somewhere. I was discussing that very thing with number two son, but he didn't think that you could get enough warm air through to help. I absolutely believe you when you say that would clear the windshield. There's no reason that it shouldn't. Now that channel under the window on the '33 is a small box like section. I'm back at home now, about 500 kilometres away from the car, but I think that section is about an inch deep and maybe 3/4" wide. I could do a little sheet metal fabbing to run the warm air through and insulate that with stick-on duct insulation. The wiper motor - single - is mounted overhead on this car. It sure could use a second, or even a third wiper with that low chopped window. I haven't measured the height of it yet, but the guys have very kindly given me info on their window heights. Did the Dodge mount the wipers from below I take it? I think in deference to the very kind original poster that I should be starting a thread on this car. There's a way to go yet and I'm quite positive there will be loads of questions still.
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2206521
12/02/16 03:56 PM
12/02/16 03:56 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,486 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
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First off, a 35 Dodge (or Plymouth) is a much different car then a 33 is, lots of stuff changed in those few years. Second, 35 Dodge was a pile of cut up rusted metal when I started, anything that may have been there originally was long gone when the "car" came into my possession. I'll post before and after pictures for your amusement.
That said, I learned very early in my build that if I wanted something I could drive, I would need to see what modern parts could be adapted. With that in mind, I have a 2004 PT Cruiser. That PT has fairly narrow bucket seats, and the non power passenger side seat in on a pedestal with a drawer in it. That drawer opens about 8" away from the seat bottom, one could mount the fuse box & whatever other electrical component he wanted access to in the drawer with enough wiring in a loop to allow it to be opened and closed. On my 35, both seat bottoms were touching each other, a console would have been pretty narrow, especially if there was a shifter in it. I can't believe a 33 has more room between the doors then the 35 had, if you have not set some sets in the car yet, you might want to check it out before you make too many plans. Creating duct work is a pretty easy task, compared to the other stuff you have to do.Gene
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: poorboy]
#2206562
12/02/16 05:48 PM
12/02/16 05:48 PM
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26 British Columbia, Canada
cocobolo
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First off, a 35 Dodge (or Plymouth) is a much different car then a 33 is, lots of stuff changed in those few years. Second, 35 Dodge was a pile of cut up rusted metal when I started, anything that may have been there originally was long gone when the "car" came into my possession. I'll post before and after pictures for your amusement.
That said, I learned very early in my build that if I wanted something I could drive, I would need to see what modern parts could be adapted. With that in mind, I have a 2004 PT Cruiser. That PT has fairly narrow bucket seats, and the non power passenger side seat in on a pedestal with a drawer in it. That drawer opens about 8" away from the seat bottom, one could mount the fuse box & whatever other electrical component he wanted access to in the drawer with enough wiring in a loop to allow it to be opened and closed. On my 35, both seat bottoms were touching each other, a console would have been pretty narrow, especially if there was a shifter in it. I can't believe a 33 has more room between the doors then the 35 had, if you have not set some sets in the car yet, you might want to check it out before you make too many plans. Creating duct work is a pretty easy task, compared to the other stuff you have to do.Gene Thank you once again Gene. I take it the gentleman in the blue shirt holding the steering column is "The Boss"...the other guy must be the helper, right? Yes, there's no way that there's more room in the '33. The cars got wider over the years, and doubtless your '35 was a little bit wider. I had a '35 Chevy 2 door sedan previously, and it wasn't much - if any - wider than the Plymouth. When I got this car it was running and licensed for the road. So the seats have been in place since long before I got it. They originally sat right on the floor, which was too low for me. The car as it sits now is totally apart, right down to the bare frame. As far as the fuse panel goes, I could put it in a drawer under the passenger seat. My '04 Dodge van has a similar pull out drawer to your PT. Probably the same thing. It could also be made to come out far enough to access all the wiring to the panel. I'm not at all worried about any sheet metal work for ducting, that's easy enough. That's quite the job you did on the '35 I must say.
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: Old Ray]
#2206717
12/02/16 11:20 PM
12/02/16 11:20 PM
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26 British Columbia, Canada
cocobolo
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As far as the fuse panel goes, I could put it in a drawer under the passenger seat. My '04 Dodge van has a similar pull out drawer to your PT. Probably the same thing. It could also be made to come out far enough to access all the wiring to the panel. No. Because I have done it. (magic wagon drawer) I thought it sounded good too and it looks cool, but there are a couple of drawbacks (learnt afterwards of course) ; it takes a lot more wire because if you are using it as a distribution source then the fused power goes to the dash switch and then back to the panel and then out to the switched device, this all adds up to a lot of wire and becomes very difficult to hide neatly and interferes with the opening and closing of the drawer. Also the seat cushion sits overtop of the open drawer and limits accessibility. Ask me how I know all this? I will do it differently next time, with more accessible. My shop truck; Ray, I didn't have in mind using an open topped drawer. It would seem to me to be begging for trouble. I will have more than 3" of vertical space, as that is the height of the channel which I raised the seats with. Probably more like 4" plus. That should be plenty. We will use a larger wire gauge as necessary if any of the runs get lengthy. But as Gene points out, those cars are tiny inside. Not a lot of added length in any event. Another option might be to conjure up a hinged panel mounted on the firewall, such that when it opens, you are looking at the business side of things. Or maybe mounted on some sort of sliding mechanism. There will be a way.
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2206723
12/02/16 11:25 PM
12/02/16 11:25 PM
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26 British Columbia, Canada
cocobolo
member
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member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26
British Columbia, Canada
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I'm not running any type of heat or a/c. With the windshield cranked out and the cowl vent opened, that's just about as good as a/c. If it gets cold enough for heat, i'll park it, or get one of those heaters that you plug into your cig. lighter. Because my windshield has been chopped, the builder didn't leave the open function working, it is now fixed. But the cowl vent still works just fine. We only got to make a couple of relatively short trips this year, and the vent did the job. However, I would like some heat and defrost for the many cooler days we get up this way...just have to work out how to get it functional. I'm liking Gene's mention of the slots in his '35. Seems like a good way to go.
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: Old Ray]
#2206891
12/03/16 12:19 PM
12/03/16 12:19 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,239 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,239
north of coder
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as far as seats go, some second row minivan bench seats work very well at times. i used the third row, folding bench from my 95 caravan in my cousin's 28 model A [i know, it's not a mopar, but it's tiny inside that cab] roadster pickup. i also incorporated the second row buckets tilt/latch mechanism along with the worn out hood gas struts from my wife's '94 concorde. that setup works super ! not only does the back fold forward, the entire seat rises to gain access [not much, but any extra room in one of these is greatly appreciated] to storage behind, and under the seat. i did, however, need to slightly narrow the framework on the bottom in a pie shape cut on both front corners to fit the body, as the seat at the front fit as was, but was right against the doors without upholstery. in all, [if i remember right] it was 1 1/2" per side. real easy to do, and i reused the original foam after cutting a tiny slice from each side. the upholstery guy did the rest. i also made that stainless steel, four spoke, wood steering wheel. i'm not sure i want to go through that again ! that was a story in it's own !
Last edited by moparx; 12/03/16 12:22 PM.
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: moparx]
#2236720
01/18/17 03:08 PM
01/18/17 03:08 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,502 Shelby, Ohio
2abodymcodes
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,502
Shelby, Ohio
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the interior is whatever the wife picks out. All the interior metal trim and dash will be a Kameleon color that changes. It's called Rosey Purpleen. It will be this color.
Last edited by 2abodymcodes; 01/18/17 03:10 PM.
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2239048
01/22/17 03:29 PM
01/22/17 03:29 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506 Az
Crizila
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506
Az
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the interior is whatever the wife picks out. All the interior metal trim and dash will be a Kameleon color that changes. It's called Rosey Purpleen. It will be this color. Awesome!! I basically did the same thing with my 33 Coupe - "interior is what ever the wife picks out". There are some things that are better left up to the lady of the house so to speak. Interiors are one of them IMO. I would have ended up with some cheap bucket seats in basic black with a steering wheel and gauges to match, but ended up with - - - - thanks to the wife.
Fastest 300
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: Crizila]
#2241459
01/26/17 03:00 AM
01/26/17 03:00 AM
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26 British Columbia, Canada
cocobolo
member
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member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26
British Columbia, Canada
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the interior is whatever the wife picks out. All the interior metal trim and dash will be a Kameleon color that changes. It's called Rosey Purpleen. It will be this color. Awesome!! I basically did the same thing with my 33 Coupe - "interior is what ever the wife picks out". There are some things that are better left up to the lady of the house so to speak. Interiors are one of them IMO. I would have ended up with some cheap bucket seats in basic black with a steering wheel and gauges to match, but ended up with - - - - thanks to the wife. Very nice. Do you have a build thread anywhere on your car?
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: cocobolo]
#2241772
01/26/17 05:43 PM
01/26/17 05:43 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506 Az
Crizila
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506
Az
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the interior is whatever the wife picks out. All the interior metal trim and dash will be a Kameleon color that changes. It's called Rosey Purpleen. It will be this color. Awesome!! I basically did the same thing with my 33 Coupe - "interior is what ever the wife picks out". There are some things that are better left up to the lady of the house so to speak. Interiors are one of them IMO. I would have ended up with some cheap bucket seats in basic black with a steering wheel and gauges to match, but ended up with - - - - thanks to the wife. Very nice. Do you have a build thread anywhere on your car? Go to Custom33 on face book. Owner of the company posted lots of pics of my build.
Fastest 300
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: Crizila]
#2243415
01/29/17 03:43 PM
01/29/17 03:43 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,502 Shelby, Ohio
2abodymcodes
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,502
Shelby, Ohio
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Finally getting it back together. Spent all day Saturday setting the body back on the frame.
Don't know why, but it won't let me download pictures today.
Last edited by 2abodymcodes; 01/29/17 03:47 PM.
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2244619
01/31/17 12:51 PM
01/31/17 12:51 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506 Az
Crizila
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506
Az
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Looking good!! You are making great progress. Anxious to see how all the periphery's (HVAC, wipers, electrical, etc ) are all going to go in. Since I have reverse mounted ( under the dash ) dual Wilwood masters, space went from tight to TIGHT between the dash and firewall on my build. I went with the smallest Vintage air unit available. Still ate up the entire right side of the under dash area. Ducting for 3 levels of heat ( defrost, mid, floor) also killed lots of space. Wiper system sits directly in front of the heater box. If I had to do it again, don't think I would have installed a wiper system. Rain-X just works too good! I did split up my electrical system. My battery and controls for the power door locks and windows are located behind the seat with access doors in the trunk front wall. Main fuse panel is located in the center area under the dash in a swing down panel ( that don't swing down much anymore) for easy access - NOT!
Fastest 300
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: cocobolo]
#2258861
02/24/17 06:33 PM
02/24/17 06:33 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,066 Eugene, Oregon
minivan
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,066
Eugene, Oregon
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Home Depot sells what appears to be an identical product for home duct use. The Fat Mat may be slightly thicker, but the idea is the same. Far less money. I tried some and it really does work. I have used the "duct" product with great results for around 80% less cost than fat mat....
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2264224
03/06/17 12:10 PM
03/06/17 12:10 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506 Az
Crizila
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506
Az
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Nice work!! Just from the looks of it, you might have to go with a special off set if you want the rear tires to sit with-in the rear fenders - lots of off set to the inside. Beautiful cowl ship logo! Hard to find!
Fastest 300
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2276949
03/27/17 02:18 AM
03/27/17 02:18 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,486 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,486
Freeport IL USA
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Making some progress on my 33. Mounted my tail lights. They are Mad Dad brand LED Harley Davidson tail lights. Pretty bright for the size of them. I also have my rear hubs and rotors at a machine shop getting them re-drilled to 5x4.50 They were 5x 108mm and I they don't make very many wheels that size. I had bought wheel adapters, but that set them out too far. Those taillights look pretty cool. My only concern is the angle they appear to be mounted at. Are they going to be easy to see from behind, for the person following you at a safe distance, or will they not be able to see them until they get up too close? Gene
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2279891
03/31/17 10:00 PM
03/31/17 10:00 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,502 Shelby, Ohio
2abodymcodes
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,502
Shelby, Ohio
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The body is finally all together. Next I have to make some bumper brackets to tuck the stock front bumper in close to the body and send my stock front bumper to Tri-City for chrome. I'll have to make my rear bumper.
Last edited by 2abodymcodes; 03/31/17 10:01 PM.
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2325481
06/22/17 11:25 PM
06/22/17 11:25 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,502 Shelby, Ohio
2abodymcodes
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,502
Shelby, Ohio
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I haven't been on here for a while. slowly making progress on my 33. Installing my Painless wire harness ,hooking up the lights and so stuff. Wife didn't like the looks of the stock bumper so I made some out of thick wall 1 3/4" tubing. Sent them to the chrome shop and just got them back this week. I also made some brackets to fit a Harley Davidson front light bar to the front bumper. Had all the brackets chromed. Everything looks good. The small round lights are my LED front turn signals and also running lights.
Last edited by 2abodymcodes; 06/22/17 11:26 PM.
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2330852
07/03/17 06:43 PM
07/03/17 06:43 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 457 Hightstown, NJ
njdevil2
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 457
Hightstown, NJ
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Thanks for this thread.
My lease is up in 2019 on my Jetta (don't ask...) and I will need to replace this car. My daughter who is an "old souL', likes the look of the pre-war cars and being I already had my roadrunner convertible, she wanted something that would fit her personality. Her 1st car is still in Dallas waiting for me to go get it (1987 Reliant)...but that is again another story.
I want to build something with a modern drivetrain like a 5.7 Hemi automatic and all the comforts - air/heat/P/S and disk brakes. It will be a daily driver and it will be driven by her to work and back.
So the obvious question begs, can I do something with a re-enforced chassis or would it be wiser to slip something under a '30's '40's body and just make the interior like old school?
I have 2 years to pull this off and a garage on the way....lol.
Love the thread and thanks for all who contributed!
Looking forward to the completion of the '33!
1970 road runner Convertible 1 of 179
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2331106
07/04/17 12:29 AM
07/04/17 12:29 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,486 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,486
Freeport IL USA
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njdevil2, I suppose you could pull off this build you want to do in 2 years, you have your work cut out for you, for sure. Realistically? I think the "a garage on the way" is going to be a problem, unless that "garage on the way" is a fully equipped shop your getting next week.... Then, I'm a bit concerned about the questions your asking, it sounds like you may not have a lot of experience. 2 years on this big of a build is going to have a pretty steep learning curve. I suggest you get started now... This is not to say it can't be done. If you start out with a modern Hemi car, pull the sheet metal, and cover the chassis with a 40s (or 50s) body (a 30s body is too small to be even close to fitting), the time frame might look more promising. Your still going to have to perform a lot of modifications to the chassis so it will mate up with an old body, and then you will have a lot of modifications to do with the body so it will look OK. On www.killbillet.com (its a rat rod site, and you may have to join to see the pictures, its free to join) in the 50s truck section there was a guy that put a 50s international pickup body on a Hemi Durango chassis. The build was pretty well documented, with pictures and descriptions of the process. The same process could be done with nearly any 40s or 50 Mopar car or truck, and the body can be finished to suit. Gene
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2332093
07/05/17 07:03 PM
07/05/17 07:03 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 457 Hightstown, NJ
njdevil2
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 457
Hightstown, NJ
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Well, Gene, thanks for the feedback. I am NOT by any means a body man, however I am well versed in suspension, mechanical, braking and electrical. By no means am I a BODY SHOP kinda guy. That being said, there are other means than scratch built, there are 2 local "projects" that I can take on where the body is about done and I can install the powertrain of my choice and adapt what I need to. There are, of course, ways to build things and I see that this and your projects are ground up. I'm not going for that. I have friends that weld and weld very well, thank you. I have all the tools needed to complete whatever I start. I am a mechanical by trade. Thanks for the "warning".
1970 road runner Convertible 1 of 179
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Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2487921
04/25/18 07:27 PM
04/25/18 07:27 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,506 AZ
Mike P
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,506
AZ
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Fantastic!!!!!
It took me 15 years before I got to test drive my 37 Dodge. I can attest to how good it feels to have them move without having to push them.
1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold 1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold 1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears)
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