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Re: How Do I make a 2.7L Live?
[Re: Dan Halen]
#1960972
12/01/15 03:04 PM
12/01/15 03:04 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 12,419 Kalispell Mt.
HotRodDave
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 12,419
Kalispell Mt.
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There are several thing contributing to sludge...
A water pimp that leaks into the oil, all water pumps leak a tiny bit over time this one does it in the oil and since it is so small it never looks like water in the oil.
The PCV gets clogged easily.
The tensioner bleeds down after sitting for a while, you start the car the chain jumps and you bend valves.
The really long chain stretches and the tensioner can no longer keep it tight and it bends valves.
The oil pimp is not quite big enough to keep pressure up as the engine wears, the oil light will begin to flicker after getting real good and warm in the summer, thicker oil helps for a while but also contributes to slow drain back.
The drain back is just not enough once it gets a little sludge and the pan will get sucked dry after a long run.
There is just too many issues to bother with this engine, listen to the %20 who get em over 100,000 or the %80 who don't your choice.
By the time yours was made at least the factory had made a couple atempts at making them last longer, the PCM will not let the car run if the chain jumps even one tooth, you can verify this when it happens by unpluggin the cam sensor, it will crank longer but then start and run. The tensioner had been "updated" but still had the same issues.
Just start casually looking for a wrecked 2.4 car of the same vintage so when the engine does take a crap you are prepared and not caught with your pants around your ankles looking for an engine. I suggest calling the local JYs and see if they have good 2.7s and what they cost if they have any.
I am not causing global warming, I am just trying to hold off a impending Ice Age!
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