If the Factory injection on my 360 Magnum can pour the fuel and air to a 7000 pound holiday trailer and 5800 pound truck, (6 mpg in the wind, up hills), it can probably feed a 440 just fine.

My way of looking at it anyway. I think too much "re-inventing the wheel" goes on when people get involved in EFI.

If I'm reading the OP's question, looks like the question is will a 46RE fit on a big block. The answer to that question is "Not right out of the box." All of the 46RE's bell housings utilize the small block pattern only. You will have to either get an adapter to fit your BB, plus there is always the hassle of the starter not being in the correct location -- I do not know from first hand knowledge, but I do believe you will be getting to know your grinder in a new way with the BB to get the starter to fit properly. Do some research on here to see what the deal is from someone who has used the BB to SB bell housing adapter and get the information from the horses mouth...........

The other solution involves cutting off a big block bell, cutting off the small block 46RE bell, and then carefully installing a big block bell on a 46RE by welding it on. Sounds like fun too -- but at least the starter will bolt right up with no issues if you're lucky enough to get the BB bell indexed correctly.......

Best of luck!!!!!!!

Maybe I haven't totally clear. I know how to combine a 518 with a 440 with the use of a Ultra Bell bellhousing or a JVXracing adapter kit.

I would like to know how to make de combination work.

A. using a controller, this would be an expensive option.
B. using a Transgo full manual shift kit and engaging the OD and lockup with a switch.

Because the fuel prices in Europe are very high I would like to use the 4th gear of a 518 and in this cae a 46RE.

Has anyone done this before?

JW Ultrabell. You cut the bellhousing off the trans, then bolt the ultra bell on using the front pump bolts on the trans case. You don't have to worry about indexing. However if you use an adapter plate, you are correct, you need to grind off the lower driver side block mounting ear to put the starter in the SB location.

If you have a 518 and still want it to work like an auto, just buy an normal shift kit and use pressure/vacuum switches to engage lockup and overdrive.

Transcenter Swap Info


You tap the pressure line on the trans and 1 PSI is approximatly equil to 1 MPH. So with in this diagram the OD would kick in/out at 44 MPH and the converter would lockup at 52 MPH, a drop in vacuum would act like a kick down disengaging OD and unlocking the converter.

It should work the same with a manual valve body. I would add a switch between the 44 PSI switch and connector to manually disable overdrive.

The numbers on the trans are PK 52118732 1585 2226 which means it is a A518, w/5.2L Eng. w/Electronic T/Converter Lock-Up, After 10-1-1992

However it doesn't have the 8 pins connector but the 3 pins connector.







The previous owner told me the trans came out of a 95's B250. However I don't know if this has anything to do with the fact that is was a European van. As being a overseas moparts member.

You're in luck, it's a RH.
Follow the link I posted above for everything you need to know.

You are in luck, it's a RH.
Follow the link I posted above for everything you need to know.

Even though the numbers say it's a RE??? I'm confused...

3 pin connector is RH. And the production date backs it up.

1996 model year was the first year for V8 RE transmissions. The RE first year production was 93-1/2 for the 4.0L Jeep Grand Cherokee.
No production V8 had a RE until 1996.

Yes, you have a transmission that has a lockup torque converter as well as overdrive -- the three pin setup controls both functions. The black deal is the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). You've got the good one so an electronic speedometer will work well with this setup. No more sloppy speedometer cable that ruins the pointer............

You've got a good RH setup. The problem with these OD transmissions is the overdrive portion. I do not know exactly what fluid port is too small, but there is an oil port that is too small that feeds the overdrive portion that is known to not get enough oil to it, so it will eventually burn it up. The overdrive portion is the aft portion where the black VSS is located. The front portion is put together just like a 727, so all of the upgrades you can do to a 727 you can do to this portion of the transmission. Don't go cheap on the torque convertor either -- this is where you want to spend the money on something that is stout -- you can get something really good for this, but it does cost money to buy whiskey........

I know there are lots of good quality transmission builders in the USA, and I can recommend John Cope at Cope Racing Transmissions as one of the the good guys. Just let him know what you are going to do with the vehicle and he should be able to get you what you need.

Best of luck!!!!!!!!!!!

Thx, guys!!

Now that's it clear that I've bought a RH, which options are there?

From personal experience, don't expect the A518 to improve your fuel-economy. I didn't gain anything going from a 904 & 7-1/4" combo to a 518 & 8-3/4".

It does however make the car more fun to drive because of the added transmission gear, which lets you install a deeper rear-axle gear and still maintain normal highway-rpms.

My experience is the exact opposite.  I picked up 5mpg on the highway.
It's simple math, you drop the RPMs by almost 30% the fuel economy has to improve.

Now if you changed the rear end gearing, that's another story.
And as mentioned, car is so much more fun to drive.

3.73 gears, 275/40/18 tire, 80mph only 2500 RPM.

Pure highway trips are indeed bound to show an improvement.
My experience was based on short, daily driven commutes to work, where the engine is just warmed up when I arrive.

Knowing that DickDale also lives in the Netherlands, although in a less crowded area than me, I think he'll only see a significant improvement in mileage if he takes the car out for a 1 or 2 hour trip.

With my 904 + 7-1/4" (3.23 gears) combo I've managed 17mpg once during a day of driving around the country.
These days I have a hard time getting 15mpg on similar trip (3.55 gears), eventhough my engine is better tuned than before.

I will make a 4 hour roundtrip next saturday and will try to get an exact mileage again.

The transgo full manual only changes the shifting it does NOTHING to the gov. circuit electronics , that is electronics .

The numbers don't say it's an RE , it says it has electronic convertor lockup.

If i want to operate LU and OD automatically which components do I need?