Trying to pic up speed before it becomes too cold to work on her.

Well, I didn't care for that hoop, and by the responses, I'm guessing neither did anybody else. Added main hoop diagonals, a lower cross brace between the diagonals, and a longer hoop mounted more forward than the last one.

Looks great but now it's too heavy w/all of those extra bars.........lol

It's ok. All of the added weight is close to the rear axle.

TRUE..........

Looks like you've made good progress!

Thanksgiving and part of Saturday progress. Taking a break. Have to go look at a computer.

Nice................

Starting to look pretty good, if I do say so, myself.

OK. Out of gas. This is where I landed after this weekend. Now, to get some Argon, and get some sleep.

You've come a LONG way rookie..............

Looks good.........Me personally I would have run the lower bar all the way across hoop instead of between kickers. And the reason is, because I "think" to be legal with a FC cage, your lower supports must attach to main rail or a floor bar. As constructed you really don't have a spot for lower supports.

And to be clear, by "supports" I am referring to the two bars directly behind driver. Pretty sure they have to extend from top of main hoop to floor. Not sure what you have will pass

Monte: The lower cross bar and angled supports are copied directly out of the SFI book (pg.13 25.4B manual). The only difference is that they have 2 lower uprights from the lower crossbar to the rear frame crossmember, but that is for a four link setup. My ladder bar crossmember is way too far forward for that. That is why I added 2 more diagonals going inboard, to support the funny car hoop. Also, I have an additional upper crossmember in the hoop. That was mostly by mistake, working off of how the bar gets put in when just building an 8 point roll bar. Decided to leave it for extra strength.

First, I guess I need to find out who makes the final call, SFI or NHRA. Then, maybe I can send them some pics and get some feedback. Thanks for the heads up, Monte. It will be a lot easier to make modifcations now then after car is done and painted.

They don't care that it is a ladder bar car or a 4 link car. That was my point, the two lower supports must tie in at the bottom........yours don't.

If your lower bar was all the way across, your two lower FC supports could land on bar from main hoop to rail and one on the rail

I get it. It's a pretty straight shot from the fc hoop to the ladder bar x member. I could come straight down from the bottom turn with a straight leg, and tie it into a rear driveshaft hoop.

For anyone that is interested, I finished installing LED lighting in my garage. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! Borrowed a camera from work. Here's some better pics of my project so far.

I think the reason you had trouble with the funny car cage is your cross bar on the main hoop is about 6" give or take a few to high. that's why you had to add all the extra bars. make sure your helmet wont go between the bars on the drivers right side, the distance between the bars looks large on the pics.

It does look bright which lights did you get?

Quicktree: My helmet won't fit between any two bars. The lower bar on the inside of the funny car cage is close to elbow level, too low to get the helmet through unless my head pops off my shoulders first. I need to get a shot with the seat installed and someone sitting in it with the helmet on.
Racerx: I went from 2 bulb 48" fluorescent to UT workshop LED lights from Lowes. $49 each. Used four of them in a 22 x 25 shop. Instant on when the light switch is hit. I have a center outlet where the electric door opener is mounted. Might put a fifth light there to kill any other shadows while welding. There is a pull string on the light to turn them on and off, which will be needed for the center outlet, which is always live.