So I finally got the 400BB in the volare running like a beast, but now I am having issues with the trans, reverse is really sluggish to the point of high rpms to move, and 3rd gear sounds like its free revving. I modified the valve body per the transgo TF-2 instructions for the street strip with shift command, I know that the valve body is good to go, since its the same one i had in my boosted slant and that thing was a beast, and shifted gears just fine, I am thinking that maybe the front band might need tightening up, since the transgo instructions say tighten till snug then back off 2 turns.....whats snug ? lol any advice or help is greatly appreciated, first and second shift no issues in auto and manual mode ( courtesy of my hurst V-matic 2) but no thrid just a high whine and like i already said reverse works but high rpms to make her move. also installed my own cable kickdown, used the buchillon for inspiration, and adjusted per there instructions,

Thanks,
-Mike

In my world "snug" is more than "Finger tight" and less than "Tight".
Now I don't mean to be a smart ass, it is just a matter of feel.

If you had the trans out of the car you probably would roll over the front drum and tighten the band until it dragged or even would not roll anymore, then back off the 2 or 3 turns on the adjusting screw and tighten the locknut. And do the same on the rear band. Make sure the filter screen is clean and that the fluid is up to proper level cause you may just be lacking fluid.

Front clutch issue. If the valve body was fine in another transmission, then it is likely the front clutch rubber seals.

High/reverse clutch or clutch apply circuit is the issue. It's the only component applied in both 3rd and reverse. Did you install the cupped orifice plug in the high clutch apply passage in the case? Did the trans function before the valve body mods? Was it rebuilt? If so did you air check the clutch? The bad news unless its a valve body malfunction the trans has to come out. The good news is the high clutch is cheap and easy to repair once the trans is out. Let us know.
Doug

dvw- Yes i did install the cupped orifice plug in the trans, I was told the trans functioned right up to being pulled and stored, I never ran it with the stock valve body, just my modified one. Not rebuilt to my knowledge

Polarapete- that's exactly how I did it with the trans out and doing the transgo mods, also had my handy "torqueflite A-727" by Carl H. Munroe at my side since he does the exact mods in the transgo kit in the book, I triple checked the fluid and the levels looked good, maybe a bit above the dipstick full reading, I don't think a bit over the line could cause these issues, and from what ya'll have said and a bit more research its really looking like front clutch issues, gonna readjust the front band and see if it helps at all, I am hoping i might have been on the loose side of snug,

-Mike

The K/D band is applied in 2nd gear only, has nothing to do with 3rd or reverse. If the clutch was weak to start with the cupped orifice plug restricts the volume of fluid being sent to it. Step 1 Drop the pan and valve body. Material in the pan? If yes, pull the trans. If pan is clean. Step 2: Get a rubber tipped blow gun and feed the passage with the cupped plug with air. Clutch should thump with slight or no air hissing. Loud air hissing? Clutch piston seals or reaction shaft rings are leaking, pull trans. No material and no hiss my bet is a valvebody issue.
Doug

Should I remove that orifice plug when i drop the valve body ? I am pretty sure I didn't have it in my 904/ turbo 225 setup, yea just read in the instructions, ONLY for 727's, so is it really a necessary item to install ? book says only about 25-30 psi, will that be enough psi to test ?

-Mike

Leave the plug in. It reduces flow but a healthy clutch will live fine. The TF2 kit uses it to delay the high gear clutch so it doesn't come on with the K/D band (overlap, 2 gears at once). I use regular shop air 100psi. but I'm sure 30 will work as well.
Doug

So you know basically NOTHING about this trans .

The symptoms point to a problem with the front clutch pack, taking the plug out is not going to fix it.

I see a crash course in rebuilding a 727 in your future.

well I adjusted the kickdown band took it out, had reverse, but no third at all, then once it got warm ( driving around the neighborhood) still no third and reverse started slipped and shuddering, so it looks like shes gonna be coming out.............not fun in a cramped Volare, torn down and rebuilt.... but first to test the front clutch pressure feed hole just to eliminate that, any recommendations for who to go through for parts to rebuild the trans ? I really wasn't looking to sink a ton into it, I have been planning to swap a T-56 in come tax return in January/February time frame, other wise its gonna be an automatic for a bit longer,

-Mike

You can repair the front clutch yourself for less than $50. Even w/o special tools. Not rocket science. Get the trans out and I'll walk you through it.
Doug

Sounds great what parts will i need ?

-Mike

Metal seal ring kit, 4 clutch fibres, 4 steel plates, filter. The front band will be right there as well (2nd gear). If you chose and there are no leaks currently you can probably just get away with a pan gasket. Or go all out and buy a pump seal, babbit front pump bushing and paper and gasket kit. If you want a complete overhaul and go through the whole thing but that may be deeper than you want to go.
Doug

any benefit if I go with 5 thin red vs 4 normal thickness clutches ?Ho w do you know if you have a high gear drum ? Also I am leaning more towards A&A for the parts, but also hear a lot of great things about CRT, but then again turbo action is local to me, anyone have experience with the turbo action tranz box rebuild kit ? Also the A&A kit is only $150 vs the TA tranz box at $314 (on jegs), judging by the description they include the same parts,

-Mike

All 727 have a high/reverse drum. They can be 3 plate or 4 plate. I always use the 4 plate. You don't know what you have until it's disassembled. Rick at A&A is great to work with. Clutch capacity needs are based on power. I've run standard 4 plate Rabestoes in low 10 second cars for over 700 passes and still looked good at teardown. My current 9.0 car run 5 thin red plates. Rebuild parts are pretty generic. If you're going to replace the K/D band I'd suggest red material as well, not Kevlar. Other than theK/D and high drum we run all the stock stuff.
Doug

well heres pics of the tear down so far.....how far down the rabbit hole we go from here....

this might not even apply to the prob at hand but a FYI I could not get my bands to torque to 72 INCH lbs (then back off several turns of course). I kept going tighter and tighter to where I knew I had to stop & regroup before I broke something. Kunkel had me set the gap(s) to 1/4 and 5/16 (I forget which was the front and rear) as that is the bottom line just like valve lash. (904) Holler how things turn out.

I'll post a pic of the band, but there is no deformation or cracks, the band material still looks good, slight discoloration on the steel band itself, but i think that is from sitting the "god knows how long it had been, owner swapped it for an 833 xx years ago....