Was wondering how many of you use weight ballast.I just finished fabbing up the box i plan on using,but now Iam having second thoughts as in what to use for weight...Also i would like to know some of your thoughts on where to mount the ballast.Any and all ideas or experiences are welcome.

Are you trying to slow the car down or make weight in a specific class? Depending on car & set-up adding weight can make the car quicker. Moving weight to different spots can either slow the car or pick-up from my own experiences and working with several guys who run stockers.

Kind of the same question but why do you want to ad weight? I just added 35 lbs to mine to make sure it stays over 2800, it now tips the scales at 2840 full of fuel, figure it will always have at least 2 gallons or so on board. Mine was all added to the nose of the car.

.. I'am def not trying to slow the car down if anything iam hoping this will pick it up alittle.I feel that i'am losing alot of e.t. at the starting line...and i can tell this by how inconsistent the car is with it's 60ft.I'am hoping to get rid of some of the spinning...i feel that i will gain et even with the added weight..if you had to guess...how much weight would a stocker add,on an avg....50lbs..75..100??

1967 Plymouth Satellite best e.t 11.30 @ 117 with a 1.53 60ft...451 cid-750 BG carb,M1 intake,MP 452 alum. heads,557 MP cam...4.10 gear and a 30x9 slick.
If this is the combo, you should not have any problem getting this car hooked up on a 9" tire.
What suspension do you have in the back? What t bars and shocks up front?

Put the weight box on the right side in the trunk as far back as you can get it, is the battery in the trunk now? If not put it there now also, in front of the weight box so you can remove the battery easily as needed instead of fighting the weight box. Most of the NHRA class racers I know use lead weights in 5 lb. increments in the box to make the mininum car weight for class. If you need to add permenent weight it has to be bolted to the frame or a frame member like a cross memeber to be NHRA legal, check the rule book to do that the legal way I used a 45 lb piece of steel bolted to the rear shock cross memeber on my stocker, a heavy spare tire(big radial) and wheel and then added weight to the weight box to make the car legal weight to run the next lower class, from A/SA to B/SA. Added weight on the rear usually helps make the car hook up better, if the car is a factory stocker and has not been massaged to get better weight distibution. Good luck, keep us posted on your changes and results

It's a ladder bar car w/ coil overs..and the front end is all stock other than shocks which are KONI 90/10.it's not that the car won't hook..it just wont hook consistently...which is my fault for building a small tire car and trying to bracket race with it..

I have 2 weight boxes in each corner as far back as possible. Bags of lead shot 25 lbs each works very well.
Jamie
1971 E/SA 3310 10:86 et 1.38 60'

Jamie...i was hoping someone would mention lead shot...that was my plan all along but just wasn't sure about it...the box i built will bolt to the frame...it will be removable w/in minutes..and i'll be able to add or subtract weight quickly..

...for the evening crowd...any other suggestion on what to use in a weight ballast box?...and does anyone have pics of any ballast box set-ups..

Per NHRA rules for a stocker the max weight
you can add is 100 lbs in the box.

You can use lead shot (in canvas bags) or
solid bars of lead or steel.

What ever you use just can not be loose (shot)
in the box.

between my chassis rails & behind the rear bumper, i have 2x 3/4 bolts welded to a plate. my weights are 2' long, 3" wide & 3/8 thick. each one weighs 10lb. last weekend i bolted 40lbs to the car & we went faster. helped with the wheelstand too. it even improved my 60's by 0.04 so i guess i have less tyre spin when the brake is released now.

I also had to add weight to make 2800lbs. I built 2 weights that weigh just under 100lbs each. They are 2X3 ret tubes filled with melted lead with a 1/4 ear welded on each end. The ears are bolted to the 2X3 frame rails under the car.

Don't forget that only 100lbs can be removable, on the second bar I tack welded the nut to the bolt and that makes it permanent.

Mine are mounted so far apart because my fuel tank is mounted underneath the floor between the 2 bars. I've subequently removed one bar because I replaced my alum heads with iron ones and with the added weight didn't need the second bar.

Bluecuda..those boxes are very similar to the one i built..plan on putting bagged lead shot in it.Probably start with 50 pounds and go from there.is there anything special that should be done to the alignment with the car when running weight ballast?I was told that the car wouldn't handle very well at the big end with weight set far back in the car.Anyone have any experience with the handling issue while running alot of ballast?Thanks for the replies fellas... [image][/image]