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yes but the positive at the alternator will be hot...thats why I have a solonoid..

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ok i've been warned at the track already, how should i run the wires 'cause i don't think the instructions that came with the switch to just interupt the pos batt cable with the switch will be adequet? do i just also run the alt batt wire back to the switch then back forward to the factory batt term on the firewall to basically interupt this circuit with the switch as well? again, sorry i'm a bit thick on this

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The easy way, with no relays required.....

Disconnect the factory alternator(heavy b+) output wire from the alt.

Run a heavy wire/cable from the alt B+ to the battery positive terminal in the trunk (or the SAME side of the switch that the battery positive is on)

In review....2 pole switch.
One side has the alt B+ wire, AND the batt pos on it.
The other side has the cable that goes up to the starter solenoid,(where the factory pos wire used to go)

It's really that simple.

No relays, only one extra wire, it'll shut the car off every time, and pass tech every time.

The rules state that electrical function must cease, and it all does.

Think of it this way. The car needs B+ to run.
The batt OR the alt can provide B+
By putting them both on the SAME side of the switch, you isolate them both from the rest of the car when you throw the switch.

The other benefit, your ammeter is now bypassed. no chance of melting anything.

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ok i've been warned at the track already, how should i run the wires 'cause i don't think the instructions that came with the switch to just interupt the pos batt cable with the switch will be adequet? do i just also run the alt batt wire back to the switch then back forward to the factory batt term on the firewall to basically interupt this circuit with the switch as well? again, sorry i'm a bit thick on this

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The easy way, with no relays required.....

Disconnect the factory alternator(heavy b+) output wire from the alt.

Run a heavy wire/cable from the alt B+ to the battery positive terminal in the trunk (or the SAME side of the switch that the battery positive is on)

In review....2 pole switch.
One side has the alt B+ wire, AND the batt pos on it.
The other side has the cable that goes up to the starter solenoid,(where the factory pos wire used to go)

It's really that simple.

No relays, only one extra wire, it'll shut the car off every time, and pass tech every time.

The rules state that electrical function must cease, and it all does.

Think of it this way. The car needs B+ to run.
The batt OR the alt can provide B+
By putting them both on the SAME side of the switch, you isolate them both from the rest of the car when you throw the switch.

The other benefit, your ammeter is now bypassed. no chance of melting anything.

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Exactly like I said above.

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The easy way, with no relays required.....

Disconnect the factory alternator(heavy b+) output wire from the alt.

Run a heavy wire/cable from the alt B+ to the battery positive terminal in the trunk (or the SAME side of the switch that the battery positive is on)

In review....2 pole switch.
One side has the alt B+ wire, AND the batt pos on it.
The other side has the cable that goes up to the starter solenoid,(where the factory pos wire used to go)

It's really that simple.

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Thats the way I did it. Battery and 1 wire alternator wire to one side of switch and everything else to the other side of switch. Why would you do it any other way? Is there any advantage to using all the selenoids?

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Doug, I'm guessing the mad electric wire kit comes with the less expensive relay. I've used some of the cheapest relays ever and never had an issue with the relays. I ALWAYS carried a spare.

I generally wire it like the first diagram and use two relays. One for the starter and wired like the diagram. The second I remove the alt wire from the starter relay in the first diagram and run it like the 3rd diagram with the s605.

Once the car starts, the only two hot wires to the front run to the starter relay lug and the alternator wire.

The starter wire/cable is only hot when the key is in the start position.

Hope that helps. It's a bit of a hybrid of the two as I don't like any of the three on a standalone basis. My thinking is that once you throw the cut off, everything beyond the switch and relays should be dead. Keep anything hot contained to a small area in the trunk.

Revised the way I like to wire them up.

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Rob,,,,
Is there an advantage to running TWO relays,,,,
Wouldnt the pic below be OK ?
Sorry,,,i am learning here,,,,
Seems like the same thing ??
(ps,,in your pic,,you have 2 "different" relays,,one a "ford" the other a sBorg ? (is there a difference,,),,again forgive my electrical knowledge,,