I put a East Coast Auto mini on mine, works good but looks like it came off a Kubota tractor. lol

I've always used a stock Moapr alternator on the motors with elephant ears and front motor plates until I got my current Cuda, I use a Powermaster 100 amp single wire GM style on it do to it not having a charging system on it. My Duster with the 400 pump gas stroker motor had a OEM 45 amp Mopar alternator on it until it died, I bought a Tuff Stuff brand 100 amp Mopar bolt on replacement from Summit, that work very well More amps when needed is way better than not quite enough

I would entertain making a bracket for a newer Mopar style alternator.

I'll deal with the charging problems before I put any GM related parts on my Mopar. I'm sure I should buy a cowl hood to right?.....

lol

A cowl hood would look better than any of the mopar scoops on yor Dart.

This is what I did for my 65 Plymouth.

[img]<a href="http://s1028.photobucket.com/user/digger731/media/IMAG0143_zpsiiuqygyf.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1028.photobucket.com/albums/y349/digger731/IMAG0143_zpsiiuqygyf.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMAG0143_zpsiiuqygyf.jpg"/></a>[/img]

I'm new to this photo adding stuff so please bear with me.

I guess I don't have the magic to post pictures.
Sorry.
I can email them if you PM me with your email.

Digger73 (Mike)

Yea cuz dealing with charging problems all the time is so relaxing and fun lol. And yes a cowl hood would look sweet on your Dart.


Here's my Toyota alternator.....

Kinda hard to see when it's mounted low.

This is the AR-Engineering kit to install it on a motor plate.

What ProSport said..."Use the AR-Engineering plate, it's nice. I use it along with a stock type water pump housing, I haven't had it milled because my pulleys line up good. But I only have 2.75 inches between the water pump snout and my radiator, so I use a cheap flex fan along with a shroud.
I use a Toyota Denso alternator and will never go back to a mopar setup, it's small, mounted low, and charges at 14 volts at all times, best setup I've ever owned. I'm sure alot of guys have the mopar setups ironed out but I always had problems with them."


Ditto...have 71 Dart, 440-727, TTI. Go with AR-Engineering plate, it has proper off-set with RB in A-Body which will be important in ensuring TTI fit and function. Went with Denso Alternator and did some of my own fab on top mounting it (stock alternator location) with the motor plate.

Can't argue w/ this logic.

Are building a street car or race car as I see you asking about glass doors in another thread...If your trying to go fast ya may be in trouble with all MOPAR parts,LOl.

Here's my 7 second street legal car with a gm hood & trans along with a ford rear...Mine's all steel except for hood & bumpers !!

My Dart with a gm hood and aftermarket alt...Does have a 904 trans & S60 rear tho !!

Gary I think he would rather run the 14.28 @ 93 if it meant he could stay with all mopar parts

Chevy hoods, Ford 9"s, and don't forget the power glides! lol

Hey if it works great. I am just not a fan of GM designs, and have always had bad blood with the 85% of GM population that races in my area.

I appreciate the help and advice though guys!

That is sweet!

Try and remember, by owning and racing a "Mopar" your going against the grain to start with Being strong enough to do what you want only makes you stronger Many people on here have really good intentions, many cars guys, no matter what brand they like, think thier way is the only, thier wrong Keep on keeping on

Any part that is BETTER or makes my car BETTER, I use it, no matter who made it or where it came from.

Nobody but YOU will likely care that your Mopar is 100% Mopar.....and that's fine if you want it to be that way, but it seems that you or anyone else would simply want your cars to perform better. If that's a better charging system, front suspension, rear suspension, trans, rear, whatever...........no need to handicap yourself even more.

If your Dart still has the stock 68 wiring, electrical system and alternator.........lets face it, good it's NOT. Not with all the high amp draw "cool guy" parts some run these days. When you are sitting at a light and rev the motor and your headlights get brighter, you know the electrical system leaves something to be desired.

Best upgrade I ever did with my ride was to rewire the whole car and upgrade the alternator to a "Chevy" one wire one with the low mounting alternator kit... No more flickering lights at idle and weird issues with the ignition and other electrical headaches... Only regret is I should have bought a 140Amp instead of the 100Amp I bought... and NO ONE has ever mentioned to me when looking under the hood of my ride that -You have a GM alternator...



/Tom

Done

Oh the humanity......