Looking at hooking up the manual choke linkage on my 71 charger. Engine is a 440 and I have a Edelbrock 1407 on it. The guy that had it before me had all this disassembled before I bought it. Looking at the Carb I am pretty sure that #1 on the picture is where the choke cable is held in place. #2 is where the inner choke cable should be attached. My question on #2 is what is the proper way to attach the inner choke cable to this spot. #3 on the carb I don't think is related to the choke cable.



Second question is a weird one. I can't figure out where the choke cable goes through the firewall. I would think it goes in a straight line between where the cable is attached inside the car and the carb but I don't see anything on the wall that makes sense.

Do you have the cable? I used a Dorman Help! Brand manual cable on my 1405 and can dig it out to take pics. There was a brass fitting that slides through #2 in your pic and the inner cable passes through that. You'll need to put a hole in your firewall in line with #1 in your pic. I had the control knob mounted under the dash in easy reach and cable wound over the heater box and out the firewall in line with the carb bracket.
I checked around my shop and am pretty sure I gave it away along with the 1405. Check Edelbrock for the carb manual it should have installation tips.

Pretty sure 71 Chargers did not come factory with a manual choke. So you need to route it how you want so that any bends are gentle. You may have to put a hole in, or you may find one you can use.

Most choke cables have an off set end that can only hook up one way.

The only 71 Chargers with a manual choke were those equipped with a Hemi. You could probably use a reproduction Hemi choke cable assembly to work with that. The hole was only added in the firewall when the car had a Hemi, you just need to drill it open, the hole is the one to the left with the rubber grommet in the attached pic, your orange box is covering where yours should be. Most manual chokes used a swivel with a lock down screw in the end of the choke flap ear which allowed for a good hook up for the choke cable/wire. What you have there uses a cable end that has an "L" shaped end that goes through the small hole in the tip of the choke flap ear. You are correct, item #3 does not have anything to do with the choke cable.

*I'd recommend switching to an electric choke setup for a street car .02

Here is how they used the manual choke on a 71 Hemi, complicated little [censored] (and expensive at $300.00 for a reproduction) but it attaches with 3 screws so it's easy to add.

And this is how they handled it for a Max Wedge, shows that swivel piece on the choke ear I mentioned above.

This style choke cable "L" end is what your current carb would use.

drill a hole in the firewall & use a black rubber grommett for a professional installation. (could paint it body color also)

I'm with Scott. Switch it to electric and forget drill a hole in the car

The manual choke of the ebrock have a lever similar to the max wedge setup you show , it would want a straight end on the cable .

Nothing is ever simple with this car of mine This is sort of a mystery as to why I have this manual choke switch in the car. Could the switch be for something else? I drew a red arrow showing the choke switch.



The firewall has me convinced that the car probably came with an electric choke but looking at the manual it makes it look like it was optional. How exactly does the electric choke wiring plug into the wiring harness? Does to #1 splice mean that they spliced the wire into the electrical harness? Seems weird that it would of come this way from the factory rather then just having a plug for it.

Your schematic doesn't show an electrical hookup for the choke. Looking up a choke thermostat for your 71 Charger w/440 shows that it doesn't have an electrical assist for the choke, just the exhaust cross over heat.

You have a non-stock carb and I suspect a PO added a manual choke to deal with the fact that it's incompatible with the stock choke linkage setup.

You can get a electric choke kit from Edelbrock and use the DBL wire in your schematic to power it. I usually tie into that wire at the ballast resistor, make sure you tie into the 12V side of the ballast.

I can't see photobucket stuff here on this connection but is this car an original Hemi car ? If not it came with a Thermostatic choke setup not electric.

Ok that makes a lot of sense. I think I'll buy the electric and hook the positive up the ballast and then the negative to the engine block or carb for ground.

This is the first I have worked with a carb before and surprised and how much time I am spending with it. I am not familiar with the carburetor solenoid. A quick google isn't turning up much on it. Maybe it also goes by a different name? Is this more of a option or a must have for the car to run correct.

It's an emissions thing, early carbs didn't have the solenoid.

It's used to keep the throttle blades from fully closing with the key on. I forget exactly why that was necessary anymore, since I don't run stock carbs either.

Very cool. Thanks for all the help.

Actually, the emissions solenoid was there to open the throttle blades slightly when the engine was running. There was a problem with the engines Dieseling after the ignition was shut off. And, closing the throttle blades far enough to eliminate this Dieseling shut off the air needed for idling. So the solenoid when energized opened the throttle to the idle setting.

But that's not all.

The engine produces a great amount of unburned stuff when you quickly take your foot off the gas. The high vacuum sucks too much fuel into the engine causing a momentary rich spike. So, many manual transmission cars got a solenoid to slow down the throttle closing. This could be bothersome as you'd take your foot off the gas and the engine revs wouldn't respond quickly.

Then there were the solenoids that kicked up the idle to run the air conditioning compressor without killing the engine at idle.

I don't know which use the solenoid would have had on your car, but unless you need it for emissions purposes I believe it can be left off.

R.

Thanks for clearing that up.

I suggest you find a keyed 12v source and NOT use the ballast circuit , the voltage on the coil side of the ballast is less than 12v and the choke wants a 12v source. Many people connect it to the coil because they are too lazy to find a proper source.

I did not know the factory ever used a cable for the choke in 1971 on Hemi cars as I thought they were all auto chokes by then ? I take it thats what you are saying Scott right ? That the factory used manual chokes on 71 Hemi's ? Ron

I suggest you find out where the factory tapped into for the ballast, choke assist and field voltage. Same exact circuit, hence the suggestion and the pointer to make sure he hooked up to the 12V side of the ballast.

I do believe the factory tapped into the J2 circuit just before it got to the ballast for the electric and electric assist chokes. To the best of my memory thats where they tapped into to power the choke but it has been alot of years since I worked on them. Ron

The factory did a lot of stupid things, especially when it came to underhood wiring .

Yes, in 71 the Hemi cars got a manual choke. The handle was to the left of the air grabber switch on the B bodies, and I think to the right of the steering column on the E bodies. For the OP they are reproducing the factory cable.

All hooked up now with the electrical choke. Need to shorten my ground wire still but all I have left now is to hook up the positive electrical. I saw some recommendations not to use the ballast. Was curious what other 12v suggestions anybody might have that I could connect to and that would look nice. Included a couple pics.