Lookin good!

Good luck on it! If you have any questions feel free to give my old man a call as we have finished up our alluminum ritter block engine. The last issue we had, and hopefully we can help you avoid with yours was oil drain back to the pan from the valley. The enclosed cam tunnel with small drain backs is not enough and after a short time on the engine dyno the pan was empty. We had to disassemble it, and put better drain back passages in it, and it is happy now. A lot of hours chewed up though.

Wayne @ Joss Engines. 1-403-320-7272

-Kenny

I have the first aluminum 9.600 xr2 that I am doing now.Hope to post some on here of it as we make progress.

That's super cool, hope it works out for you. Should be mean!

Thanks Brad.I hope it works out good too.I was told the aluminum block doesn't have the core shift like the cast blocks.

I for one would like to see everyone make a go of these blocks.if kent and everyone else involved with these are at least willing to invest their time and money to come up with a viable solution to mopar not being able to supply blocks for the performance side then I applaud their efforts.sure with his stockpile of parts he stands to make financial gain but they are the ones that stuck their necks out to get this far.nothing that is as innovative as trying to do a block to cover such a broad array of heads and combos will come without large growing pains but without a couple brave souls who work thru these problems nothing will be accomplished.maybe the ones who have been there and done that can help others who are willing to give it a go .we will see how things work out and be more than helpful to others who try if we can

but I wanted to see what kind of money
it would take to get it to a running block.. so far
it doesnt look bad... drain back seems to be the big
issue... I'd like to see how they corrected that...
the pick up issue is nothing.. but glad it was brought
up so people know of it

Ask Jeff Allison he had a great amount invested in his as far as I know got nothing in return except a nice boat anchor

Was his the iron or alum block

He has an iron block as I did too. I returned mine. I had a long talk with lawndart. His block looks like there have been corrections that the iron blocks had. He made his own drain bad holes in the valley, not a big deal.

Whitedart has the only running iron block that I know of.

I am keeping a list with pictures of all of the things that we (my machinist and I) would like to see changed on this block.
I had a long phone conversation with Wayne last Friday about all of the things he did to get the first prototype block running. Very smart man. After talking to Wayne it sounds like my block and the block he machined up have all of the same problems. After I get this thing running I will be contacting Kent and see if we can get these problems solved. It seems that most of the problems are in the machining of the block.
Thanks for all of the input on this project.
Mike

Subscribed.

What is the weight of the aluminum block with main caps and a ball park price? I wonder if this would be good for a road race block....

I will do what I can next week hopefully.




Shipping weight was 94lbs. with no sleeves in the block. IIRC the price was similar to an R3 with out the sleeves in the XR block.


-Kenny

My Brother was up at Kent's this weekend getting some stuff and was getting an update on the blocks. Kent said he got the block approved by NHRA for stock and SS racing. My brother has two blocks on order: An aluminum XR2 for P7 heads. It has been cast and machined and is getting sleeves in right now. And the second is an iron XR1 48 degree. It is to be cast with the next pour at the end of November 2015. Machining to be done in December 2015. I will let everyone know how they turn out.
Dave

What's the aluminum one cost machined and sleeved? I'd like to do a big inch P7

We are still talking about lifter valley drainback?

The R2 and R3 blocks had no drainbackbuilt in. It's not the enclosed tunnels fault. On the R blocks you can expose the cam and the oil drains on the spinning assembly if that's OK with the builder. On R5 or the XR blocks you have to open the bottom of the cam tunnel as well with wet sump. The R5's have been converted using 3/4" holes on either side of cam bearings to drain oil.

On R block I drained around distributor and using stock drain holes to drain behind belt drive. Trick is the heads need to drain seperate with that limited drainback around lifter valley. Haven't seen that on R5 or XR. I run R5 with dry sump, haven't needed to experiment this.

If you like swiming in oil, limit your drainback and add oil to keep from starving, NOT. Don't skimp making drainback passages. Wonder if anyone ever thought of plumbing a secondary pickup plumbed to rear of cam tunnel. May be a disaster. May work.

Two stupid questions.....What is the difference between the XR1 and the XR2 aluminum blocks?

And what heads are you guys typically running on these?