My new RT didn't seem to have an issue or maybe a minor issue when it was in PA but since I got it home in Florida it has been a nightmare of vapor locking/boiling fuel in the carb (I have heard it). I have done all the "normal" stuff to combat heat but to no avail, I was trying a 1 inch spacer today but had a hood clearance issue so no go. I have an 850 DP Holley I can try but I need to go through it since it has been sitting awhile. It's 440 with a castiron intake, at least with the Holley I can run a thin heat shield and the bowls are suspended over the intake. What is the history on boiling with the Edelbrock?

Thanks in advance, Kevin

I've been running a 750 Edel for over 20 years on the street...

Been in some HIGH heat situations...

Zero 'percolation' issues...

(But, I mix the sh!t pump 'fuel' with REAL fuel(read: 110)...


I'd try and find SOME kind of carb gasket that'll get you off the intake...

Every little bit helps...

Is the pump fuel the same back in Penn that it is in Fl? I assume that you are now running E10.

all that has changed externally is the ambient temp and (possibly) the gasoline (E10) formula. Boiling is pretty severe, sounds like E10 plus a stuck heat riser (guessing on the HR). I would add a spacer and a drop base air cleaner to accomodate it. You're sure nothing else has changed?

I've tried several different fuel pumps, the one that was on it, a good high volume I had and then a new one just in case. I have run both E10 and non-ethanol fuel with no notable difference cause I wondered if the ethanol was different down here, they don't even have non-ethanol in PA. Not to mention none of my other cars do it except maybe my 69 RT a little, also castiron intake but with a T-quad.

I know Detriot can get hot like PA but not sure it's the same as Fl, never been so I guess I cant say. What I experienced in PA was a hard hot soak start like it was bleed over after shut off. Cold it is 1 pat to the floor and electric choke works perfectly, even after sitting weeks.

I had an eddy 1406 elec choke on a DD 318 & it was flawless (had a ~3/8" felpro base gasket. Mostly non ethanol. In your situation sumpin has to be heating up the fuel in the bowl to the boiling point

Agreed but what, temp is fine, check with 2 sources, car is dark blue so maybe just more underhood temp but nothing I can detect. Running stock manaifolds so not even header heat. I am running a basic thin carb gasket, one of my thoughts as I mentioned is getting it up off the manifold.

Living here in Phoenix, I feel like an expert on vapor lock. YES, the Edelbrock/Carter style carbs will vapor lock. There is virtually no fuel pump combination you can use short of a very well engineered electric pump set-up that will cure this problem.
The factory used a 1/4 thick gasket/spacer on the wedge motors and when fuel had lead etc... had had higher volatility temperatures these were fine. With modern re-formulated fuels no way is that enough in tough climates such as Phoenix. and I'm sure parts of Florida.
And just for the record, when it's 110 degrees ambient outside Holley's vapor lock too!

You know what I'm wondering if it ain't the fuel. what about capping the in port of the mech pump & plumbing in/running a can of several gallons of race gas or another brand of gas stn gas (I'd prob go with race gas just to make a 100% valid test) & see if that ain't it

I can get 100 octane Sonoco in town so I can run the test with that. I like I have a full tank so I'll run it low and put 5 gallons of the Sonoco in it. I will also continue the search to space the carb up as much as clearance will allow. My other thought is to switch to the 6 pack set up I have just sitting on another engine on an engine stand, will I need a new throttle cable??? 4 speed so no kickdown linkage to worry about.

An electric fuel pump will help deal with it... though anything you can do at the carb end like insulated spacer or heat shield will help.

The electric pump can help at least make sure liquid fuel gets to the carb. I run one on my 2 carbed vehicles... '47 Power Wagon and '78 brand F PU both with original type carbs. Current gas is made for pressurized EFI systems and not carb setups with a pump in hot engine compartment location that tries to "suck" fuel.

The power wagon would not re-start hot after heat soak and in 85+ weather would vapor lock going down the road. The Ford would loose fuel pressure and power in hot weather at load going down the road (tested with fuel pressure gauge on the line going to the carb).

An electric pump fixed both. In both cases, they will boil on hot soak/hot weather. They need some throttle to start in that situation - kinda like a flooded engine - but they do start and run reliably.

The electric pump needs to be aft where it is cool and as low a possible. The Carter pump, and a diaphram style I use on the PW have best capability to handle some suction if the pump is not lower than the tank... but needs to be in a cool place. I actually run a Mr Gasket pump on the Ford... not sure it is the best for this application but works great.

Not really interested in running an electric pump but I think it probably would help. Although not identical in the set up I have 4 or 5 that run carbs and mechanical pumps without issue and I have run them for years down here. I guess I really cant say what it aint til I can say what it is though. I thinking more and more it's the minimal space between the carb and the cast iron intake, many of the others are aluminum intakes, one other Edelbrock but it's on aluminum. I hate this time of an issue when I have something to try and have to wait til morning to get parts and tinker.

You do not need an electric fuel-pump...


I've been in multiple 95+ degree temp scenarios over the years...

The Carter did(and continues to do)just fine...


Dial-in yer delivery/return properly...

Do as much as possible to 'cool the carb'...

Run some REAL fuel, you'll be rockin'...

I had the same problem with the Quik Fuel 1050 on my 69 Bee with an electric pump. I dumped the 10% ethanol junk an switched to 100% gas. Problem went away. I finally dumped the carb and went to EFI. Now I can run the 10% pump junk again.

This

http://www.edelblog.com/tech-tips/resolving-heat-soak/

This

http://www.coolcarb.com

This

Best thing I did was blocking off the heat crossover on the intake with the proper fel pro valley pan

Obviously I don't run my car in the winter , so what do I need a choke for . Starts and idles perfect , don't even run a choke plate on the carb

I'd highly suggest getting it low & siphoning the rest out. it only takes 10% of ethanol (90% is still gas) to cause these issues so it wont take much (ethanol) percentage to invalidate your test and the refinery people I have spoken with say the percentage varies widely (up or down) from the nominal 10% and the oxygenated fuel these days is garbage (didn't have time to ask em why on the last Q). Holler how it turns out

I'll run it out of gas if need be, but I'll run an auxillary source for the test if it is that bad. One thing is I drive these things a lot and running 100 octane all the time would get to even me. I can get 87 octane non-ethanol about 3 miles from the house but not sure it would like a lot of that. I've never nothered with octane booster is it effective? Is there an additive that counteracts the ethanols tendency to boil out there?

Thanks for all the input so far guys and I'll update as I figure stuff out.

I run 2 of the MrGasket 1/2" stacked alum/gasket heat shields to make a 1" 4-hole spacer for my 1405 on an alum holley street dominator intake on my 85 truck.

also blocked the heat croosover.

those 2 things fixed all of my fuel perking/boiling/vapor locking woes here in FL on the 10% e crap.

no mere heat soak on mine, 40 mile ride you can not touch the intake but carb is luke warm to the touch.

same thing for the holley 6210 spredbore I run. used the same spredbore Mr Gasket 1/2" alum/gasket heat shield x2 for 1" 4-hole spacer with heat cross over blocked. carb barly gets luke warm/no issues with crap gas here.

the 440 got the same 1" 4-hole spacer set up with heat blocked..run a 750 edelbrock on it with same results. 40 mile ride and carb is luke warm at most.

I even liked the edelbrock q-jet I had on the 440 with the stock q-jet 5/8 fiber open gasket. carb stayed cool.

I tried a few different types of spacers for heat reasons and the Mr Gasket stacked alum plate/gasket worked bestest for me.

get the heat blocked and run the mr gasket stacked plate heat shield.

This one Scratch?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-3710

I was thinking of something like this but I cant take the inch due to hood clearance maybe one will do the trick. I cant believe I don't have one in the shop but good money says I cant find one locally today.

yes, I used 2 to make a 1" spacer.

the 1/2" stacked worked fine first go round but 1" picked up the lowend torque like I wanted.

Sunoco 100 octane unleaded is loaded with ethanol, loaded, more than 10%, that's how they get the octane so high.

If you do this then get 110 leaded, it's the only fuel worth using for test like this.

Sunoco 260GTX 98 octane is the only unleaded gas with no ethanol. Well now they have optima that is 95 octane with no ethanol.

When I was in Fla I saw non ethanol gas in many places for boats.

I would suggest to block off the heat risers and maybe consider a different intake manifold with no heat riser passages.

I get the non ethanol gas here at the local bulk fuel supplier.

hit and miss on the other mom/pop gas stations with it. I have ran into water/crap and have had to drain my fuel system for what they "SAID" was non ethanol gas 2x from there. no more $ spent there for sure.

Exact problem I am having. Over the winter, I plan on fixing it using this.. I have a rubber Superformance gasket, along with a hi-tech spacer I got from a vender at Carlisle. Exact problem on my 650 Thunder Series carb.

I run a heat riser cross-over, stock choke, and pump gas so my problems with percolation seemed unending. All summer long, every time I parked for more than ten minutes. Very irritating indeed!

I tried several things but hood clearance, appearance (sorry but I hate those stacked gaskets), and of course longevity. We drive this car year round in Oregon so maintenance wise it gets treated like any other passenger car.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8725/overview/

Paint it black!

As said above the best way to avoid this issue is:

a) Mix in some 110 with the pump swill.
b) Block off the heat-riser cross over.
c) Fuel injection

I just mix in a few gallons of 110 during the extremely hot months and that gets us by.

Similarities here..

Moved the car in my pic from Oregon to Florida appx 2 years ago.. Original 440, bored 040, original intake, carb, exhaust manifolds. Stock radiator with a 3 core taken from a parts car. Pump supreme fuel run... No problems.....

We have encountered the issue on several customers cars.
Step 1. install a phenolic spacer. The Aluminum ones will transfer more heat.

Step 2. if #1 doesn't work, ,make sure the fuel line is not routed low, close to the heat crossover.

Step3. Only have had to do this once, fabricate an 1/8" aluminum plate to block the radiant heat off the crossover passage from the fuel line.

Step 4. Set up a return line with a restricted orifice to get the fuel moving instead of sitting in the line above the crossover cooking.. haven't had to resort to this yet

block off the crossover.

Step 1 and 2 have cured most of the problem vehicles.

Yes the fuel is going to percolate in a Carter style carb.

Is your crossover still open, block it, switch to an Alum intake AND the Holley carb , though an 850 is a little big unless you are running an 800 ebrock , I hope you don't have the POS performer 750 , if so drop in it the bottom of the everglades.


My friend has a 383 I did for him last year , runs what I outline above with the cheapest , crappiest, gas he can afford and no issues.

I don't have heat related fuel problems with my 72 Imperial in Texas. The car was 100% stock with the exception of an AVS. I put a 1/4" rubber spacer under the carb. The heat riser and crossover are still in place.

If I let the car sit for several days in the summer I will need to run the electric pump for a moment to refill the bowls. Other than that, it fires right up.


I use one of these cheesy little pumps:



My car is from California and was not equipped with a mechanical pump due to smog pump interference.

I had Thunder AVS heat problems when I lived in Vegas. A ~3/8" phenolic spacer solved it completely.

for the most part except my 600 eddie carb sits right on my victorjr 340 intake with only a gasket and has never boiled the fuel, even E10 I buy out of town.

But the reason I think is the intake nor the eddie heads have heat risers so my carb has run fine in super hi heat in Vegas and Reno at over 110° with no problems. Even re starts are normal and no struggle in hi heat.

Block those heat risers in the heads and use a aluminum intake with no heat risers=electric or manual choke. Man those eddie heads are nice because of that feature alone IMO.

Yes, I had the same problem with this carb on a 340 in my Challenger. It only was a problem in Atlanta during the summer months. Get a phelonic carb spacer. It will block a lot of the heat and help.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8711?seid=srese1&gclid=CLmHzcG41McCFVM7gQodDWAEiQ

Well, the behavior seemed to deteriate greatly today, I am gonna pull a fuel sample tomorrow just to make sure I haven't added to the issue with contaminated fuel. I was gonna buy one of the coolcarb heatsheilds at E-town but of course there was no vendor there. I need to just order one and be patient, not my strong suite. The carb is a 750, not sure if it is the performer series or not I haven't paid it much attention since I hate Edelbrocks and think they are junk from the word go. I built the 850 for it today but as many of you know the linkage and fuel line wont clear a stock intake so that was a bust. I really wonted to stay with the stock appearance so a 4 barrell aluminum intake isn't in my thinking. HOWEVER, I think I am gonna build the carbs for my 6 pack tomorrow and start thinking about installing it. A friend has a 6 pack on his 68 RT with a regular air grabber type air cleaner and it fits under the bulge hood fine, I need to call him and confirm it before I go to far but I have seen the car and think I knwo the cleaner used. I need to get the Edelbrock off of it if for no other reason my piece of mind, anything that goes one with the running will be blamed on it.

Thanks for all the input guys.

That's a shame...

'Cuz there's a whole lot of 'em in these parts...

And they're doing just fine...


Don't see the value in Carter???

Come here in Sept, and watch 'em run in Pure Stock...


They are formidable...

I know some people have success with them but other than the one on the CJ every one I have ever had anything to do with has not performed well, this one was OK but the heat has undoubtly taken it's toll. Even before it started acting up so poorly the car seemed like it would run out of carb when hammering it. I'm glad you have had luck with them but I haven't.

Too bad yer so far away...

Because we got some Carter wizards up here...


And at least two of 'em will be at Stanton in Sept...


I, myself, am not a big Holley fan...

A myriad of complexities, and potential problems...

Seen it too many times...


I hope you get it sorted out...

I'm the other way, I seem to always be able to make a Holley work and cant make heads or tails of an Edelbrock, of course I haven't bothered to learn since I can make a Holley work and frankly have so many of them sitting around. Holleys are very tuneable so I like that about them, important to make sure you have a good carb to start with, make sure the shafts aren't leaking and all the ports are clear. I really wish a Holley would just bolt up to the intake so I didn't have to change it over, if I'm changing intakes it's gonna be for the one I already have.

If you would of mentioned Edelbrock 750 from post #1 , four things would of happened

1) 25% of us would of said , don't even waste your time on fuel percolating , you have bigger issues , like finding the nearest garbage can

2) 25% of us would of said , don't even waste your time on fuel percolating , you have to change the jetting , metering rods , springs , check your float levels , drill this that and everything will be ok . Then back to the original topic

3) 25% of us would of said , put a Holley on it

4) 25% of us would of said , what's been discussed so far

I like the Edelbrock 600 / 800 Performer Carbs
Also the Thunder Series AVS Carbs

And the Factory Carter AVS Carbs 750 cfm found on the 440 HP Motors

If it's a 750 then it's a Performer .. they didn't make a thunder series 750 ... JUNK ...

It's not hard to get an alum intake to look stock , think CH4B , otherwise if you must have a boat anchor for an intake find a 70 440 intake , it's made to clear a holley.

Well, I guess that confirms it, my hatred for Edelbrocks is founded. I will waste no more time on it and proceed with a Holley one way or 3.

Can anyone confirm that the 6 pack with a basic factory air cleaner will fit under the bulge hood? It's a repop set up.

Thanks folks

I wonder if Holley still makes the 3310 780cfm. Those seemed to work on everything.

The 6pack fits under both the flat hood and bulge hood in 70 , it fit under the stock hood on a 68/69 Road runner, I'm pretty sure I've seen them under the Ramcharger hood on a 69 Bee/R/T which is a flat hood so I'm 99% it will fit under the bulge of a 68/69.

BUT that said you need to confirm it before closing the hood.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar-Performance/312/P4529057AC/10002/-1

I just put a Six Pack on my Bee and used the above air cleaner with a K&N filter. Easily fits under a '70 power bulge hood. The air cleaner studs supplied with the kit sucked so I got better ones from Mega Parts:

http://www.megapartsusa.com/products.asp?cat=173

Is the throttle cable the same just a different mounting bracket on the intake?

I reused my 4 Barrel cable and it seems to work fine. Yeah its a different bracket needed. I bought an installation kit from an eBay seller that had everything needed to install except the idle solenoid and bolts( cabs,manifold ,and solenoid). The kit came with a new throttle cable but haven't installed it yet.
I had already installed new 3/8 and 1/4 steel fuel lines / gas tank sender, and stock vapor separator so only used the upper lines that came with the kit.
The best part of the swap is giving away the Edelbrock 1405 and 1411 that had been nothing but a huge pain in the a$$. Good riddance!

How quickly this got on a "crap gasoline" bashing thread. Facts are often left by the wayside.

Here are some facts:

In metric units from Engineering toolbox I got thermal conductivity of the two metals in question. Holley carbs until recently were always zinc die castings, the Aluminum Four Barrel aka AFB plus other Carter lookalikes including Edelbrock are aluminum.

Zinc - 116
Aluminum - 205

That's right. I don't care what gas you use, aluminum conducts heat almost twice as well as zinc. Meaning the fuel in the aluminum carb will get hotter.

WHY do you suppose Carter made the Thermoquad body out of plastic? I am certain that one of the reasons was cutting down heat to the fuel. That was one of the advertising claims, they made a big deal about it. They had probably really been hit with this as the EPA started cutting down on emissions from evaporating gasoline.

I could get started on the amount of ignorance showing in this thread, but why bother? Anyone else know what Reid Vapor Pressure is?

Much easier to bash.

R.

Crying shame that you gave up on the AFB and went with the Holley.

I have owned AFB carbs since the late 80s and greatly prefer them over the Holley stuff. They tune nicely and have great street manners.
Yes, I have been able to get a wee tiny bit more power out of a Holley but it comes at great cost to mpg and street manners. I've even run the dreaded 750 AFB with good results.

It's your car so do what you want. In my opinion it's kinda silly to go through all that trouble when a 3/8" spacer will likely cure your ills.

Don't hold back , tell us what you really think ...

I never had a fuel boiling issue with a Carter before ethanol, but good point on alum transferring more heat, the carb on that 383 i mention above is a very OLD 650 DP, Zinc .

The Ebrock performer 750 is still a piece of junk , doesn't matter what fuel is run thru it .

Problem with that is the hood clearance with a stock air cleaner which he is choosing to use.

But I guess the question is what air cleaner is he using ? If it's the stock unslienced then a 13" Ford Motorsport open element base will work with it and drop the air cleaner top down.

But then there is the issue of the carb he is using

\

Don't bother , it's a 70 up E body , 71 up B body cable , won't work.

I contacted the seller before I purchased kit and he swapped cables for me before he shipped it out.
It looked the same as my OEM cable so left it as is.

Lucky you , The MP install kit that was sold for ever only came with the E body cable , that cable he swapped in , if not a 4bbl cable , is $$$

The seller was rob1426 and it probably is the 4 barrel cable. Out of all the kits for sale on eBay he's the only one that includes the choke and hardware. The fuel line blocks do not have the bottom notched but I can live with that.

Statement like that is just making you look bad...


My 'piece of junk' has been on top a' 440 for a coupla' decades...

Good idle quality...

Good transition...

Pulls good...


I can get in there and do dam near anything, without even taking it off the intake...

(Orifice/bleed passages;power-valves;bowl leakage-no worries...)


And still looks like the day I bolted it on...

Wouldn't trade it for the world...



You ought to just dive in...

If a knuckle-head like me can figure out an AFB, I'll bet you could, too...

... Knucklehead would be correct.

I've already wasted more time than I needed to trying to tune one, I sold my last ebrock carb at Carlisle and don't have anymore of them to deal with.

I have a Carter Competition 750 from the 80's/90's and a few stock AVS's if I really feel the need to be tortured.

The UNTOLD THOUSANDS of us who successfully run E-brocks collectively say, 'Rock-On'...


And come here to Stanton in a coupla' weeks...

Some of these dudes are WAY beyond 'knuckle-head'...


And dammed if they don't run Carter...

With surgical precision...

I didn't think that there was less than 3/8" hood clearance on any of these cars.
I understand a shaker car might have an issue but not a bulge hood.

Why didn't Mr Scientist get into the vaporization of fuels?

I'd like to see him cover all the different blends used throughout the US.

--- Well I installed a gasket today from Napa that without measuring I would argue is 3/8 or close to it and although there was an improvement it by no means came anywhere close to curing the issues. The improvement infact could have been purely the fact that it wasn't as hot today as it has been lately. Another reason it may have been so bad yesterday is the passenger rear bolt wasn't much more than snug so it may have been getting a vacuum leak at that corner, of course that was correct with the changing to the thicker gasket.

On another note I found I have a 3310 in my stash so I will fit it to an extra cast iron intake I have tomorrow and if it clears I will check the shafts for a rebuild canidate and it they are tight I'll rebuild it.

For the record I probably have about another 3/8s of safe clearance left under the bulge I can use.

Thanks for all the input folks this has been helpful and hopefully will help others.

Yep running the factory unsilenced air cleaner, good to know about the Ford piece although I assume it will immediately slow the car down. How much does it drop it?

Do they run Carters or do they run Edelbrocks ???

Because the Factory Carters and the Carter Competition 750 AFB IS NOT an Edelbrock Performer Series Carb

I love pulling this archive thread from over 13 years ago up every year

Look at the dyno numbers and read what he has to say about the Edelbrock 750 Performer Series versus say the Carter Competition
750 AFB

Proof is in the pudding per say as what was said in that thread
Dyno numbers don't lie and those carbs where both new , out of the box

1,000 Topics on the same subject - I will just leave it alone

Why anyone would waste there time and money on a 750 Performer Series when the 800 Performer Series is 100 times the carb is beyond me
It is what it is

Link Might Help

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/bb/25.html

the only carb that didnt actually run well was the Ebrock carb. it just didnt do anything well. poor idle, too lean everywhere, didnt take a load well, etc.
when i had a chance, i pulled it apart to see if there was any dirt or debris inside, and it was nice and clean. i also verified the calibration.
it was calibrated to the specs in the catalog.


thunderhead...regardless of the power output, the Ebrock carb had pretty poor overall manners. as for comparing stock vs stock, 7 of the carbs tested were "stock" with the as delivered calibration, and they all worked fine, except the Ebrock. since the Ebrock and the Carter are both made by Weber, and are basically the same carb, the fact that the Carter ran good and the Ebrock didnt just shows that Ebrock has the calibration set up for much milder combos.

one final note....
i dont have anything against Ebrock carbs. it seems some here have a hard time grasping that it didnt run well. trust me...it didnt run well. its that simple. its not hard to tell if its good or bad when youve already made nearly 70 pulls on the motor before installing this carb.
yes, the problems it had could be tuned out of it. thats obvious since the Carter 750, which is the same thing ran just fine.
it ran how it ran...which wasnt good.
this is one of those "dont shoot the messenger" situations.

A lot of faith being placed on the testing of ONE carb...


Leaves room for a WHOLE LOT of questions...

As someone who has tuned both Holley and Carter carburetors I prefer the precise nature of the AFB design for all around operation.

However if one is not familiar with the range of options in adjusting one you will get in trouble very quickly.

Just like fuel injection. If you know its ins and outs you can make wonderful things happen. Go at it like a caveman with a club and you would conclude its all junk.

The aluminum AFB body will cause fuel to evaporate at a higher rate and this is compounded by the garbage formulations they use today.

I'd rather deal with that than the Holley proclivity for excessively rich fuel mixtures to cover transitions and gasketing issues I have experienced..

My testing/opinion hasn't been with one carb, it started when they first came out 25-30 years ago. I decided I would try one on a build after 4 or 5 different new carbs, I put a holley on it and to my knowledge it ran fine that way for 15 or so years. I pretty much stayed away from them since then until I bought the CJ, it had one mounted on it, I decided to leave it until it gave me a reason to replace it. It's on a mild AMC 360 build with an aluminum intake and has frankly given me no reason to do anything with it, of course not used nearly the same as it would be in a performance car. I think it's a 600 CFM. When I bought this car it was on it and I was hopeful but after spending a month trying to work this out I gotta say I am over them. Trust me I don't like to waste money and there are a million (literally, I counted them) other thinkgs I had rather do on my cars than screw with this carb situation, for instance I could have built the motor and half the car the 6 pack was/is designated for. I'm gonna run the rest of the fuel out and try a few different fuel combos to see if it works. First will be the 87 octane marine gas 2 miles down the road with 104 octane booster and then a mix of the 114 leaded with the 87 1:1 and see what works and is most cost effective. The 114 and 112 is 25 miles from the house and the 112 is $8.75 and the 114 is $5.75 for some reason, either way between expense and distance running either straight is really not practical. You gotta remember, I drive my cars, not drive them on good day or drive them to church on Sunday, I work out everyday and decide which one I'm gonna drive. I might run down to my brother's shop for soemthing or to work a little, I might meet my wife for lunch, I might go to the parts house, Walmart or my kids ball games, these are my daily drivers. $8 a gallon gas so that I can say an Edelbrock is fine don't work for me! AND I'm not gonna have a car I cant drive.

I;ve had people tell me it was the Edelbrocks the new ones are fine, I have had others tell me the old ones were great and the new one stink, fact is I've never had to defend a Holley or even a T-quad or J-jet for that matter, they just seem to work. Although I have learned that if the later 2 have an issue pretty much get rid of it and get another one, a Holley I can generally work out.

My question was "Are Edelbrock carbs known to boil fuel in the bowl?" and the answer is yes, never mind the reason they are more prone to it. Whether they are pure junk or not wasn't really the question and I will leave that to everyone's person opinion.

Have a great day!

Let me share today's events. Syphoned the fuel to get as much out as possible then parked it nose down idling til it completely run out, went and got 10 gallons 87 marine gas and 104 octane booster. Restarted it and went for a drive, it seemed to run OK but didn't really like to idle all the time and I started to begin my test. First step, hole shot and run it through the gears on the floor, it ran as well as it probably ever has, however when I gradually let off to begin to bring it down it floored the car and stalled. No restart even on the floor, I pulled the air cleaner and you could see the raw gas just puddled up in the top ledges of the carb and even in the lip of the air cleaner base. After about 10-15 of sitting in the middle of the road (one of the great things about living out in the country, back road that no one travel are available) I got it started by foot on the floor and spinning it til it caught up like flooded. I went straight home and pulled into the shop for cool down, the filter was full of fuel but you could here the boiling same as when it was stalled. The test was suppose to be stand on it to make sure it was working correctly, let it hot soak and redo the test, on the restart is where I have experienced the worst lack of fuel and vapor locking. I didn't even get that far.

After it cooled, I figured out how to mount the 850, used a few aluminum plates and gaskets I had to get the linkage clear and contoured (read bent) the dual line to get it about an inch above the choke stove pocket and runner. Fired it up adjusted it out and went for a drive, very nice drivibilty and good power, no signs of vapor locking or boiling. When I came back I removed the air cleaner and watched for probably 30 minutes for boiling or any leakage into the carb, there was none. Granted it was later in the day so maybe not as hot as it will get but the Edelbrock hasn't past that test in forever. The real test will be when I return to ethanol fuel in the Florida heat.

Just thought I would update the thread.

Last update unless soemthing changes, I drove it quite a bit today and even put ethanol back in it, about 10 gallons on top of what was probably 5 gallons on the marine gas with octane boost. It was hot out and I experienced not issues of boiling, vapor lock or hard start after hot soaks. Whether an Edelbrock is a great carb or not the Holley cured my issue.

Thanks for all the input along the way.

Have a great evening.

I live in Florida and have an original equipped 69-383 car. Edelbrock carb boiled the fuel out and made it impossible to restart. Ditto with a restored factory Carter. Added the electric fuel pump and it helped some. Blocked off the crossover on the cast iron intake and that helped a little more. Experimented with different carb gaskets and factory style isolators with mixed results. Tried a wood spacer and the problem stopped. Reinstalled the factory Carter, still good. Disconnected the electric fuel pump, still good. Harbor Freights Temp gun showed some scary numbers while I was experimenting. I couldn't believe the differences each change made with the gun. I run real non-ethanol fuel only. There must be some other changes in current fuel other than just the ethanol. Somewhere in all of the testing, I removed the intake and resealed it. My O2 readings changed, so I suspect I also had an intake vacuum leak, causing a lean at idle problem and making the engine temp higher. I went through 4 carbs before I found the issues. Get a Temp Gun and an O2 Reader, the modern fuel makes the older vehicles finicky and these tools helped me when I finally accepted that technology was better than my past experience.

How big/thick of a wood spacer did you use. Currently my problem is solved, I switch to a Holley.

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/install-items/

Scroll down to Carb Spacers - Wood Fiber Laminate and click on part #s



They also make the Simple Heat Insulator Gaskets #9265 #9266
I use Them on the Factory Carter AVS Carbs

http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/edelbrock/part-type/carburetor-base-plate-gaskets