This sounds like one of two problems. I have had a few batteries over the years do this. What happens is the battery keeps taking in the amps but the battery voltage level wont go up as high as it should. In other words the regulator will keep charging the battery (putting amps into it) until the battery reaches the set voltage level to cut the regulator back (field circuit) back to drop the charging amps into the battery. The set voltage of the reg may be 14.2 and if the battery will not rise to that it will take in amps all day long as the reg will keep the field circuit energized and keep it charging the battery since the reg thinks the battery is still low. The only way to verify this is to put a good battery in it and see if it fixes it.

The other deal is that its just charging full output all the time as the older Mopar alternators dont put out enough at idle to push the amp gauge all the way past center but if its got full field all the time (full charging) it will make the amp gauge show more amps the more you step on the gas. It could be a wire shorted that keeps it at full charge and which wire depends on if you have the single or dual field alt.
Your best bet is put an ampmeter and a voltmeter on the car and test to see what the readings are. The best test ampmeter is the kind where you unhook the output wire on the alt and hook the ampmeter in series and then hook a voltmeter across the battery. Then start the car with everything off and see what the meters read as you bring the rpm up. If the amps keep going up and the volts do not then its either a low battery or a bad battery. If the amps and volts keep climbing then its over charging for some reason which would need to be diagnosed. Ron

Everything off

Thanks Ron!

I have a few things to try this week and will report back. I appreciate everyone helping out.

If Quartz clock, can get small spark even with everything else off, goes too for radio with memory system. Trunk or glove box light not turning off.

You can meter between disconnected battery cable and battery post to find the level of current causing any spark. Be aware that any current with everything turned off is not normal except for such components as listed above and will eventually discharge a battery given sufficient time. Even a Quartz clock or radio or alarm system will do so too.

What Ron & Sxrxrnr said

Good call. My clock is still connected in the rallye dash but it doesn't run at the moment. I also have a CD player in the glove box..... last night was kindergarten orientation and tonight I have contractors quoting work so i'll get cracking this weekend.

My 73 started out doing the same thing I'm still working on it,Found out the wiring burned inside a tape area y=that looked perfectly fine until lifted up and examined Wires from alternator to wiring loom were fried thanks to a mouse chewing into it

Self winding automobile can develop a condition where the motor that does the winding can jam for one reason or other. This can cause what appears as a low level short that can suck up a battery in short order. If your car's clock is not working, I would put it on the suspicious list until proven otherwise. Using a meter as described above is a good diagnostic tool for this condition. Removing the fuse eliminates it.

Not suggesting that is the cause of your overcharging issue, just something to be aware of

Ok, I believe it may be solved. Battery. I swapped the truck battery into the car and it starts up and idles fine. Sits on the lower part of the center line and never climbs higher than the center of that line.....

I put the car battery into the truck and the VOLT gauge shows fine (as did the meter reading volts across battery in car). I am taking the battery back for warranty, but has me thinking I should put some sort of AMP gauge back in the truck since it isn't showing me that condition in any other way.

my 5 year old and I took the car out for a good 10 to 15 mile or so round trip including Autozone for a battery/alt test. The rebuilt ALT tested "good" and the battery reported back at "Good, needs charging" which means it is requiring a charge (even when it is already charged)

I still feel like I have a ballast problem as at first the car cranks and starts as should, but other times it only fires when you let off the key..... I've changed out ballast so need to troubleshoot that possibly.... unless it's in my head.

Sounds more as a poor quality wiring or connector problem, remotely an ignition switch issue on starting flakiness. Likely not a ballast problem.

Thanks. The search will continue. IGN switch sucks with having to pull column apart but have to do what I have to if I can't find any connection issues.

Likely not ignition switch. Meter all wiring at termination points for 12 volts. Would be well to have an assistant to turn ignition switch while metering under hood. First failure point is often connector from ignition switch to dash harness, followed closely by bulkhead.

Simple to check ignition switch. Disconnect ignition switch connector and meter ignition switch side wiring while working the switch. Red wire from dash harness must jumpered to female red wire port on switch side to supply 12 volts to it.

Be very careful not to allow any grounding of this wire however,,,don't want you to burn down your car. A fused jumper is not a bad idea.

I would only check ignition switch only after all other metered tests have passed successfully.

got another ECU you could borrow? do check the reluctor gap and that the plate ain't loose & general visual there & if no go on all that then on to the wiring

Thanks Robert, I plan on swapping out ECU's to confirm

defintaely not a ballast problem.

The balast only supplies voltage to the coil when in run.

If "it only fires when you let off the key" you are getting voltage in run, what you are not getting is a signal to the coil to fire. Pickup, ecu, comes to mind.

I can't remember what the reluctor gap setting should be on a mopar electronic small block distributor.... anyone have that spec?

.008"

Word.