Not that lever I'm talking about the one inside the transmission that engages the front band. It is on the left in the second pic you posted when you pulled the pump out.

Ok I'll check that lever.


If I use dexron can I use dexron VI?

My lever has 3.8 stamped on it.

What you have pictured is the throttle pressure lever and since you are going to a RMVB you will not be using it when you put the transmission back in. The kickdown lever is the one that pushes on the strut that closes the 2nd gear band and they are numbered.

Finally got time to reassemble my tranny. Ive got 15 springs in my front clutch, and 4 frictions and steels. Tranzact specifies that a front clutch clearance of .060 and .050 is required for their valve body. I had almost .080. So I switched my front drum snap ring with the rear drum snap ring, but I still have about .072 clearance, too much. The snap ring is .076", so i guess my only solution is to order a set of thicker snap rings.

After assembling the rear drum, even with the thinner snap ring (.062"), I barely have .010 clearance. I dont know how to solve that issue, as Im supposed to have .030 to .040

If Im overlooking something please let me know. I havent seen any snap rings or pressure plates that are thinner than stock to help me achieve the proper rear drum clearance. Maybe I could just have my pressure plate machined?

The only thing I can think of that has affected my clearance is that I soaked the clutches and steels in tranny fluid for a few days before I installed and checked clearance. Could my frictions have swelled and given me a inaccurate clearance reading?

Suppose to check the clearance with the disc dry....

Ok. Well I talked to a transmission guy and he says that wet friction disks would not be throwing my reading off that much. I'll take it apart and measure my old disks/steels and compare to new stuff and see where the difference is

You're good to go.

Friction discs are generally about the same thickness but thicker steel plates are available...you might have those and they'll tighten up the clutch pack. Standard thickness is .070" and the thicker ones are .090".

OK I found the problem. My front drum steels are .070 and the steels in my rear drum are .090.

I guess this would be a simple swap, except my kit only came with 3 of the .090 and my front drum uses 5 steels.

Is it a bad idea to mix and match the different thickness steel plates until I get the desired clearances?

If I do need to order more of the .090's, should I upgrade to the kolene? Every part I got in my rebuild kit was high performance except my steels. tranny going behind 600hp 440 with 150 shot

Mix the thick/thin steels any way you desire...personally, I use the thicker steels at the outer end of the clutch pack, toward the snap ring.

I called TSR and ordered some thick steels, and also some thicker snap rings just in case. He talked me into a bolt in sprag as well..

good to know I can mix the steels. Ill try what you do with the thicker steels towards the outside edges

Is there a good upgrade for the stock filler tube grommet?

Hey Guys I need help, I cannot tell if my forward clutch drum is fully seated! There is a slight gap between the ears of the clutch drum and the sun shell it sits in, is this normal? Is it fully seated?

Looks OK...if in doubt, look at the witness marks where the drum tangs previously wore on the driving shell slots.

Will my transmission be using the accumulator any more since I'm installing a manual valve body? If not, do I even need to re install it?

Depends on the valve body, if the large hole in the separator plate over the accumulator is there the accumulator will still be in use....if there is no hole in the plate you can omit the accumulator piston.

OK, the large open hole in the middle isnt covered, but some of the holes on its perimeter are covered. Not sure if the hole(s) you're talking about. Ive included pictures of both.


Here is my original valve body




Here is the new reverse manual valve body.