i have a 71 dart with a 68 440 engine it.i also the factory electronic ignition set up in at as well.i'm gettin no power the distributor,when turn the key on the resistor and coil get burinin hot quick.i tried to start one time blew all the electrical components.i have replace the coil,ecm box,ballast resistor,voltage regulator and distributor. its still the same problem as before no power. those two things gettin real hot still.is it possibily i could a bad voltage regulator connector harness,ecm box harness or engine harness?

Start with the link below. There's a section for Mopar Electronic Ignition Conversion Instructions. I would say that one of the wires on your resistor has a solid ground on it. When you turn the ignition switch on, you've got a dead short across the resistor.

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=24

4 pin ECU/2 terminal "single" ballast system OR OE (has a functioning 5th pin) 5 pin ECU/4 terminal "dual" ballast? or 5 pin aftermarket (non functioning 5th pin) which the last one can use a 2 or 4 terminal ballast. What coil and what ballast? Confirm that you are wired correct/reluctor gapped at .008". recent prob or happened since it was converted to electronic (as in wont start since converted)?. coil and ECU both need to be fed in ign2 (crank) and in ign1 (run). that'll get us started

i have a 2 terminal ballast resistor,four prong ecm box and a five terminal ecm harness.when i first converted it over,it worked great,no problems. i heard its normal for the resistor to get burnin hot?form what i read on other posts.people havin similar problems. what about the coil gettin real hot? i replace the voltage regulator connector today,i saw it was worn out the terminals looked bad on it,it didn't fix the problem.the voltage regulator it self gets kinda hot.

The reg ain't involved in this other than to properly charge the batt & to not under or over charge it. (1) pull the yellow wire off of the starter relay to disable the starter. seperate the zigzag dist pickup 2 wire connector. pull the coil wire (dist end) out of the coil. helper in dr seat. You hold the coil secondary wire end 1/4" from ground as you drag the male tip of the body half of the zigzag connector across the metal intake to make/break contact to ground & see if the coil wire produces sparks with the key "on" and with him holding the key to "start" (2) plug the zigzag connector back in. remove all wires from the coil neg primary terminal on the coil (might just be the one). same as before/yellow wire still off, hold the coil secondary wire 1/4" from ground. with a jumper wire with alligator clips connect one end to the coil primary neg terminal (not to the wire you removed from it) and make/break contact with the other alligator clip to the intake ground like Morse Code & see if the coil secondary wire makes sparks with the key in "on" and in "start". those items do get hot but when we get it going we'll check the charging voltage (OE electromechanical "box" reg on there now?). might just be that the problematic orange box died

well,says the ecm box is good.i replace the orange box with a autozone ecm box.i check the the autozone duralast ecm it was good.im just not gettin no spark inside the distributor.there is spark goin into the coil.

i have a electric voltage regulator on,i have the problem figure out.i have a dead short like shorthorse said above,it blew the distributor and resistor up,the engine wiring harness is completely shot and bad,after i replace those things,it should be fixed.