If you have gas coming out of the boosters then you probably have a problem with the needle and seat.

It isn't uncommon for these carbs to develop issues if you let them sit for very long with ethanol pump gas in them. I had an old truck that I didn't drive very much with an Edelbrock carb on it and I constantly had to pull the top off the carb and clean it out. The pump gas swill just eats at those carbs if it sits in there for very long.

I pulled the tops of both carbs off and it was clean inside. No white slime or residue from the ethanol. Pulled out the needle and seats and they were clean too. I cleaned everything up with carb cleaner, rechecked the float adjustment and put everything back together and it still wont idle by itself and it is still leaking gas out of the boosters. If I give it just a little gas it will stay running, but it still has very strong fumes from the exhaust that will burn your eyes even after a few seconds of it running. I'm ordering the fuel pressure regulator tonight and I'm really hoping that this will be the end to the problem. I appreciate all the help so far.

Did you verify the floats were not leaky? If so, how?

They were floating on the gas that was in the bowls and when I pulled them out they were not full of gas.

Did you shake them and listen for slosh? Doesn't take much to keep the needles from seating. Had it happen twice to me over the years. First time I resoldered the seam, couple years later I just replaced them.

I didn't shake them, but I did take them off to clean the needle and seats and I couldn't hear anything moving around and they were very light so I'm almost positive that they are still good.

I got the fuel pressure regulator installed and it does seem to run a little better and nowhere near as rich, however the problem is still there and I cant get the car to idle. I have the regulator set to 6 psi. I pulled out all the idle mixture screws and sprayed some carb cleaner in there and into the air bleeds as well. Does this sound like an idle circuit problem? I still cant get the car to idle by itself to see if everything else is okay.

The only way that I can get the car to idle is if I turn the idle up to around 1500-2000 rpm; I'm not sure as My car doesn't have a tach.
The vacuum was at 5 in/hg and when I looked at the metering rods, they appeared to be bouncing up and down a little bit. Im not sure if the vacuum is that low or the metering rods are bouncing slightly because of the idle being so high.

I run a pair of 750's atop a blower. As others have suggested, Edelbrocks are sensitive to pressure and float height.

I'd get your pressure down to 5-5.5 psi. (Up to 7 with a Holley)

If it's still flooding internally and the float isn't leaking, try lowering the offending float(s) slightly.

The stock step-up springs (orange) are rated at 5 in/hg. So if your engine is hovering at 5" vacuum at idle, the rods could be lifting (richening). Get your vacuum up or switch to stiffer springs. I'm leaning towards pressure/float height.

I took the whole carburetor apart again, cleaned everything again, lowered the floats a little more, and dropped the fuel pressure down to 5 psi and the car still will not idle. It is still running rich too. It only wants to idle at roughly 1500 rpm. I can sill see gas coming out of the boosters, but I believe the only reason now is because of how high the idle is. I am pretty much at a loss of what to do at this point.

You raised the float? That would make the problem worse. If you lower the float it will shut the fuel off at lower level in the bowl.

My bad, just a typing mistake. I lowered the float.

Does anybody here have a hemi, preferably 528, and know an average vacuum reading at idle?

Is there a set adjustment as to how far the primary throttle blades should be open at idle?