Background: Yesterday I removed the plug at the bottom of the valve to apply Teflon tape to the threads that wouldn't stop leaking. When I removed the plug slowly expecting a spring or whatever to come out with it, nothing did. So I applied the tape an replaced it in the block. I then noticed a nice machined washer/spacer on the floor(1st pic) Doh! . So I figured it was stuck in there by the fluid & fell out when my back was turned.

Question: Was there possibly something else or a spring fell out & "boing" disappeared? I looked hard for anything else & didn't see anything.

The cross cut view of the metering block that I looked at wasn't as revealing as I had hoped. Anybody got an "explosive view" to help clarify.

Well:...While digging for the washer/spacer pic that fell out, I stumbled onto a literal "explosive view" in my files. So my valve seams to have a steel washer/spacer in place of the brass appearing in my second pic.

So sense the long tube & rubber seal that it goes through stayed in the block when I remove the plug, the steel spacer I found on the floor appears to be the only thing that fell out. No!

Did I stumble onto the answer to my own question, & am good to go?

That's my exploded view, when I rebuilt the valve. Is the valve an orig or repro? That is the washer in the pic. While you're at it, pull the rest of the assembly out, make sure everything is there, check that rubber seal inboard of the washer and the metal "hat" it seals against. Opportunity to clean it up.

It's a repro. All new brake lines/blocks probably more than 5 yrs ago, & didn't get fluid into it till maybe last yr (slow restoration).

The Teflon tape stopped the weeping around the nut, but it's still leaking out the bottom nipple. A gravity weep, no peddle pressure.

Thanks for the info, I'll gut it for a look.

Believe I've found the leak. Hat looks fine, but that steel shim in mine is an extra part that both your valves don't show. Not a big deal though. Would change the valve opening pressure with an existing spring or shim for a shorter spring I guess.

Who makes/sales a good rebuild kit if I don't find one.

Well with a what little searching I've done, there doesn't seem to be a rebuild kit for these. Even called with the F--- "angle of approach" as the Autopsy site showed.

Figure someone here would know of this & mentioned on previous threads if it were so, but I have to ask: Did C body's of 70-71 use this metering/hold off valve?

If so, there may be a used one about 12 miles away. If not, (meanwhile back at the ranch) I'm waiting on a return call for a used B. Lol all this for just a rubber cup!

A/B/C bodies all had different metering valve PNs, however, it is possible the rubber seal may be similar/same.?. Worth a shot I suppose. Otherwise it's probably a new repro unless you can get one of the repro outfits to divulge their rubber seal source.

What I'm seeing in the different p/n's is because of the different "bracketing" riveted to the same valve "body" for what application (car body, engine bay location, etc.) for example on the Autopsy page it list's this Kelsey Hayes valve being used by FORD on their:
-- 68-9 full size Police & Taxi with a _____p/n C7VY-2B161-B
-- 70-71 Galaxies & Thunderbirds_______p/n DOZ-2B161-B
-- 68-72 F250 & 350_________________p/n C8TZ-2B161-A

With out him showing an actual pic of those Ford valves that is the impression I'm getting, but I could be wrong.

It appears to me, (again could easily be wrong, no hydraulics expert) that this valve could be used on just about any make of car/truck (I assume up to a certain weight though) with Disc/Drum, with a change of valve opening/spring rate. no?

I would guess that even with a different hold off pressure (if needed)it could have a different p/n for it?

...meanwhile back at the ranch,...my 12 mile buddy says he'll take a look at his 70 C-body in the weeds.

Chances are they use the same valve, just a different bracket.

What I was saying, in a nut shell.

Same valve with different brackets seems plausible. Lets us know what you find in the 70C.

Well my 12 mile buddy said the New Yorker did not have this metering valve! My 70 Ply FSM shows one on a C-body Fury. I know that doesn't mean that all C-body's came with one.

So, does anybody have a 70-71 New Yorker with a metering valve. Not asking for you to sale me the valve just checking to see if any NY's have one. How about Imperial's?

Meanwhile I may contact some all Mopar yards.

PS: Just trying to add the bigger C-body's in my search if they have the valve.

Also: If the bigger C's don't use a metering valve does this mean the heavier body's (and at the rear) don't need the sleight delay of the disc.

Well I called Wayne "theramman" last Thursday I think, to see if he had anything. Said he'd have to look & call back Friday. He only had 1 new valve left of the early Fine Lines!! Whew! that was close.

I see a trickle of light at the end of the tunnel. Hopefully, in a few days,...on to the next tunnel.

UPDATE:

Took the guts out of the one Wayne sent me. No use having to change out the whole block & deal with resealing all the now "hard to get to SS fittings" with the motor in place, if this will fix the leaking, ...and it did!

Big THANKS Wayne!

Now,... onto the next tunnel...

...and yes I'm in another tunnel! Small one but none-the-less a tunnel. The front bleeders refuse to seat!

I've worked the seats now about 150 times each hoping for them to kinda lap them until they seal, but so far they both still wet the blue towel twist I put in them to check for seepage at the bottom of their port. These towel twist aint but about an inch long, and in 24hrs only are wet about a 1/2".

Is there an easier or better way than going to lapping compound or worse yet a stripped thread kit that has a brass fitting with a seat in it.