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Welding supply places. I have always used the easy method of frezzing my bottles and just hook up a line to the mother bottle, thats it.

you need to know if your mother bottle has a dip tube or not. If it does not have a dip tube, you need a stand that will hold the bottle upside down. You freeze your bottle for 3-12 hrs. Place you bottle on a scale, hook up a line to the mother bottle. Crack the valve on the mother bottle, crack the line to purge it of air at the small bottle, then open both valves and watch the scale. Do not overfill ....thats about it.

Sounds simple BUT be very careful as liquid nitrous CAN give you a freeze burn. Its best to have someone walk you through it the first couple times. I learned how to do it becasue instead of getting my bottles filled all the time, i would freeze bottles and transfer from 1/2 full to make a full bottle. This gave me a lot of practice..LOL LOL

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ask for NitrousPlus or Supernitrous, that is nitrous oxide with sulfur in it ( thats to prevent people from sniffing it to get high)
Or jsut explain to them that you want to buy nitrous oxide for use in a race car, usually 64 or 54lb mother bottles. Also be sure to find out if the have dip tube or not, If you have a choice get the one with NO diptube. Also get in touch with Monte Smith or someone, you will need the stand that hold the mother bottle, braided lines and bottle nuts and possibly nitrous in line filter to hook up the bottles. Good luck

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ask for NitrousPlus or Supernitrous, that is nitrous oxide with sulfur in it ( thats to prevent people from sniffing it to get high)
Or jsut explain to them that you want to buy nitrous oxide for use in a race car, usually 64 or 54lb mother bottles. Also be sure to find out if the have dip tube or not, If you have a choice get the one with NO diptube. Also get in touch with Monte Smith or someone, you will need the stand that hold the mother bottle, braided lines and bottle nuts and possibly nitrous in line filter to hook up the bottles. Good luck

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I don't think he has to worry about getting 'pure' (medical grade) Nitrous! Its very much a controlled substance. Without a license (you have to be a dentist/ortho etc, or an anetheisiologist.) you ain't gonna get it if you tried.

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ask for NitrousPlus or Supernitrous, that is nitrous oxide with sulfur in it ( thats to prevent people from sniffing it to get high)
Or jsut explain to them that you want to buy nitrous oxide for use in a race car, usually 64 or 54lb mother bottles. Also be sure to find out if the have dip tube or not, If you have a choice get the one with NO diptube. Also get in touch with Monte Smith or someone, you will need the stand that hold the mother bottle, braided lines and bottle nuts and possibly nitrous in line filter to hook up the bottles. Good luck

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I don't think he has to worry about getting 'pure' (medical grade) Nitrous! Its very much a controlled substance. Without a license (you have to be a dentist/ortho etc, or an anetheisiologist.) you ain't gonna get it if you tried.

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Very true, BUT, the last place i bought from gave me TWO 64lb MEDICAL Grade nitrous cyl.....
When i went back for two more they asked me how i got the medical grade, i laughed and told them, you gave them to me....LOL LOL LOL

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How much spray do you think a forged piston stock rod and crank 383 could take?

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THe weak link in that combination is the Rod, It will tansfer ANY detonation right to the block, your other weak link, I would say 175hp (.073 square jetted) should live fine, you might also get away with 225 or more....BUT you need to run good fuel, and be conservative on the timing, Keep the motor out of detonation at all costs. I had a Stock block, stock crank 446, It had a JE piston and an alum rod, Even with stock caps, i sprayed close to 300 and made over 100 passes. The stock caps had massive cap walk, but that was about it. Pushed my then 3600+ car to 9teens 9.20s pretty consistently. Get used to reading plugs and looking for the signs of detonation on them

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How much spray do you think a forged piston stock rod and crank 383 could take?

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THe weak link in that combination is the Rod, It will tansfer ANY detonation right to the block, your other weak link, I would say 175hp (.073 square jetted) should live fine, you might also get away with 225 or more....BUT you need to run good fuel, and be conservative on the timing, Keep the motor out of detonation at all costs. I had a Stock block, stock crank 446, It had a JE piston and an alum rod, Even with stock caps, i sprayed close to 300 and made over 100 passes. The stock caps had massive cap walk, but that was about it. Pushed my then 3600+ car to 9teens 9.20s pretty consistently. Get used to reading plugs and looking for the signs of detonation on them

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My engine is a different combination than yours, dont go by me, go by your sparkplugs...I run 30 intial then i am at 18 with everything on. Now i check my plugs and they sometimes had a little black spec on some, i prob could have pulled more timing and dropped some fuel out of it, BUT i was in that process and the car was picking up....I dont know what head your using, what type of quench etc...whatever you do, start out conservative all you can do by pulling too much timing is slow the car dow, add it back in 1-2 degrees at a time thats all...watch the plugs and the mph on your time slips...Best thing is contact Monte smith on here, he can sell you a flow tool and tech you how to use it properly as well as put you in the right direction as far as jetting , fuel psi, timing etc.

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My engine is a different combination than yours, dont go by me, go by your sparkplugs...I run 30 intial then i am at 18 with everything on. Now i check my plugs and they sometimes had a little black spec on some, i prob could have pulled more timing and dropped some fuel out of it, BUT i was in that process and the car was picking up....I dont know what head your using, what type of quench etc...whatever you do, start out conservative all you can do by pulling too much timing is slow the car dow, add it back in 1-2 degrees at a time thats all...watch the plugs and the mph on your time slips...Best thing is contact Monte smith on here, he can sell you a flow tool and tech you how to use it properly as well as put you in the right direction as far as jetting , fuel psi, timing etc.

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Ok cool, I am not looking to set the world on fire here, just a 100 to 150 shot. What about the guys that buy a kit and throw it on without messing with timing?

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they get lucky LOL LOL

WHat i would do is get the car running well on motor....Whatever timing you get it to run well on, id retard it 6 degrees for 100, 8 for a 150. Then READ THE PLUGS....The best thing for you as a beginner is get in touch with Monte Smith, Get the kit from him, and a flow tool, Thats the best advice i can give you

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My engine is a different combination than yours, dont go by me, go by your sparkplugs...I run 30 intial then i am at 18 with everything on. Now i check my plugs and they sometimes had a little black spec on some, i prob could have pulled more timing and dropped some fuel out of it, BUT i was in that process and the car was picking up....I dont know what head your using, what type of quench etc...whatever you do, start out conservative all you can do by pulling too much timing is slow the car dow, add it back in 1-2 degrees at a time thats all...watch the plugs and the mph on your time slips...Best thing is contact Monte smith on here, he can sell you a flow tool and tech you how to use it properly as well as put you in the right direction as far as jetting , fuel psi, timing etc.

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Ok cool, I am not looking to set the world on fire here, just a 100 to 150 shot. What about the guys that buy a kit and throw it on without messing with timing?

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they get lucky LOL LOL

WHat i would do is get the car running well on motor....Whatever timing you get it to run well on, id retard it 6 degrees for 100, 8 for a 150. Then READ THE PLUGS....The best thing for you as a beginner is get in touch with Monte Smith, Get the kit from him, and a flow tool, Thats the best advice i can give you

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